Here are a few photos of a RC44 I shaved. I thought some might be interresed in it. I use a port-a-band saw to do most of the work. Its also on the For sale board. http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/shaved441.jpg http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/shaved442.jpg http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/shaved443.jpg

WOW! Looks good Dean!

looks good! how much clearance did you gain? did you take anything off the ring gear?

I didn't screw with the ring gear since this is just a front for sale so I don't know what gears will be going in it. I think you only gain about 1/2" but it is the smooth bottom that helps so much.

Originally posted by 66CJdean
I didn't screw with the ring gear since this is just a front for sale so I don't know what gears will be going in it. I think you only gain about 1/2" but it is the smooth bottom that helps so much.

cool thanks. i am contemplating shaving my rear 14bolt. i have already taken a grinder to the rear lip but it too looks as if i could gain another 1/2" if i cut the bottom out and plate it.

Shaving a 14 bolt helps a ton! With that you might want to do the ring gear and get an extra 1/4" and realy make it worth your time.

A dumb question...

Does shaving take away any strength? The casting that was there-was there for a reason. I mean, that is a pretty important part of the housing to keep as strong as possible. Don't get me wrong, ground clearance is good, but isn't a strong housing more important?

This isn't something new and I haven't heard any reports back of any problems but I hear you. If you plan on jumping your rig then I would leave it alone.

when you shave the ring gear is there any modifications that need to be done to the pinion gear. I have a line on a cheap 14 bolt and want to know what i can do to it myself for clearence. I will be running the 35's i have for a whole cause they are brand new

No mod to the pinion needed because it doesn't run out on the toe of the ring gear.

What did you weld on the cut off portion? 1/4" steel plate? How difficult is it to weld to the housing? Did you weld only on the outside or the inside too? Did you weld an inch, wait for it to cool down and then weld an inch and so on? Or did you do one pass?

I bought a Hobart Handler 120 (before Miller bought them out and started putting the cheap shit in it) and have been messing around making brakets, welding on shock mounts, and other various projects. So, would my welder be able to handle welding to the housing or should I have a pro do it? Will I be able to do it in a couple passes? What wire do I need? What is the deal with pre-heating and things like that?

I am learning by experience. I would like to become a proficient welder, but need some good advice.

Thanks for your time and knowledge,
Jason

It is a 1/2 plate on there and no a 120 is not going to weld it properly. I put down 3 passes in a backstep meathod with no cooling and only some preheating. There are a few small welds on the inside but if you weld it inside and out that will cause a lot of stress and probably some cracks.
Backstep meathod is like this: You are standing on the 10 yard line and walk to the 11 yd line. Now jump back to the 9 and walk to the 10 then jump back to the 8 and walk to the 9 etc... So pictur what I am taking about but in 1 inch welds. One other thing is start in the middle and work out to where the cover bolts on.

Originally posted by 66CJdean
I put down 3 passes in a backstep meathod with no cooling and only some preheating.

When you preheat, how hot do you heat the case, and to how far away from where you're welding? I.e, do you heat the entire cast or just a few inches from where you'll be doing the welding?

Thanks,

- Mike

woudnt several holes, a tap , a few bolts, and some silicone close the hole also? asuuming its ground flat?

it sure seems like welding that is inviting a crack!

I only preheat the area I am going to weld. Heat it until you see the water comes out so just over 200 is all you need don't get it red hot.

Originally posted by 66CJdean
I only preheat the area I am going to weld. Heat it until you see the water comes out so just over 200 is all you need don't get it red hot.

Thanks for the info -- For the price you wanted I'd be willing to buy yours -- but I'm running a CJ and not planning on changing the T-Case.

Local Yard wants $350 to $400 for a SJ 44, and I still have to buy gears... unless I can find one with 4.10's.

- Mike

I understand your method clearly, thanks 66 CJdean.
I guess I should have gotten a 220.

66cjdean,

I like the protection you did on the cover. Did you weld the steel on to it in one pass? I would be afraid of distorting the cover so there would not be a flat surface to seal. Any tips? How thick was the steel you used? thanks.

Tim

Do as much of the welding as you can with the cover bolted to the housing or C-clamped to a heavy steel table and don't touch it until it is cool. It will warp some but with this meathod it won't warp much.

BTT for the late comers:flipoff2:

I shaved my 44 also but I didn't go that x-treeme. I shaved into the lower bolt. The cover will have a 1/4 plate welded over the bolt that is missing.

how is this max shaved pig going to keep the cover plate from pealing off on a rock?

Originally posted by kodak
how is this max shaved pig going to keep the cover plate from pealing off on a rock?

The bottom of the cover was cut off and a 3/4X1 1/4 piece was welded in and in the piece were 3 countersunk 1/4 allen head bolts. The pic doesn't show the detail.

Looks great!! How many axles have you shaved in the past? I need to learn how!

Only this one and now a 60.