Just started installing the Redneck Ram and crossover this weekend. Here's what I've got so far.

This is what I started with:

Anyone need to buy a custom sleeved drag link?

No it never saw the street. Yes it allowed me to put it on a trailer and move it around in the yard. :flipoff2:

These are the 3 bolt holes used with the box in the factory position.

Back side of the box. You'll use these 4 bolt holes to mount the box on the frame in the "2 wheel drive location". Basically you're eliminating the plate moving the box back and bolting it back on.

Here's what I got: Steering box rebuild and ported for ram, 1.75" ram.

2" would be stronger, but slower. 1.5" prob not enough for 44's aired down. Hopefully 1.75" ram will be adequate and not too slow.

Heims, mounts, hoses, etc. Got it all for 400.00 (Pirate 4x4 special - check the vendor section). And Matt modified my new pump for free since I sent it in with my box.

I was really happy with how everything looks. I thought he might just paint some boxes (the ones that get reviews) but mine was spotless and had a new coat of paint on it.

Wire wheeled off the frame. I'd never seen a Dodge frame this clean. :flipoff2:

These are the 4 bolt holes you'll use to mount the box. It will be further back on the frame now. I just used two washers - a big and small one for the big hole.

Painted and installed. My truck now has 23 percent paint 77 percent rust if you were keeping track.

I used grade 8 bolts and washers. I also put nylock nuts on the back side of the box where they thread through. That should keep the bolts from loosening up.

From the side. You can compare this to the first picture and see how far it moves the box back.

Used a Ford steering arm. Not sure what it came off. Got it for free from a friend. Here are the markings on it:

Other side:

Installed. I used this arm rather than the 4" drop arm from skyjacker or superlift that most use.

This arm is flatter and with 4" of lift I would probably hit the draglink end with the spring on uptravel since it mounts under the arm.

And this is where it gets interesting:

I knew moving the axle forward 3" and the box back approximately 3" would probably mean I couldn't use high steer arms that mount the tie rod behind the drag link in front of the axle. And that's definately correct. If I used a regular high steer arm the drag link and tie rod would hit each other as the suspension cycles.

Solution: Full hydro is in my future.

Other solution: Use double arm and mount tie rod behind axle. Tie rod behind the axle would work better than in front because I have 6 degree shims in the front that tilt high steer arms down in the front. Would give better clearance behind the axle. Also drilling spring perches off by 1" to move axle foward put the tie rod further up the "smile" of the spring further reducing clearance.

Current solution: I'll be using 1.5 tie rod with 3/8" wall in factory location. Shouldn't bend that - might break the knuckles though.

And yes, the drag link will go right where the crossmember is now. I'll have to trim it for the time being and once my bender comes in I'm going to fab a custom low-profile engine crossmember.

And the 44's will hit the box at full lock. Probably a lot when you figure in side wall "wiggle" I can move my truck side to side about 1.5-2" with 8 lbs in the tires. And it's all sidewall movement. I can even hit the rear of my front springs with the Swampers doing this at full lock.

BTW - I'm running a 69" WMS-WMS Chevy Dana 60 front with 16.5x9.75" Trail Ready's with 4.75" of back spacing.

You'd probably have similar concerns with a 67" WMS-WMS Dodge front D60 and wheels with 3.5" of back spacing.

I don't think I'd run more than 3.5" of backspacing on a 67" wide axle and 44's.

I'll know more once it's on the trail.

It's getting there. I'm trying to get it ready to drive this weekend.

More to come...

Oh, and I almost forgot the tierod ends and draglink.

I'm using an ES2234R and ES2010L on the tie rod.

I'm using an ES2026R and ES2027L on the drag link.

They're all 7/8 x 18 thread.

The 2026/2027 are have more angular capability than the 2234/2010.

This is important as the drag link has to have enough angle to handle the drop/compression in the suspension. You could probably run the 2234 and 2010 as drag link ends, but you'd need to put a bend in the tube to take some of the angle off the ends.

Here's the difference in angular capability between the two:

Stop posting this stuff!!! Your making me want to go out and get mine going :flipoff2:

Anyone know the details on the new cali smog laws? 30 years on a 77 would mean 2006 right? Also, would it have to be smogged after it got off the non-op?

