Ok I know this will probably cause some flaming... but im not a newbie to forums and i have searched for some info on this topic... but all it seems I have found is threads that say search... well I have searched ( not just these forums ) and still really havent found answers that I am looking for. So my questions are what is the best way to actually install these... I am doing a SOA conversion and want to know the most reliable and efficient way to mount these bad boys. I have heard move passenger side perches or fill the alignment pin holes and redrill new ones as well as a few other ideas. I plan on running 38.5 inch tires... what spring lift will I need for this as well or will just doing the SOA be enough? Will I need high steer? What degree of shims should I use in mounting the rear axle? I am trying to get all the information and be thorough before i screw something up. I am mechanically inclined... but have not really done suspension work before. I plan on doing alot of offroading... so this will not be a throw them on and hit the pavement vehicle, this is a putting in dana 60's because i snapped the rear stock axle twice already vehicle. Anyway, any information greatly appreciated. Now let the flaming begin lol.

Bill

if you use stock YJ springs, they will net you about 6 inches of lift.

I would outboard the frame mounts. I have a Chevy 60 in my YJ and thats what I did.

I used the same front axle in mine, rear axles are all the same, more or less, in terms of swapping them in.

The front will almost bolt in.

See more here:

My tech page (http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/LloydC/Jeep.html)

There's a bunch of others on this board using 79 F350 front axles full width, search around.

redrill spring holes 1/4~1/2 inch inwards each side.

probably you will need either cross over, high steer, or modified linkages.

Lift depends on how much fender trimming you want to do. I run 5 leaf waggys, which probably have about 1.5 ~ 2 inches over stock YJ, plus 1 inch BL, I've trimmed my fenders as much as is possible while keeping them, and I get rub when totally crossed up. So go from there.


Don't use degree shims on the rear axle, weld new perches on at the right angle.

etc etc

In terms of front 60s, you would be hard pressed to find an EASIER swap.

I just filled the hole and redrilled for the driver side. I felt outboarding was way too much work when all you have to do it fill and drill.
I made my own lower plate to go around the ribbing on the housing. I didn't want to risk causing a weak point and crack a section of the diff off at the tube.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/members/albuo33/Jeep_finished_023.sized.jpg
I would also 35 spline the outers and use studs on top of the kingpin caps instead of bolts.

Originally posted by chris demartini
I would outboard the frame mounts. I have a Chevy 60 in my YJ and thats what I did.

I wouldn't do that.

Not that it matters, but for reference, mine is a 14 bolt, moved back 2 inches by using waggy springs.

Basically I thought I was going to have to do all that, but I discovered this problem on its' maiden voyage, which naturally enough was a 3 day weekend wheeling event (the RockaThon) which I was running after having gotten the jeep back together at about 2 am the night before. So it had absolutely no testing, then straight onto the trails many many miles from civilization.

I noticed the diff hitting the tank skid on the fireroads on the way to the trail. I was quite worried about it and thought I was going to have to turn around and call my weekend off, but I noticed the sound was getting less and less loud and hard as I drove on. So, and I know this must sound awful on the 'high tech' board of the internet, I simply let it 'self clearance' itself. By the end of the fireroad, it hardly ever made a sound. By the end of the weekend, it was totally 'clearanced', and now it never hits anymore. Of course, I've got a nice little dent in my tank skid, and I had to cut the upper lip off the diff cover, but it is no longer a problem.

I can't really recommend this as a solution, of course. YMMV. But that is what happened in my case.

I'm surprised yours is hitting at all with that much lift in your spring. Mine hit regularily at first with little compression - perhaps yours hits only on major compression? Another note: I have a CV joint rear shaft, so my diff is tipped to point at the output of the transfer case. This helps considerably as it tries to slide by the skid - in the end, the dent in my case is right on the leading edge of the skid, and due to the arch of the axle and angle of the diff, it kinda moves on a 45 degree angle upward toward the front of the jeep - this made it hit 'less', if you get me. So if you're using a regular shaft, your interference might be more severe. Hope this makes sense. The best way to describe it is that when I first put it in there, the very top of the diff was just nicking the bottom edge of the skid on its way through. You may want to check yours out and see what kind of interference you are getting in the first place.

If you want I can take pictures.

Chad

Originally posted by Jason R


I wouldn't do that.

How come? I did a shackle reversal and moved the axle 2" foward at the same time

Ok, I have the exact same thing you are wanting to do...well, I did have it...reguardless, the easiest way to put the front in there is get a reverse shackle kit. Cut the rear spring hangers totally off of the frame and install the kit per the instructions....but when welding the new front perches on you will need to move them towards the outsides of the frame exactly 3/8 of an inch....in doing this you will let the springs fall directly into the stock Ford mounting holes. I used a piece of 1x1x1/4" angle to fill the void made by moving the perches out. I didn't have to redrill the perches on the front end at all.

