Ok, so i've torn out the inside of the cruiser and cleaned it. Now the problem is the rust i have everywhere. Most of it is shallow surface rust, and i can take it off with the wire wheel. the problem is im on a MAJOR budget and i cant get it dipped or herculiner it or afford to buy POR. so i need to know what kinda of spray primer or rust inhibiting paint i can paint over all this with after its brushed up. dont say to do it right with herculiner or POR cause i simply cant.:( Thanks, Matt:skull:

I've brushed 80% of my rig with a 1:1 ratio of rusty red primer and satin black rustoleum.

A cool chocolate brown coating.

Realy tough and the monochromatic look is really euro trashique!!!!!!!Engine,trans/transfercase, frame,springs, wheels, firewall and bumpers.

Kind of a chocolate covered cherry!!!!:smokin:

You should coat the area with a Rust-Mort or another type of a
rust killer/inhibiter to kill the rust, then prime and paint it.
my .02 :)

I've used por15 before with mixed results and doubt that I will ever again, it seems rustoleum works the best here in the salt belt.
I have had good results with their rusty red oxide primer and topcoats as rugburn has suggested and will continue to use them.

Road salt sucks:mad:
rich

You can buy a POR type rust preventative at any parts store for around $6 a can, its in aereso form. I can't remember the name of it but I've also seen it also at Home Depot, Yardbirds, and automotive paint stores. Is a rust stopper and inhibitor. I have used it and it works great. You must apply it in low humidity days or it takes forever to dry! :skull:

Originally posted by ranger
You can buy a POR type rust preventative at any parts store for around $6 a can, its in aereso form. I can't remember the name of it but I've also seen it also at Home Depot, Yardbirds, and automotive paint stores. Is a rust stopper and inhibitor. I have used it and it works great. You must apply it in low humidity days or it takes forever to dry! :skull:

I don't think that it is quite the same as POR as the more humid it is the faster POR drys. It says its a moisture cured polyurethane in the literature .
It probably works better then POR though.
Now for underbody protection I spray ithem with LPS #3 which is a rust preventative oil coating that sets up to an almost waxy like after it has been sprayed or CorrosionX or ACF 50 which are other anti corrosion oil based coatings that are used in the aviation industry (I get it from work:D )
rich

Underbody bang for the buck stuff is from JC Whitney--13bucks a gallon.

I did my whole 55 with 2 gallons so a 40 should be no problem.

It also absorbs a fair bit of noise like a rhino liner.

Rust mort will only neutralize the surface stuff and not really penetrate to deeper layers unfortunately. Your best bet is to seal it with something that doesnt let air to the rust.

Most peoples problems with POR15 is that they spread it too thin. You need to coat it be4 the previous layer dries so that you get thickness without layering. Layers tend to peel and not stick to one another with POR. The best thing about POR is that its flexible and can take a ding or two and not chip or let in Oxygen.

A tiny can of POR goes a long long way. You would be surprised.

I have used a rust inhibitive chassis black from SEM called rust-shield. It will take a hardener like regular paint, and is $16 a quart. Figure $5 for the hardener (holds up better with the hardener in it, though you don't need it), and $2 for a couple of cheap ass brushes. Pretty tough, cheap, and easy to repair.
You can get it at any auto parts store that carries SEM stuff. Comes in spray cans, too, but they are more expensive in the long run. Comes in other colors,too-not just black.

Originally posted by rabid
I have used a rust inhibitive chassis black from SEM called rust-shield. It will take a hardener like regular paint, and is $16 a quart. Figure $5 for the hardener (holds up better with the hardener in it, though you don't need it), and $2 for a couple of cheap ass brushes. Pretty tough, cheap, and easy to repair.
You can get it at any auto parts store that carries SEM stuff. Comes in spray cans, too, but they are more expensive in the long run. Comes in other colors,too-not just black.
SEM is good stuff (trim paint as well), I used a lot of it for my restoration project it's not the cheapest on the market but then again you really get what you pay for.

Originally posted by MetalMender


I don't think that it is quite the same as POR as the Now for underbody protection I spray ithem with LPS #3 which is a rust preventative oil coating that sets up to an almost waxy like after it has been sprayed or CorrosionX or ACF 50 which are other anti corrosion oil based coatings that are used in the aviation industry (I get it from work:D )
rich

is this stuff like waxoyl? how much does it cost ?

dave

For rust removal, I've had pretty good luck with Muratic Acid. Here is my technique, which works for me but makes a hell of a mess.

1. If the part(s) are oily or have grundge on 'em I start with Paint Thinner. Around here I can get it on special for about $1 per gallon (cheaper than gasoline). I pretty much soak the grundge and then begin dislodging it with old screwdrivers, wasted wire brushes, sticks, or whatever it takes.