Originally posted by PJTPW
And this is where it gets interesting:

I knew moving the axle forward 3" and the box back approximately 3" would probably mean I couldn't use high steer arms that mount the tie rod behind the drag link in front of the axle. And that's definately correct. If I used a regular high steer arm the drag link and tie rod would hit each other as the suspension cycles.

Solution: Full hydro is in my future.

Other solution: Use double arm and mount tie rod behind axle. Tie rod behind the axle would work better than in front because I have 6 degree shims in the front that tilt high steer arms down in the front. Would give better clearance behind the axle. Also drilling spring perches off by 1" to move axle foward put the tie rod further up the "smile" of the spring further reducing clearance.

Current solution: I'll be using 1.5 tie rod with 3/8" wall in factory location. Shouldn't bend that - might break the knuckles though.

And yes, the drag link will go right where the crossmember is now. I'll have to trim it for the time being and once my bender comes in I'm going to fab a custom low-profile engine crossmember.

What is up with the block under the shim?

Originally posted by GRMhick


What is up with the block under the shim?

That's actually the spring perch. I had to fab one because it had been cut off my D60. It's 1/2 plate top with 3/8 thick sides. It's welded up inside and out.

Ryan

Originally posted by PJTPW


..........Solution: Full hydro is in my future.............





:D

Made some more progress.

Here's the steering arm I'm using. A buddy burned it out of 1.75" plate on a flame table. Yeah, it's overkill, but it was free.

Another:

I didn't have it machined for tapered nuts. It's a press fit with the grade 8's and has 0 play in it. With the ram assist it should be fine.

Mounted on the knuckle.

I used 1.25" tube with .25" wall for the drag link and tapped it directly. One side is 7/8x18 RH and one side is 7/8x18 LH.

The factory crossmember is in the way when running 4" of lift and the front axle 3" forward.

So I cut the bottom off of the front of it. I'll be fabbing a low-profile crossmember out of tube.

The drag link would probably even hit the crossmember on compression since I'm running a flatter Ford pitman arm. I could run a 4" drop arm and probably be ok on the crossmember clearance. But, then I might hit the pitman arm with the spring on uptravel. Things get tight fast on a short lift.

I also decided not to bend the draglink for clearance because it wouldn't be as strong. It's pretty flat anyway.

Passenger's side:

Spring to pitman arm clearance. I think it's about 4".

Another of crossmember clearance.

At ride height:

And now if I could just get the temperature to warm up.

I'm trying to get this wrapped up this weekend hopefully.

Ryan

Looking really good. I am glad you listed those part numbers. I was in Advance tonight trying to find those exact ends.

Can't wait to see it finished.

What all did they do to your power steering pump?

Looks great. I just picked up my 2"ram yesterday. Going to tap the box this weekend !

Originally posted by Trailduster79
Looking really good. I am glad you listed those part numbers. I was in Advance tonight trying to find those exact ends.

Can't wait to see it finished.

What all did they do to your power steering pump?

Matt at West Texas Offroad drilled out the flow piston for increased flow. He'll do it for free if you send your pump in with the box. He's also got the how to article here: http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

Can you mesure and tell me how far above your casting line the top hole is ? I've never seen on taped above the cast line like that.
Any pics with it mounted and the lines installed ?

Thanks, Todd

It will probably be tomorrow before I can get a picture if it.

When I get one I'll get you some exact measurements with pictures.

Ryan

right on ryan.:bounce: :bounce2:

The top port is exactly 3" from its centerline to the end of the box.

The bottom of the fitting is exactly 1" above the casting line. So add 1/2 the diameter of the fitting to 1" to determine where to drill the hole.

I looked at a Chevy box from West Texas Offroad today and it was tapped in the exact same spots as mine.

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If you need hose routing or anything else let me know.

Ryan

7/8x18 LH -- Thats an oddball tap, correct??? Seems I was looking for that size once, and came up with nothing...

As I said before, this is a nice buildup, makes me wanna build something! NOW!!!

