why do the toyota arms, go downwards and out on an angle?

do the high steers, go upwards and out at an angle?
will hi-steer arms that simply go up and straight out have an effect on the handling?

if not, then why do toyota have bends in the arms?
if it will affect toe-in toe out, then do allpros arms go up and out?

does anyone know what im talking about?
or am i :smokin: the good shit?

also, how common is it for a flipped arm to snap the bolts?

I'm not sure about your other question but the reason the arm is "bent out" some, is due to the fact that the inside wheel has a smaller radius to turn so the arms being bent in causes the inside wheel to turn a little bit more than the outside wheel if you don't believe me take a string tie it to two pencils and try it.

the reason Toyota ( stock ) steering arms bend out towards the rim is the ackerman angle ( the bit about the string and pencils )
essentially the tie rod attachment point "should" be in an imaginary line with the center of the rear axle....... High steering arms usually move the tie rod attachment point slightly inward to avoid interference problems with large tires , and usually larger than stock tie rod ends..........is the ackerman angle perfect? no.
does toyota use the same steering arms on thier trucks regardless of wheelbase? yup. with all the other changes in the suspension , scrub radius etc.........?

thanks!! this is what i was after!!

so the steering arms, being bent out, is for the ackerman angle, i wqs told this, but had forgotten the name, and knew it had something to do with tracing an imaginary line down the arms to the centre of the rear diff!

do you guys think straight high steering arms would not have much affect on the handling at all?

Check out my website at www.lavacrawlers.com and in the garage section under tonka toy, I think I have a picture of my double steering arm. If I don't (haven't looked in a while) I can email you a picture. I basically took a stock right hand steering arm, and cut the bearing face off, and welded it upside down on the stock right steering arm which gives me a straight drag link, and straight tie rod. I have yet to hit the tie rod on anything since it is directly in line with the axle. With a SOA and a Saginaw conversion, the double steering arm (which cost me $40) works great.

Sean

For my high steer arms I got left and right hand original arms. Cut the bearing mounts off both of them. I got longer studs for the knuckles bolted the bottom/standard arms down then slipped the high steer arms on upside down complete with cones then bolted them on. I put the left hand one on the right and the right hand one on the left. I had to shorten my tie rod up too. My tie rod was already bent so I adjusted the rod so the bend went downwards giving a better angle on the tie rod end.

I am going to swap the the two high steer arms over, left to right, to give some more clearance on the tyres and it will also flatten the angle of the tie rod ends. I will just have to shorten up the tie rod/ make a new one.

Has anyone else just got longer studs for the knuckles instead of milling and welding the arms together?

did mine the same way mick, went longer studs and clamped the 2 together, no welding

Originally posted by sikfj40
did mine the same way mick, went longer studs and clamped the 2 together, no welding

more leverage, from the additional height
shouldnt snap, but i have heard of it happening

hey mick, send me pics of your setup!!

if i email ya, can ya explain what you're sayin there! cause im at work, and dont like using my brain, and what you said sounds like it requires thought