Well, the search didn't turn up anything.
Anyone know how to explain how deep I need to ream my knuckles and pitman for the 7/8" Chevy drag link ends?

I've got the reamer, and even have 3 different hi-steer arms here that are all supposed to be set up for these ends. Wouldn't ya know- all 3 arms are reamed to different depths!!!:mad:

The one that fits my pro-rock is bored way too deep. The TRE won't even articulate fully just sitting loose in the arm.

Help???
Thanks!!!
Dirk

just enough that you get the castle-nut all the way on the threads

Originally posted by Dirk00TJ
Well, the search didn't turn up anything.
Anyone know how to explain how deep I need to ream my knuckles and pitman for the 7/8" Chevy drag link ends?

I've got the reamer, and even have 3 different hi-steer arms here that are all supposed to be set up for these ends. Wouldn't ya know- all 3 arms are reamed to different depths!!!:mad:

The one that fits my pro-rock is bored way too deep. The TRE won't even articulate fully just sitting loose in the arm.

Help???
Thanks!!!
Dirk

Damn, I am about to do this next week, I hope I don't fawk it up...

Are you sure you got the right tapered reamer?
Did you drill a 5/8" hole and used the reamer afterward?

Good luck.

Originally posted by BlueAngel


Damn, I am about to do this next week, I hope I don't fawk it up...

Are you sure you got the right tapered reamer?
Did you drill a 5/8" hole and used the reamer afterward?

Good luck.
Got the right reamer.
I've done the pitman arm so far, so I didn't drill it out- just reamed it. Only went as deep as the shallowest arm I have...

Just wondering how far the end will suck down when tightening...?

Well, first off, what I would do is get a baseline. For example, I would scrounge the junkyard and find a pitman arm (or knuckle if available) that uses the 1-ton chevy hardware and get some dimensions. What I would pay attention to would be the diameter of the larger side of the tapered hole (where the TRE is inserted).

Assuming that your reamer is of the correct taper, I would ream the hi-steer arm until its respective diameter (of the side where the reamer is inserted) reaches what your "baseline" measurement is. This will give you the factory placement of the TRE.

But, since the thicknesses may vary between your application and the factory pitman arm/knuckle arm, the baseline dimension may not work. Like it was stated before, you need to get the castle nut on far enough that a cotter pin can be used to capture it.

In order to get full motion, maybe you could chamfer the edge of the steering arm to allow the TRE a full range of motion.

Originally posted by Nagode
Well, first off, what I would do is get a baseline. For example, I would scrounge the junkyard and find a pitman arm (or knuckle if available) that uses the 1-ton chevy hardware and get some dimensions. What I would pay attention to would be the diameter of the larger side of the tapered hole (where the TRE is inserted).


I am using Ford dana 60 stock knuckles with the Chevy 1 ton TRE and it is a direct fit for the knuckles, the smallest hole diameter is 5/8" and the biggest is 3/4".

I just tapered them far enough that when I put the castle nut on and torqued 'em up the hairpin would just go through the hole.

I scammed this from another post. I can't say if it's accurate but seemed to be inline with my findings.

Here is the spec for the Moog ES2233L TRE taper:
0.675" top dia = X
0.776" bot dia = Y
0.808" heigth = Z

Originally posted by xj4rocks
I just tapered them far enough that when I put the castle nut on and torqued 'em up the hairpin would just go through the hole.

I did the same. Be careful towards the end to not go too fast; the high quality reamers will cut faster then you'd expect.

- Chris

Originally posted by Csnyder


I did the same. Be careful towards the end to not go too fast; the high quality reamers will cut faster then you'd expect.

- Chris
Got that right!!!
Found out tonite that a little goes a long ways towards the end. I got it right, but I didn't think that last little bit would cut so fast.

Hey gang-
On another note- about how much thread do I want showing on the tie rod and draglink ends after the jamb nuts are tight? 1/4" or so still showing? More?

Thanks for all the info!
Dirk

Originally posted by Dirk00TJ

Got that right!!!
Found out tonite that a little goes a long ways towards the end. I got it right, but I didn't think that last little bit would cut so fast.

Hey gang-
On another note- about how much thread do I want showing on the tie rod and draglink ends after the jamb nuts are tight? 1/4" or so still showing? More?

Thanks for all the info!
Dirk I personally like to have just about 3 threads showing. I like to have all the thread in there I can get. You can always wack a little of the tie rod if you need to bring the toe in tighter. Just get the toe as close as you can at first. Then, three or so threads will bring it in quite a bit if need be.