I plan to run 35s on my 81 toy. I am going to weld the rear and possibly the front too. My current gears are 3.90s or 4.11s. Would it be better to run 4.88s, 5.29s, or 4.7 transfer case gears. This is going to be a mostly trail rig that I will drive to the trail.

You'll want the 5.29's in the diffs. With 35's on stock gears, you'll be smokin' clutches like crazy. I'd opt for the diff gears over the t-case gears.

Gear the axles for the street and the t-case for the trail.

Originally posted by Recurve
Gear the axles for the street and the t-case for the trail.

5.29s are for the street.

Originally posted by hjeepxj


5.29s are for the street.

Dayum, with those gears and 35" tires you will be revvin the hell out of that thing on the highway.

im running 34" ltb's and 529 gears...its not to bad at all...i can actually use fith gear...first sucks though..i can only get to about 4 miles per hour befor i got to hit 2nd

Originally posted by 92 S-Dime


Dayum, with those gears and 35" tires you will be revvin the hell out of that thing on the highway.

Nope

idk much about toyotas, but I do know they NEED gears, when they have 100 ft lbs of torque and shitty tranny/tcase gearing.

My buddy has a 95 runner with the 3.0, and 33s, he had to go to 4.88s to run in 5th gear.

you plan on wheeling it hard? just driving to the trail and back? if yes to both then just stick with 4.10s, you can get 4.10 3rds for 40$ all day. when you break that 200$ r&p youd prolly be thinking you could of lived with no get up on the street. i have 33s with 4.10s and do 4th gear up hill , but i do have a weber and header . ive got 38.5 boggers in the garage and im staying with 4.10s , just need to go dual cases then crawler gears . for the price of frt and rr gears you could go duals and youll love the gearing options when wheelin.

5.29 gears and 35's is close to the stock ratio and optimal for street/highway use. If you are building a trail rig, go for the 4.10 stock gears and gear down the t-case. The stock gears are quite a bit stronger than 5.29's.

Like as mentioned before if it is mainly a trail rig I would keep the 4.10's they considerably stronger and definatly cheaper. Plus if you do reductions in the t-case you will achive a lower crawl ratio then swaping to 5.29's. If you do the 5.29's and stock t-case gears your crawl ratio would be 46 to 1. If you run stock 4.10's with one t-case geared with 4.7's your crawl ratio would be 63 to 1.

Kevin

Cheaper to regear the t-case too.

Originally posted by toy283
Cheaper to regear the t-case too.


What he said.

I want to point out that if you go the transfer case gears route Id opt for dual cases, youll retain stock low. If you go to gears only you will crawl only and if there is mud youll be dissapointed.

Personaly i would do both. 5.13 in the diffs and dual cases with one with 4.7 but that is alot of cash. Your choice is to have the 5.38's and not do so well offroad or have the t-case gears and not do so well on-road. Your choice.

Or get a 350. :D

If you can only regear 1 or the other, do the axles first. You'll be putting your gear reduction closer to the wheels, taking strain off the rest of the driveline. Then save up your cash and do the t-case.


It'd be better on the street too.



Hef

I plan to run 35s on my 81 toy. I am going to weld the rear and possibly the front too. My current gears are 3.90s or 4.11s. Would it be better to run 4.88s, 5.29s, or 4.7 transfer case gears. This is going to be a mostly trail rig that I will drive to the trail.

This is going to be a mostly trail rig that I will drive to the trail.

(think he said it right here mostly trail rig)

get a set of case gears and stick to the 4:10's

unless you plan on driving it on the street a good bit

but just to get back and forth to the trails you should be ok
depending on how far the trails are from where you live

I drove mine with 33's and 4:10's for years and mine is a daily driver.