Thanks
-Marty

PS:

what's this??? The green thing?? I can't tell, and curiosity's killing me!! :D

http://home.mchsi.com/~marty61052/bigassdodge.jpg

Thanks for the pics Ryan. After taking my box apart and looking at it, it makes no difference if you tap it above or below the casting line.
Putting it above might keep it out of the way of logs an such is all I could see.

Originally posted by DaHateTank


PS:

what's this??? The green thing?? I can't tell, and curiosity's killing me!! :D

http://home.mchsi.com/~marty61052/bigassdodge.jpg


'69 barracuda?

It's a Camaro. Think a '68 SS.
I know it's got about a 450 hp motor.

My truck is over at a friends until I get the steering finished.

I don't know if the 7/8 x 18 is an odd ball or not. A buddy let me use the taps and tapered reamer for free

Ryan

DOOHHHH!!!!!!!!................................... ........:emb2:

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
DOOHHHH!!!!!!!!................................... ........:emb2:

Don't sweat that, those were the same two choices I was thinking (1st gen 'cuda, or 67-69 Camaro) and Ive been screwin' with Mopeys since the mid 80s. Hard-pressed to tell the difference from that angle, and what's shown in the pic.

In fact, I was thinkin' Camaro, but given the fact that he has a Dodge truck...

------------------------------

As for the tap:

/consults wholesale tool catalog/ ...no show...right hand one is listed. IIRC, thats a $200 plus tap. (right hand one is $24)

Good deal that someone you know had one. Hope you didn't ***** it up, huh?? :D

-Marty

Originally posted by PJTPW
The drag link would probably even hit the crossmember on compression since I'm running a flatter Ford pitman arm. I could run a 4" drop arm and probably be ok on the crossmember clearance. But, then I might hit the pitman arm with the spring on uptravel. Things get tight fast on a short lift.

I also decided not to bend the draglink for clearance because it wouldn't be as strong. It's pretty flat anyway.

I'm also running that pitman arm and can verify that with a straight draglink it will hit your crossmember on compression; also that the arms with much drop will hit the springs at full stuff. One possibility is larger bumpstops, but this wasn't very appealing. My solution was to bend a draglink from 1.5" roundstock - I don't believe that it'll get bent unintentionally, and it was also a factor of five cheaper than the DOM tube. Also made the tierod of this material; while I *might* bend this tierod accidentally it's mounted high on the Dodge knuckles so less likely to be hit, and the perceived strength gains from having most of the steering force directed through the thicker parts of the knuckle castings made it seem like a good approach for mine. Unfortunately it does make the 7/8" ends look rather small...

Lloyd, what is the application on the Ford pitman arm? I got it out of a stack of arms and wasn't sure what it originally came on.

Ryan

Mine came from a pickup bed filled with pitman arms, drag links, steering boxes, etc so I can't help ID the factory application.

Originally posted by PJTPW
And this is where it gets interesting:

I knew moving the axle forward 3" and the box back approximately 3" would probably mean I couldn't use high steer arms that mount the tie rod behind the drag link in front of the axle. And that's definately correct. If I used a regular high steer arm the drag link and tie rod would hit each other as the suspension cycles.

Solution: Full hydro is in my future.

Other solution: Use double arm and mount tie rod behind axle. Tie rod behind the axle would work better than in front because I have 6 degree shims in the front that tilt high steer arms down in the front. Would give better clearance behind the axle. Also drilling spring perches off by 1" to move axle foward put the tie rod further up the "smile" of the spring further reducing clearance.

Current solution: I'll be using 1.5 tie rod with 3/8" wall in factory location. Shouldn't bend that - might break the knuckles though.

And yes, the drag link will go right where the crossmember is now. I'll have to trim it for the time being and once my bender comes in I'm going to fab a custom low-profile engine crossmember.

One other possibility:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Steering/Steering_Research/H8mondaysHySteer.jpg

I had to think about this one pretty hard before rejecting it on mine.

......or use the ford box that uses the short sector shaft and forward facing pitman arm.:beer:

Originally posted by DaHateTank


Don't sweat that, those were the same two choices I was thinking (1st gen 'cuda, or 67-69 Camaro) and Ive been screwin' with Mopeys since the mid 80s. Hard-pressed to tell the difference from that angle, and what's shown in the pic.

In fact, I was thinkin' Camaro, but given the fact that he has a Dodge truck...

