I searched and didn't find anything that directly pertains to this, so here goes: What clutch should I run (actually a CJ7) with my high HP/crawling setup? I have a 334 bought from a PBB member (305 block)--only thing stock is the block--with near 400 hp below 2000 rpm. Got it for a great deal, and it was over 500 dollars less than my AMC 401 woulda cost to rebuild. Behind it will be an SM465, NP205, NP203 (doubler obviously) with 38.5's. I read centerforces kinda suck and will wear out fast if slipped, yet on the other hand stock clutches won't be strong enough. What options are there? For a good price? It will probably see about 6000 street miles/year to and from Tellico and other locations, including cruising the mall :flipoff2: Thanks for the help, and if I missed something while searching I apologize in advance!

For crawling you will be theoretically at low RPM's so a centerforce will not work. It's for high RPM's.
A stock clutch will work, just get the diaphragm style and the roller bearing pilot bushing.
You can also get the 3puck clutch in ceramic, kevlar or metalic but that would be very harsh, since slippage is almost non existing.
I saw those 3 puck clutches a couple of days ago when browsing somewhere, if no one post them up before I find the link I will post it here.
:D
IceMan

Thanks for the reply. I don't think a stock type clutch will be able to withstand that much torque, will it? It kind of will have to be a compromise "renaissance clutch" because it will see a fair bit of street/highway driving since it is not going to be trailered.

I did a search on this a while ago and the vast majority said to use a LuK ProGold clutch. I have one ordered and when i get the truck goin i can say how good it is. LuK also mak a ceramettalic clutch that is ceramic and acts like an on off switch if you like that. Most of the people who had centreforces said they were junk anyways and switched to LuK and liked them.

Can you fit a 12" truck clutch?

I had the centerforce 2 and thought it was a great clutch. the dual friction was a sort of "on/off" clutch. but the 2 lets you feather the clutch. went on a few runs w/ some manuals and they all smelled like burnning clutch at the end and mine was fine.

I am sure I could run a 12" clutch... my flywheel has about 13" diameter. I'll look into the LuK. If they have a 12", should I go with that? While on the subject, 2 newbie questions: If my flywheel is rusted from sitting out, the only option is to have it resurfaced, right? Also, the front bearing retainer has surface rust. If I spin my old throwout bearing (also rusted) around it enough to polish off the rust and get it nice and smooth should it be OK to use? I'm getting a new throwout bearing. Thanks all for the help.

I found a 12" LuK standard clutch for chevy trucks. Would it hold up OK? It is an absolute steal, so I think I am going to buy it anyway and if it goes soon I'll just get a different one.

EDIT: Found a good deal on a pro gold through dialaclutch, so I think I'll just go with that. No reason to half-ass it now...

try and emory the rust off
centerforce is a gimic
if you must spend $$ on a clutch get a Ram or McLeod
surface area is king when it comes to clutches