yesterday i put my new shackles on (thanks fc187) and while i was at it i flipped my rear springs. i didnt mesure the wheelbase before but after the flip it is at 92 inches. now all i need is a drive shaft and i will have it back driving. and yes it is sitting on the ground not the lift.
<STRONG><IMG width=550 height=364 SRC="http://auburnextremeracing.com/drivers/justin/temp_j/Aug08$12.jpg"></STRONG>

[ 08-09-2001: Message edited by: 71-Cruiser ]

Now you need to cut your rear fenders, cause it looks funny. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> 92" does'nt sound right, it shoud be more like 93.5" unless you have a shackle reversal that you mounted the front hangers flush with the end of the frame, in which you'd have lost near 2" of wheel base.

Jeff

Cut those fenders and get BIGGER tires!! <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> Looks killer!! nice Cruiser. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

nope no shackle reversal. My mesurement may be off a little. as far as cutting the fenders goes i plan on doing it soon. Is there any problem with removing the fuel vapor canaster from the right rear wheel well when i cut the fenders?

Where did you get the soft top, brand, etc? Is the lift a SO? Looks rear nice just stiin there.

the top is a BestTop. it was on the truck when i bought it. it has 1 zipper left that still works but it is rarely on. The lift is 5 inch Alcans SUA with fc187 built shackles.

looks good! <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

i off set drilled my center pin an inch n the rear but i may just flip the springs too and cut soem more, my wheel base is getting damn near 100, im liking it! jiMMy FJNOTCJ

Is there a web site out there that details how to accomplish the task you just did?

My current drive shaft is a little too long so this spring flip would work out perfect for me.

Thanks

Originally posted by Pozi:
<STRONG>Is there a web site out there that details how to accomplish the task you just did?

My current drive shaft is a little too long so this spring flip would work out perfect for me.

Thanks</STRONG>

Little too long? <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> Do you have the springs reversed already? If you dont and you reverse the springs it will make you longer not shorter. If you already have the springs reversed and want to make it back to stock all you do is take the spring off and put it back on with the long side of the spring towards the back. Watch out though, you will need a new driveline.

Did you just turn the springs around and re-install, or did you flip the military wrap around and drill a spring?
I like the pic, it really gives you an idea of how far the axle gets moved back when you look at it with un-cut fenders.

Originally posted by Erik Dlux:
<STRONG>Little too long? <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> Do you have the springs reversed already? If you dont and you reverse the springs it will make you longer not shorter. If you already have the springs reversed and want to make it back to stock all you do is take the spring off and put it back on with the long side of the spring towards the back. Watch out though, you will need a new driveline.</STRONG>

Well actually when I was a lot younger and not so wise I installed my Chev 327 and 4sp trans/xfer (previously 3sp) which I made the measurement for the driveline I had changed too long. DOH!

Thus by reversing the springs I'm hoping my long driveline will be perfect.

What is necessary in doing such? Is it just like reversing the fronts when doing the shackle reversal?

Originally posted by Pozi:
<STRONG>Well actually when I was a lot younger and not so wise I installed my Chev 327 and 4sp trans/xfer (previously 3sp) which I made the measurement for the driveline I had changed too long. DOH!

Thus by reversing the springs I'm hoping my long driveline will be perfect.

What is necessary in doing such? Is it just like reversing the fronts when doing the shackle reversal?</STRONG>

One side of the spring is longer then the other. You dont need to change the spring mounts or anything serious. All you do is take the spring off and put it on the reverse way. Some guys will take the pack apart and flip the top leaf and keep the rest the same way. Atleast thats how I understand it. I flipped mine without doing that and I am doing fine so far.

I just removed them and flipped them so now my military wrap is on the shackle end. It is only a problem if you break a main leef in my understanding.

try driving it.you will have more bounce than a basketball,better to leave it the way it was.

Originally posted by jsh:
<STRONG>try driving it.you will have more bounce than a basketball,better to leave it the way it was.</STRONG>

<IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> I dont have that problem

i don't have any bounce, just spring wrap, buy i'm running soa with the military clamps loosened all the way.

Originally posted by jsh:
<STRONG>try driving it.you will have more bounce than a basketball,better to leave it the way it was.</STRONG>

it does bounce but only becaus i have no shocks front or rear.

i got my rear drive shaft back so she is back in working order. now i need to buy some shocks and get a CV drive shaft for the front and i will be good to go. At least for a little while.

