I was just pondering on putting a solid axle under a 1990 S10. I would like to keep the vehicle as low as possible. What is the minimum lift that I would need to convert the front to a solid axle? I'm not a rock crawler so super flex is not necessary. I saw one SFA conversion and the vehicle looked to be sporting 8" of lift over OEM height, then add the height gain from the larger tires and it seemed like a very high center of gravity. Too high for me since this project would be a daily driver.

Walter

If you don't want to go taller, and it is a daily driver, you have to ask yourself if you really want to go thru the hassle and expense of an SFA if you aren't gonna wheel it. Sounds to me like you aren't that into wheeling. If you could find one of Rancho's three inch suspension kits around somewhere, I think you would be more than happy with that. I had one on my 88 S10 and absolutly loved it till I found out that IFS is chit for any of the wheelin I liked to do.


To answer your question, most guys are getting away with 2" YJ lift springs to fit 33's.

The springs that some of us are using are combined sets of s10 rear springs. Another friend of mine used rear Dakota springs as the base pack to use on the front of his. If you really don't want that much lift, i'm sure you could try running just stock dakota or s10 springs and see how much it lifts it and compromise in the rear. I'm guessing by just using stock springs you're gonna get around 3 inches of lift, but then again, your springs will be flat at normal ride stance. But like fyrman said...... Think about if it's really worth it. It's alot of money, time, and some headaches are involved. Good luck in whatever you do. And let us know if we can help.

I belive the smallest lift is like 5 or 5.5"s . Thats what petersons was when they did there SFA conv. on the s10.

Could you, say, use a dana 30 and keep it spring under when swapping in the solid axle? I mean if you really want a solid axle up front.

the min height would be 5" and that is doing an axle under, with leaf springs.
However, if you wanted a lower lift you could research coil springs or get some leaf springs with less arch, but the springs would have to be very rigged to pervent axle wrap. just remember the more rigged your springs are the less flex you will have.
:rasta: :beer:

Originally posted by MudShovel
Could you, say, use a dana 30 and keep it spring under when swapping in the solid axle? I mean if you really want a solid axle up front.


You can use any axle you want to swap in place of IFS, IF you make your own brakets and do your own steering.

The way I remember the ORU kit coming, was $750 for just the mounting bolts, brackets, and instructions just to hang the axle. That gives you nothing to swap steering, you have to use a specific axle, and you have to go buy the damned axle to begin with. That is why I would say to go and buy a junk truck for what ever it costs and swap it all out. I'm not saying that the kit isn't worth it to some people, just saying it wouldn't be worth it to me.

The ORU kit uses either a Dana 44 or a Dana 60. I would imagine that would have to be from a specific vehicle to have their brackets work correctly. Stagewest used to make a kit for S10's. They used a Dana 30. But, a kit does me no good if I wanna run Dana 60's on an S10. See where some of us get stuck in a pickle?

Just so you are aware (cause I still can't figure out why you would do a swap with no lift) Your on-road manners will not be the same, of course, off-road manners will be different also, tires, drivelines, brakelines, everything under the truck will have to be addressed. Just take into concideration all of this before you dive in and never wheel it.

I would say buy a shackle reversal front crossmember for a CJ or YJ... I think that which jeeps they're for?? All ready prebuilt and only $229. I paid $150 for a set of s-10 springs, and 3.73 D30 wrangler axle is a couple of hundred, besure to get all the steering stuff. A cherokee pitman arm fit my steering box to the T.

Mount your front mount and shackles real low to keep the spring under the axle, but be sure to check for axle to frame clearance. I welded "pads" to the inside of the frame just ahead of the trans x-member. I've got about 5" of lift over a stock ZR2 with just the lift, another 2" of tire over a ZR2, and a 2" body lift, w/NO sway bars, and I manage pretty well. My front tires are 4" total wider and my rear tires are 8" wider than the ZR2 stock, that helps quite a bit.

My number is 408-685-6726 if you have any questions.