Ok, so I know that I'm supposed to search through old threads to find out this information, but I haven't been able to find what I'm looking for.

Does anyone know any links for CJ 5.0 swap write ups? I used to have a couple but I can't seem to find them. Plus, anyone done it with an NP435 and D300? What are your horror stories from it?

Looking into it for a winter project. :D

1990 mustang 5.0\ NP435\ Dana 300 Going in my heep.

Use the M.O.R.E motor mounts.
Advanced adapters tranny xfercase adapter is easy.

Mid eighties f-250s have the bellhousing you want. Look for the housing with the Hydro clutch bracket and slave cylinder on it. Grab all this stuff and you will be happy.

I screwed up and grabbed the bracket the slave but left the housing because I figured I could use one of the one I had.
I'm stimm kicking myself in the ass for not grabbing that bellhousing. I have been unable to find one lately:(

Heres a cool link for ya http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/waterman/waterman.cfm

Talk to sillyneck he did a really clean swap. I am currently in the middle of mine. I have an 89 5.0 with a ford t-18 and a 300. After putting it all to gether and getting it in the jeep I am really impressed on how short the overall length is. All I have left to do is buy a harness and wire it all up. Good luck

Originally posted by Bgcj5
Talk to sillyneck he did a really clean swap. I am currently in the middle of mine. I have an 89 5.0 with a ford t-18 and a 300. After putting it all to gether and getting it in the jeep I am really impressed on how short the overall length is. All I have left to do is buy a harness and wire it all up. Good luck

That's a good thing, except for my Tom Woods front and rear driveshafts.... ;) Hope I can still use them.

My 258 is going, and I want to put in something better. I alredy have a NP435 in there, so I figured a 5.0 swap just made sense.

I think with the CJ, you can use factory driver's-side motor mounts on both sides and bolt the 5.0 right in. Easy as pie. Caveat: I've heard that this works, but never seen it in person.

As far as reusing your dshafts goes, don't hold your breath :p. OTOH, shortening or lengthening shafts is easy for driveline shops to do. Won't cost you more than $100 each, which is peanuts compared to the cost of the whole project...:eek:

You're going to need to swap in a F-series bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, and NP435 input shaft, but aside from that you should be able to keep your tranny. The NP435 will be a LOT more fun to drive with the 5.0 than with the 258!

Have fun,
Chris

I run an NP435 behind a 5.0 HO, coupled to an Atlas,(same input as D300). Its all pretty simple but you will need an AA adapter for the tranny to T case. It comes with the adapter and a new main shaft( About $400). The rest of the stuff, is just, your basic decision making and problem solving.

I am running the same in my 2A. If you can try and get a 91-93 motor. Those motors came with the mass air sensor which are suppose to be the best set up out of all the years. Make sure you get the Probst Ford Fuel injection book.

I am going to try and run a annular throw out bearing in mine instead of the standard throw out bearing and arm. Everything that I have researched tells me that it should fit in just fine. I just need to go down and get the parts to test out my therory.

As far as web sites I do not have any but there is a company in San Jose, CA that specializes in 5.0 change overs. They usually put NV4500's behind them but they were really helpful when I talked to them about clutch stuff. The company name is Z&M Conversions and thier number is 408-274-6972.

You were actually able to talk to Z and M

I could never get ahold of them and when I finally did they didn't want to help at all.

I talked to them and the first thing I told them was that I was not going to be able to buy a full kit from them because they did not make one for flat fenders. They were willing to sell me individual parts and gave me information on what vehicals thier parts came out of. I was not real impressed this thier motor mount set up. I thought it looked a little weak.

On another note, I have an aluminum bellhousing the fits 5.0 and an NP435 that I am not going to use if anyone wants it. It has the mount for the slave cylinder. If any one is interested I can send a picture. I was planning on e-baying it in a month or so.

Originally posted by Rocktoad
You were actually able to talk to Z and M

I could never get ahold of them and when I finally did they didn't want to help at all.

You have to sound like your buying something when you leave a message. That seemed to be the best tact, when I was trying to get a hold of them.
I heard they were, busy and all, but, after I bought their slave, and master cylinder brackets, I needed some technical clarifications. It would have been easier to personaly talk to God himself, than to get a hold of those guys.

Originally posted by 2manyJPs
If you can try and get a 91-93 motor. Those motors came with the mass air sensor which are suppose to be the best set up out of all the years

90-93 (89-93 CA), were all mass air equipt, and basicly the same engine.
The 89, automatic, is regaurded by many gearheads, as the computer of choice for strongest power curve. The 93 Cobra computer is also a well regaurded choice.
If you get an older speed density set up, there are many affordable routes to go to convert them to a mass air set up. Ford Racing is one option, but I have cheaper sources.
The newer 5.0 above 93, have a different harness, use different maniflods, and dont have forged pistons, but they are still a very viable option.
It is a very good choice for a Jeep engine. They are light, reliable, strong, and fuel efficient if driven sensibly, they are even affordably priced.
I used the MORE CJ Engine mounts, when I did my YJ swap. I also wasnt impressed with the Z&M mounts.

