I just finished bolting in a 69 Cruiser rear end (2 wheel cylinders per side) and a 80 fj55 front end (discs) into my Dads 67 FJ40. I ran the lines but the master cylinder and booster I got for the conversion has too big of a booster to clear the clutch cylinder mounting on the firewall. I think I'm going to have to run a manual master that is happy pushin discs in the front and drums in the rear........Anyone havr any suggestions, preferably a year and make of a vehicle that I can track down at shucks or napa.
Thanks,
Rick.

As much as it pains me to say this get the booster extender from Wardens....
You will not like disks without a booster......

I gotta agree.....run the extender. Another option is to swap the underdash bracketry from the 67 Cruiser for a 74-later cruiser with the booster...it will offset your clutch and brake cylinders differently and necessitate some firewall work, but is another option.

And, just a hope, that you aren't running the 3.73 stock 80 FJ55 gears with the 4.11 stock 69 FJ40 gears?!? Right...I knew you were switching gearsets in the 80 diff for 4.11's.... :D

I run a 74 booster and with 4wheel discs, it's marginal. It was also marginal with the front disc/rear drum setup....I preferred my 77 booster, but unfortunately, it opted to no longer boost....

Warden's adapter/extender is cheaper than a Gym membership....

I have heard that a master cylinder from a '68 F250 works well.
I was going to look into this more for my '65 also so if it works let me know.

Hmmm, food for thought, booster extender huh?
Woody, I put an 83 FJ60 third member into the rear (3:70)
and the front is out of an 1980 FJ55. My Pops uses his for a daily driver and it only sees offroad when he's Huntin and Fishin.
- Rick

WILWOOD MASTER CYLINDER......I WOULDNT WORRY ABOUT THE POWER BRAKES.......THEY ARE TOO INCONSISTANT FOR ME....ENGINE RUNNING THEY WORK GREAT...ENGINE OFF THEY SUCK......I DONT THINK ROADRACE CARS ECTECT THEY STOP FINE......BUT WHAT DO I KNOW.....I GUESS ILL FIND OUT WHEN I SWAP MY MASTER OUT FOR A WILWOOD NEXT MONTH

Went to shucks and picked up a 1967 Ford F250 2wd Master Cylinder and had minimal fuss installing it. The master cleared a stock F-engine carb and stock location for clutch cylinder. After a little trimming of the inner and outer firewall the m/s bolted right up with 2 3/8" bolts. The stock 67 LC pushrod fit the m/s and with about 1/4" adjusted out of the stroke it worked fine. Initial impressions: The fronts have plenty of grab power for the discs but I need to tune the rears to get more pressure. I had to size down the 9/16's fitting to 3/16's for the large cup wich I ran to the front discs. (more volume less pressure) the smaller front cup I ran to the drum rears (more pressure less volume) I might have to install a proportioning valve but so far plenty of stopping power and no grab. I'm going to install the same m/s into my 69 when I do my front D44/ Cruiser hybrid install, it works like a charm.......Shucks was selling the m/s's for $31.95 with a 10 core charge, with all the fittings and lines it came out to 62.50, not bad for a m/s that can handle front and rear discs.
-Rick

Thanks for the report on the F250 Master Cylinder install. I think that is the way I will go also. If any one wants a booster and master cylinder from a '80 mini I have on for sale now.

GLAD TO HEAR EVERYTHING WORKED OUT FOR YA!!!

Thanks guys, BTW I have 2 master cylinders for sale also.....and 84 mini master and booster I was gonna install in my Dads and an 86 mini master and booster I was gonna use for my conversion.... :D I'm gonna to run 5/16's line to my front and rear unions, then drop down to 3/16's for the hard lines to rubber lines unions, I think this will help solve the problem of the rears not getting enough pressure and keep the GM discs in the fronts happy. They run 5/16's to the prop valve for a lot of GM front setups.
I'll let ya know how they push.
-Rick

Cudos go to Lance for giving me the Idea for the manual master, He runs the same setup on his Cruiser. ;)