I know this is an old subject but I was just doing the rear spring swap on my right and ran into a couple problems I was hoping some of you that have done this can help me out with.

1 - The flexi brake line is to short for the axle to be moved back. Is it as easy as ordering a longer brake line? Sources?

2 - After you moved the axle back did the shocks mount up in the original locations? It seems to me that the mounting for the shock should be moved to the rear of the cross member rather than the front.

1) yes the rear brake hose has to be changed. Go to your local parts store and they should be able to cross refrence your hose to a longer one with the same fittings.

2) I curently dont have any shocks at all so it wasnt a problem for me but when i get mine i plan on relocating the top mounts to the rear of the cross member.

One side of the spring is longer then the other. You dont need to change the spring mounts or anything serious. All you do is take the spring off and put it on the reverse way. Some guys will take the pack apart and flip the top leaf and keep the rest the same way. Atleast thats how I understand it. I flipped mine without doing that and I am doing fine so far.

There is a very good reason for having the second leaf with what is known as the military wrap,AND for using the spring pack as it was designed -- namely with the military wrap on the spring hanger end as opposed to the shackle end. The reason for this is that IF the primary leaf should break, the military wrap leaf will hold the axle onto the frame. If you simply flip the entire spring pack and do not re-drill and put the military wrap on the spring hanger end, AND if you should break the primary leaf, you can say goodbye to your axle. God forbid this should happen on the highway. This is a safety issue, and I urge readers to keep the military wrap leaf where it was designed to be.

As an aside, another consequence, that I think is generally understood is that flipping the rear spring pack puts the longer and hence weaker side of the spring pack on the side that receives all of the torque. This means that in a SOA configuration flipping the spring pack will result in increased axle wrap unless an effective torque bar is used.

Soap box mode for Newbies -- OFF. Now back to your regular programming <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

[ 10-03-2001: Message edited by: Medusa ]

Originally posted by 71-Cruiser:
<STRONG>2) I curently dont have any shocks at all so it wasnt a problem for me but when i get mine i plan on relocating the top mounts to the rear of the cross member.</STRONG>


What is envolved with relocating the top mounts to the rear of the cross-member. It's not like they just unbolt from the cross-member do they?

the easyest thing to to would be cut the tube rotate it and then re-weld it in

Originally posted by 71-Cruiser:
<STRONG>the easyest thing to to would be cut the tube rotate it and then re-weld it in</STRONG>

Hmm, that doesn't seem easier than drilling some holes a little closer in (let's you run longer shocks) and welding a bolt in the hole.

Originally posted by Pozi:
<STRONG>

1 - The flexi brake line is to short for the axle to be moved back. Is it as easy as ordering a longer brake line? Sources?
</STRONG>


I just got done doing this front and rear. What I did was go buy another stock line and hook both up. It actually makes it too long but you can figure that out too. I have heard of people using clutch hoses because they are shorter but I couldnt find one for my application.

Originally posted by Pozi:
<STRONG>
What is envolved with relocating the top mounts to the rear of the cross-member. It's not like they just unbolt from the cross-member do they?</STRONG>


Dont know if it was right or not but I just took some bolts and drilled the holes through. I didnt weld them in or anything else. I really didnt see the need, maybe somebody else has a differnt view?
<IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Erik Dlux:
<STRONG>
Dont know if it was right or not but I just took some bolts and drilled the holes through. I didnt weld them in or anything else. I really didnt see the need, maybe somebody else has a differnt view?
<IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

I did actaully think of drilling new holes and installing new bolts but....

Did you use all thread bolts? These are not as strong as bolts w/o threads running the length of the bolt right? And won't the threads on the bolt chew up the shock bushings faster?

The bolts will chew up the shock bushing! But in almost any new shock box a metal sleeve is included to slip over the bolt threads and keeps this from happening. At least they include sleeves in the 9012's box. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Pozi:
<STRONG>I did actaully think of drilling new holes and installing new bolts but....

Did you use all thread bolts? These are not as strong as bolts w/o threads running the length of the bolt right? And won't the threads on the bolt chew up the shock bushings faster?</STRONG>

Yeah I thought of that. What you can do is get a bolt thats like 6 inches or whatever and they are not threaded until the end. If you find the right size you can cut the threads to the right size and you wont have to deal with treads screwing up the bushing. Just my opinion but I dont think it being weaker is really an issue, and if it was I would just get a grade 8. It seems to work fine no bushing wear and no breaking bolts after 1.5 mths


<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">