I have an '82 CJ7 with a front Dana 44/Chevy rotors & calipers. Dana 60 with 10" drum brakes rear. Lemme just say the brakes SUCK!!
At a stop, I have to pump the brakes once before they function. Now, the brakes pull to the driver's side, and the rears do not work at all.
About 6 wks ago, on the trail, I broke a brake line. Vice gripped the bad one off, went home with 1 brake working. IT WORKED BEAUTIFUL! Granted it pulled to one side, but No pumping, just freakin' brakes.
Does that mean the '82 Jeep master cylinder is too small for the Chevy calipers? How do I combat that without severe modification?
The brake pads, master, booster, calipers, rotors are all new.

Please HELP!!

Thanks

I have a waggy 44's in my YJ with the OEM master cylinder & booster and the brakes work fine. The brakes are like 10-11" width on both ends.

You said your brakes worked beautiful before you broke a line....
So that would indicate to me - your master Cylinder & booster are fine unless you damaged that somehow when you broke the line.

Did you have any trouble bleeding the brakes after replacing that one broken line?? Did you bleed all 4 wheels??

Do you have any small leaks??

I just did an axle swap on my 86 CJ. I used extended lines in the front and a new extended line in the back. I also had to install new hardlines on the axles. The axles are a D44 waggy front and a D44 Scout II rear. Front rotors are Ford w/ Chevy calipers. I had to bled the brakes twice in order to get all the air out. The first time, the fluid was clear and stopped bubbling, then when out on the road I had similar symptoms. So I did it again, more air came out and the brakes firmed up. I say bled them again.

I have 81 cj-8 with a chevy d44 in the front and a scout d44 rear. disk all aroung and had to put in a corvette master cyld. I now have teeth marks in the roll bar from the stoping power. Its fun when the wife's giving me shit to give them a little tap and watch her head smack the cage.:rolleyes:
Kory

The pulling to one side is likely an adjustment at the brake, check your springs and pads to make sure they are working properly and wearing the pads evenly. The pumping could mean leaking within the mc piston bore area and not necessarily the wrong mc. I had a pin hole leak and fluid was getting past the piston and had to pump it up like you said. Try this. Pump up the brakes like 10 times and then just hold the brake down with steady firm pressure. Hold it for a couple minutes. If it starts to fade, you need a new mc.

I have to pump mine to work good. I have a Ford 60 and HP44. It will stop with only one pump (pretty good), but I have to put it to the floor. On the second pump, it will stop GOOD. My mc is stock, but I don't know how that is different from a CJ, I've never paid attention. I just always figured the dual piston calipers were too big for the mc, and I would worry about it at rear disc time.:confused:

Your MC sounds like it is not pushing enough volume. After I put D44s front and rear on my YJ the brakes would almost go to the floor before stopping. I swapped in Ford E-350 MC and I have all kinds of pedal now, even after I swapped in the 60 rear.
You might try adjusting your rear pads first and bleeding it once more, but my money is an a bigger MC. Don't know if the E-350 MC will fit a CJ.

Bled 'em again, and it's still the same ol' crappy brakes. Must be the MC, huh? Any suggestions on what will fit my stock booster, or do I have to change it all?

Thanks for all the posts and help....:confused:

I have a chevy 44 in front and Jeep 44 in rear. No 4 wheel disc as of yet. I put a 79 Firbird MC on my 85 Cj. I did by the bracket that Tri-County sell to change the angle of the pedle. The set up worked great until I added the 37 and Beadlocks now I don't seem to have enough stopping power. I want disc in rear I think that will make me stop much better. What about that Navajo Brakes Company?? Did you try them. Just a thought. I am too cheap... If I can't get it to stop after 4 wheel disc I may have to go there road.

I have stock brakes and i have to pump mine. Drum brakes suck mine won't stop leaking i've replaced everything in them. Gonna convert over to disc brakes in the rear.

Search under '68 vette master cylinder. I run one and it stops on a dime. Cheap too.

Rember to always tap the calipers with a rubber mallet when bleeding, alot of times the air bubbles will adher to the calipers..

I pressure bleed mine and I have no problems locking up 4 wheel disc chevy 3/4 ton brakes

Did you bled the front first and then the back, and then go back to the front. This is how the cj manual says to do it that I have and this is how I have done it with no problem, has to do with the proportioning valve. This is not like the standard back to front... just a thought. Other than that it must be a leak, you should not have to pump the peddle to stop, if you have to pump, this can only be air in the system. If you need more power, go to a better MC or bigger booster. :)