OK so here's something I've been thinking about for a few days. I want to run a 700R4 and a ford 205 in rig, and if I can get 10" between the mounting surface on the back of tranny and the front of the TC, I will have equal length driveshafts, which is cool cuz I can have one spare shaft. So either I have to make a 10" adaptor, which isn't a problem as I have access to CNC machine equipment and a machinist friend, or run this setup divorced. I think by the time I subtract the length of the yokes, I would really have any room left for a shaft. So, what about running a 2wd tranny with the stock tailhousing and output shaft with the slip yoke and attaching the U joint from that yoke directly to the input yoke on the 205? Basically no shaft between the two, they would just share one U joint? Hopefully you understand what I mean, not sure a clearer way to describe it. They wouldn't be divorced, just sorta of a trial seperation :D

Wow thats alot of work to keep equal length drive shafts. Do you break many?

Dan

i think it would work if they dont move around...

it would also save $$ in adapters

Originally posted by Dan Dibble
Wow thats alot of work to keep equal length drive shafts. Do you break many?

Dan

Well actually no, it's not alot of work, it's basically no work :flipoff2: If I go the married route, that would be alot of work. I could bolt this set-up together tomorrow if I was sure it would work, and not shake itself to pieces. The beauty of the whole idea is that it is incredibly simple! No, I don't break alot of shafts, actually only 2 in 10 years. This was just a "thinking outside box" idea I had and thought it would be a cool way to adapt the ford 205 to a 700R4 with no adaptors or custom shit.

Cool.:)

Dan

The problem with just one u-joint is that it will only allow angular movement, and not actual displacement. When the frame flexes, the centerline of the trans and t-case shafts will move relitive too each other, and this will probably do bad things to the u-joint, or if nothing else, wear out the bearings faster. Even just a short shaft would make this problem much less signifigant, athough you may still have trouble under extreme flex loading with too short of a shaft.
-John

When the frame flexes,

Unless the frame is stiff .The truck he's talking about will have an exo from front to rear. The last few trucks we've done have had no frame flex . well maybe .01 degrees from front to back. solid mounted there should be no movement.or mounted with UHMW .Like solid mounting but no vibration.
The only promlem I see, is the pain in the ass it would be to replace the u-joint between the t-case and tranny. It would still be easier than splitting a mated set up.

yes the one Ujoint thing works, but is a real Pain in the butt to work on.

Originally posted by ItsaCJ6
yes the one Ujoint thing works, but is a real Pain in the butt to work on.

I'll assume from the way you worded that, you have some experience with this type of set up? or it is your opinion that it will work?

why not us a double cardan joint? it will add a little nit if length over a single joint, but would alow a little more movement and vibe cancelation. just a thought.

-Scott

was just taking about the same thing with my dads willys, if you dont do it, it will be done on his jeep. it does flex ( frame ) but i will run a cardon joint just to suck up some of the vibes. i talked to a drive shaft gooru and he did not like the idea at first but after i explained it to him he did not see to much problems on a slower speed jeep, jason.

samurai's use a slip yoke at the back of the tranny tailshaft and one ujoint at the front of the t-case...

Originally posted by oletater
samurai's use a slip yoke at the back of the tranny tailshaft and one ujoint at the front of the t-case...

Factory samurai' have a jackshaft with 2 u-joints. Some Mazda rotarry conversions into samurai' only use 1 u-joint.