2. Once I have the major grundge removed, I wash it down good one more time with pain thinner to remove remaining grease and then start going at it with a wire wheel and brushes to get the thick rust off.

3. I remove the last of the rust with a mixture of Muratic Acid and water. Needless to say, this sh*t's dangerous! Wear eye and skin protection and add the acid to the water to avoid splashing. Use as much acid to water as you feel comfortable with (usually about 1 part acid to about 3-4 parts water). Soak the parts in a bucket or paint the acid on the parts, keeping things wet for about 10-30 minutes, depending on rust depth.

4. A rinse and a light wire brushing should finish it off and get you to bare metal. Dry the parts as quickly as possible (torch, sun, heater) and prime and paint immediately.

For my frame and similar parts I have had good luck with industrial farm equipment paint. Ended up using black for frame and catepillar yellow for drivetrain and suspension components. The yellow is great cause you can see where things are leaking or where you scraped things up on the trail. Easier to see stuff under there at night too.

This may not be the easiest method, but it worked for me.

If you want cheap....

Wire wheel everything. Wipe it down. Buy a quart of Jasco metal prep - its a liquid green in a clear 1 qt bottle.

Spray it on all bare metal (I do it to everything I fab for my truck) Carefull - this stuff is really nasty. Follow the directions.

Once complete, either do the herculiner (its not that much) or Duplicolor bed liner ($32 gallon) or Hammerite it.

Done.

I think im going to wire wheel it all, thrwo some rustoleum on it for now, and hurculiner it this summer if i get the $, thanks guys, Matt:rasta:

I was in town today and I went to Hastings to see if there were any 4WD magazines. There were a lot of them. I picked up a Australian 4WD Monthly magazine. I have not ever seen one so I bought it. I thought there would be some good Toyota LC stuff in it and there is. The cost of this magazine is higher than the nuts on a giraffe. One could buy a book cheaper. However, there are two adds in this magazine about electronic rust protection. The system is patented, counteracs all rust, your entire vehicle and it is guaranteed for 10 years. No price given. Have any of you guys heard of this? If so, is it any good? Thanks, HOOT Murray

A good wire wheel, a bucket of rustoleum primer and a bucket of rustoleum black should do the trick. POR15 and all those work ok, but require perfect prep. If this is a resto, it might be worth it to do it right, it'll only be an extra $50-100, and a few more hours. Also a good thick coat of oil helps a lot for the underbody and other exterior areas, and dump a bunch in the frame. I'm using stuff called Fluid Film right now, it looks good.

Careful of anything that will form a thick, hard layer. If it chips anywhere, rust will form underneath it, and you won't know it until it's gotten a good start.

Remember that rust cannot be 100% stopped, the only real cure is to cut it out!

MMMM.....oil undercoasting....


Good for us in the land of vermont. Even though it is a tad environmentally unfriendly, it does work very well.
I have seen many trucks up here that look great after 10 years in vermont, as long as they were oil undercoated from day one.

I had a buddy whose father would brush grease onto rust spots on his car and would paint the exposed wood of their fence and deck with old motor oil.

He was from the old country, and that's the way they did things back in Poland.

:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

Brushing on the paint is a better means of coating than spraying, plus you can hold an icy cold beer while brushing paint!!!

No harmful fumes and overspray. Buy cheap throw away brushes and wear gloves and old clothes. It gets pretty messy after seven or eight ICE COLD BEERS!!!!!!!!!

i can't wait to get home and have an ICE COLD BEER!!!!!!:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

Originally posted by davefj40


is this stuff like waxoyl? how much does it cost ?

dave
I have never used waxoyl but I assume it might be similar.
I have had this gallon for a while and think it might have been around the $20 mark give or take a few coin.
For more info http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/ProductLine.asp

rich

However, there are two adds in this magazine about electronic rust protection. The system is patented, counteracs all rust, your entire vehicle and it is guaranteed for 10 years. No price given. Have any of you guys heard of this?


www.importexporthelp.com/electroshield.htm
check out this link to see about elctronic rust prevention. I have no idea if it is any good but I too would love to hear if anyone one else knows.

OK cheep itis

wire wheel and hameWright paint for every thing
visible.

the rest go to home depo look for a roof
patching compound basicaly asphalt in a can.

it is close to the same stuff used in under
coating. coat rightover the rust it wont stop
rust but will slow it down if you want even
cheeper you can use house paint instead of
the hamer wright. A enamel paint will work
but you will need 2 good coats. use a roller.

The electronic stuff is bunk. That link basically says nothing about the process other than its a paint coating that prevents rusting.

In general- electrocuting your car is only good for theft prevention with high enough voltages and for really screwing up your fuse box. :D