-Marty

i was thinkin the 69 'cuda because of the hump in the hood and the rectangular marker light.

i have the REAL 1st gen barracuda(1964) in the driveway.:D

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
...i have the REAL 1st gen barracuda(1964) in the driveway.:D

You mean a Valiant??? :D

seriously, my bad, had '1st gen' (my chevy junk, '68 camaro) on the brain, I guess!!

-Marty

Just got my HD tie rod from Offroad Design today. Now I can get the ram installed.

1.5" x .375" wall DOM

I'm sure I just made the tie rod ends the weak links.

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3

I should have it finished up later today.

Here's what I did to modify the steering shaft as it will be too long once the box is moved back to the 2 wheel drive (crossover) location:

I didn't get a shot of it apart, but you have to push in the sides of a big snap ring and remove the inside parts of the steering joint. Mine was in almost new condition, so I just cleaned out the inside of it and repacked it with grease. I also drilled and tapped it for a grease zirk.

I didn't have an actual rebuild kit for the joint, which would come with a new rubber boot so I put one big washer in under the snap ring. Make sure the hole is oversized, so the shaft can move freely.

Then I put another washer that slid over the shaft on top of the bottom washer. I put 2 O-rings on the shaft to keep the washers in place and seal the unit.

It's not as good as a rebuild kit, but it was free.

BTW there is a write up on ramchargercentral.com on the steering joint rebuild.

Then I cut the rag joint ends off the steering column shaft and the box shaft.

And wouldn't you know it, Dodge had planned on me doing this 25 years later because the box shaft fits tightly inside the column side shaft.

No more worries about clearing the Ford shock tower.

This was temporary to move it around the yard.

What I ended up doing was running a grade 8 bolt through one set of holes and I cut it off even with the shaft. Then I threaded in about .375" of a grade 8 bolt on the other two holes until they hit the first bolt and then cut them off even with the shaft too.

After doing this, I welded the grade 8 bolts to the shaft where they were exposed. Then I ran a weld bead with my MIG all the way around the area where the two shafts meet.

There is approximately 1-1.5" of small shaft inside the bigger shaft.

There is no way it will ever come loose.

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
......or use the ford box that uses the short sector shaft and forward facing pitman arm.:beer:

or, >'77 4wd dodge boxes turn the oppisite direction.... so same effect, and it bolts up.

Finally got the steering finished this past weekend.

Pulled the factory steering arm off and replaced it with the king pin cap from the other side.

The bolts are 1/2" fine thread BTW.

If you don't have stud remover you can weld some 1/2 fine thread nuts to the bolts to get them out. Then you can grind off the welds, and the original stud and nut are reuseable.

And now I've got a TA cover for sell since the 1.5" tie rod wouldn't clear the cover when turned. It's allways something.:flipoff2:

Luckily I had one of these laying around.

These Crane covers are BEEFY!

To give the steering system a little more capacity for the ram I did this:

That was the filler neck from an extra pump reservoir.

Then I put it in a 1.5" piece of fuel filler hose. Fuel filler hose is rated for gasoline and should stand up to the ATF I'm using in the steering system. Normal radiator hose is not rated for this and would probably get eaten by the ATF.

I used a 10" piece of hose and clamped it to the top of the reservoir and used the cap on the new end.

Installed and finished. And no I didn't shoot someone under the front of my truck. :flipoff2:

The steering will turn the 44's with 6 lbs of air, on pavement, with the truck sitting still with very little effort.

I used a 1.75" ram vs. a 2" ram because the bigger ram reacts slower to steering input.

I cruised around some and did some pretty quick turns and the 1.75" ram seems a lot faster than the 2" rams I've had experience with.

It's definately got more than enough power to turn the 44's in the mid single digits of air pressure. Having the pump modded to increase flow helped too I'm sure.

The steering is done finally. On to the fuel system (TBI fuel injection:) )

Ryan

I'm courious to see how the fuel filler hose holds up. If It works and doesn't soften I'll be all over that like stink on a monkey. I looked for some large hydrolic line, ya know something like filler line for a tractor or log splitter or something but could only find high-pressure internally braided stuff for giant rams on tractors. A hose clamp wouldn't really hold it in place.