The rear end I did the same was as was mentioned earlier in this post by cutting the perches off, bolting the springs on loosely and roatating the axle until the angle was correct...then reweld.

I ran a set of 38.5x11.00x16.5 Boggers on 9.25 rims using a set of 5" lift springs from St Louis spring...it sat level and the only time it rubbed is when it got at one extreme or another....and that was only the front tires because of the reverse shackle.

Another note on the reverse shackle...if you decide to do it that way, you will need to purchase a set of special shackles that will not flip over while articulating...I bought mine from FNJeep.

Keep in mind that I was using TJ flares and I cut out the body accordingly....as this will gain you significant wheel well opening.

I did run a small degree shim in the front to correct the front shaft angle, but it wasn't much.

As far as the steering goes, I did crossover using a standard Ford 4x4 pitman arm, 2 chevy truck tie rod ends, and a custom arm. I did have a rock ram, but that is immaterial.

I can send you pics of it before I changed it to coils and coil overs if you would like to see some.

hope this helps

reganswan@yahoo.com

Alot of replies thats a good thing... no flaming... thats a better thing :) Im not sure why but I didnt get email that there were replies... anyway... I am not sure which way to go lol... this weekend its supposed to get warmer so i may take a stab at setting the front axle underneath to see how it looks. When you guys redrilled... which may actually be the easiest way, did you replace the passenger side perch or redrill the existing perch? Another question I had was the springs are different widths... will this make a difference in using old brackets etc? Should I maybe modify it to use wider springs? Where have you guys gone to get new perches?

Bill

What I did was take advantage of the fact that the perches were made for 3 inch springs. In essence, because YJ springs are only 2.5 inches wide, you can move the springs 1/4 inch inboard each side without really having to change the perches at all. This moves the springs in to where they should be. I did this by making a plate the exact size as the top of the perch, but with the center hole offset 1/4 inch to one side:

http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/Lloydc/FrontSprings/Small/154-5449_IMG.JPG

I then welded these on to the top of the perches.

I then made new spring plates, also the same as the stock plates in terms of size, but with the holes offset drilled 1/4 inch to the inside, and used these plates on top of the spring. The end result is the springs 1/2 inch closer together, which in my case at least, did the trick.

You could do the same thing by filling the holes and redrilling - I simply find the plate easier to make, cuz I'm of low skill in the fab department. Once the plates are welded on there, I usually drill through the new hole so it goes through the perch underneath, and I'm good to go.

http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/Lloydc/FrontSprings/Small/154-5450_IMG.JPG
http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/Lloydc/FrontSprings/Small/154-5451_IMG.JPG

So obviously I used the stock perches on the front axle, left them where they were, with these plates welded on top. I used custom offset drilled spring plates to hold the springs to the axles. I use YJ width springs, 2.5 inches wide.

On the rear, I cut off the old perches, welded new ones on. I use rectangular tubing, I think it is actually used for receiver hitches, it happens to be the right size for 2.5 inch springs.

I should also note that I don't personally weld. I get everything cut out the way I want it, tack it in place with a borrowed welder where I want it, then a friend of mine (Rico) who is a professional welder comes and does the final welding. This resolves all my cast/mild steel issues, as well as worries about if it is strong enough etc etc.

Originally posted by Insayn
I just filled the hole and redrilled for the driver side. I felt outboarding was way too much work when all you have to do it fill and drill.
I made my own lower plate to go around the ribbing on the housing. I didn't want to risk causing a weak point and crack a section of the diff off at the tube.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/members/albuo33/Jeep_finished_023.sized.jpg
I would also 35 spline the outers and use studs on top of the kingpin caps instead of bolts.

I chose to cut the housing and do a convetional Ubolt.
Used three 3in 9/16 size U-bolts and one 3.5in U-bolt. The 3.5in was tight over the casting and a 3.75 might have been better. Alittle grinding and the 3.5in fit. I built my own custom Ubolt plate to accept a 3in on one side and a 3.5in on the other. I cut the u-bolts down


http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=477

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=550

When you guys redrilled... which may actually be the easiest way, did you replace the passenger side perch or redrill the existing perch?

I cut the passenger side perch off the axle and moved it in, instead of redrilling. I also slotted the hole on the driver's side to accomodate the different width. As was previously stated, you won't find much easier of a swap!

Originally posted by BlueJeep


I cut the passenger side perch off the axle and moved it in, instead of redrilling. I also slotted the hole on the driver's side to accomodate the different width. As was previously stated, you won't find much easier of a swap!

Same here, so what if it's offset by 1/2 inch! Nice and easy and now theres no tweaked springs.

Same here, so what if it's offset by 1/2 inch! Nice and easy and now theres no tweaked springs.

Mine's NOT offset and my springs are straight. I slotted the hole in the casting so that it would not be offset to the passenger side. Not a very hard mod.