I am currently running a 93 5.0/AOD/300 combo and I do love the power that these motors produce. I went with the AA motor mounts ans if I had it to do again I would have done a little more research on these I have sheared 5 motor mount bolts of in the block which people I have spoken with atribute that to the AA mounts. Good luck

Originally posted by RockHound
I am currently running a 93 5.0/AOD/300 combo and I do love the power that these motors produce. I went with the AA motor mounts ans if I had it to do again I would have done a little more research on these I have sheared 5 motor mount bolts of in the block which people I have spoken with atribute that to the AA mounts. Good luck
Hey RockHound - I'm going to be putting a 5.0 in mine soon. I have been told the AOD would be too long. How long does your rear driveshaft end up being? Did you get a trans/t-case adapter from AA? The 300 is flipped, right?

I've got an '87 5.0 and a '56 CJ3B that is the start to my next project. Did most of you ditch the AC and smog pump or keep it. If you ditched 'em did you run an idler pulley or just a shorter belt. Also, if you lose the smog pump, what effect does that have on the computer if any?? Does it through codes all the time?? Also, is the entire vacumn system blocked off?? Thanks

I got rid of all of the accessories and started over. I am running the 94-95 5.0 water pump which is something like 2 inches shorter than the rest of the reverse direction serpentine water pumps. This let me move the engine that much more forward to have a long rear drive shaft. I then ran a York ac compressor with a serpentine pulley off of a 79 Mustang/Caprice with a 302, and a Chevy style power steering pump with a pulley off of a mid 80's Ford van. On the other side of the motor I got the stock 94-95 alternator bracket and am using a Ford alternator for the time being. I am going to try and get away without running an idler pulley for the smog pump. I have not sized the belt yet so I do not know if I can get enough belt tension with out the idler.

At the back of the block where the smog tub bolts in you can just plug the two holes. There is two ways of doing this. There is a special plug that you can buy that goes in the hole and still has threads in it for bolting thing to the head. That is what is used on the front side of the head where you bolt up your accessories. Or you can get a 5\8 inch bolt I think and just thread that in with a little high temp RTV. If you go to a gun shop you can get a brush for cleaning 12 gauge shot gun barrels and put that in you hand drill to clean the carbon out of the treads in the back of the head.

Originally posted by convertiyota
I've got an '87 5.0 and a '56 CJ3B that is the start to my next project. Did most of you ditch the AC and smog pump or keep it. If you ditched 'em did you run an idler pulley or just a shorter belt. Also, if you lose the smog pump, what effect does that have on the computer if any?? Does it through codes all the time?? Also, is the entire vacumn system blocked off?? Thanks

I have an '87 Mustang GT as my daily driver. I simply bypassed the smog pump with a shorter belt. Had to re-route the belt though, just change the order in which the belt goes on the water pump. It does throw codes, but it did that before since the pump didn't work anyway. Didn't touch the vacumn system at all. HTH

Originally posted by 2manyJPs
At the back of the block where the smog tub bolts in you can just plug the two holes. There is two ways of doing this. There is a special plug that you can buy that goes in the hole and still has threads in it for bolting thing to the head. That is what is used on the front side of the head where you bolt up your accessories. Or you can get a 5\8 inch bolt I think and just thread that in with a little high temp RTV. If you go to a gun shop you can get a brush for cleaning 12 gauge shot gun barrels and put that in you hand drill to clean the carbon out of the treads in the back of the head.

An even easier way is to take the stock tube and fittings, cut the tube off and put the fitting on backwards. This won't allow you to go back to stock without buying a new tube, but if the tube is rusted out anyway, like mine was, no big loss.

Hello,

I noticed alot of 5.0 conversions going on on this board. That's perfect!!! I got my hands on a 74 Bronco for the d44 and the 9" rear. I like the d20. I want to twin stick it but would like to know if anybody has any cheap ideas for low gears? I saw that chris at bc4x4 made his own 203 adapter but has no drawings for duplication. anybody have any ideas or maybe something elsemight be a good idea.

Originally posted by JamesCorbeil
Hello,

I noticed alot of 5.0 conversions going on on this board. That's perfect!!! I got my hands on a 74 Bronco for the d44 and the 9" rear. I like the d20. I want to twin stick it but would like to know if anybody has any cheap ideas for low gears? I saw that chris at bc4x4 made his own 203 adapter but has no drawings for duplication. anybody have any ideas or maybe something elsemight be a good idea.

Jack Obrien gear sets, for the D20 go as low as 4.8, 4.1, 3.7.

W/AMC
I had no problems with the AOD other than onthe first time out to pismo I melted the clutch disks together. The driveshaft actually is longer in the rear and the front had to be shortened by a couple inches. The trans adapter is from Advanced Adapters and I am running Scout II Dana 44s so I did not need to do the trans case flip.
By the way I am in Camarillo just over the hill if you want to come by and check it out first hand. I also have another buddy here that put the same combo in his CJ-7 it also worked great.
Gimme a call 805-383-1166
We will be around this weekend pulling a 304 from a cj5 to prepare for another 5.0
Doug