Since things are kinda slow around here, thought I´d start a post on my current plans / build-up. By opening this post, I´ll therefore "force" myself into actually doing something other than web-wheeling.........:rolleyes: :p


What I have in mind:

- Full width D44s to replace the D30s (I know, I should have done it RIGHT the first fawking time, it wasn´t for lack of warning from you fawlers........)

- Triangulated 4-link F/R, replacing the current 2-link/panhard set-up

- Wheel base extension to ~ 86". That´s as far as I can go an still leave the gas tank in place and also keep the full body. Maybe later I´ll move it into the bed.......

- Fox Air Shox on all 04 corners

- Full hydro.

- Jump from 35" to 38.5" SXs.

The kicker is that I have to have all of this ready my the middle of May, in time for a comp. But since I have a DAY JOB (unlike coff... coff.....Shane coff.......coff....... ):flipoff2: , :flipoff2: , I won´t be able to dedicate 25 hours a day to the build-up.

My initial plan was to prepare the suspension "off-line", running my current setup normally and then swapping everything out in one or two weekends. However, financial realities will require that I sell off a lot of my current junk to buy the new stuff, specifically the Fox Shox and full hydro parts........:p Oh well, I guees this will just give me more motivation to get cracking.......

I´ll be tearing into it starting tomorrow. New pics next week.........


The "before" shot.........

Sounds good Billj, you should be able to get it done, time wise, we all know about the $$$ constraints though:(

Looking forward to seeing the pics :D

Dont forget whatever time you figure on multiply that number by about 4. At least with me.

Originally posted by killr-b
Dont forget whatever time you figure on multiply that number by about 4. At least with me.


Only 4, dayum you work fast.......I started last fall, and still dont have the thing done:rolleyes:

then again it was a bit colder in my garage that most of you guys:eek:

Originally posted by Orionn
Sounds good Billj, you should be able to get it done, time wise, we all know about the $$$ constraints though:(

Looking forward to seeing the pics :D


I hear that..........

I really don´t expect any real time constraints, other than for the full hydro setup. For the rest, I already have on hand almost everything I need. I still haven´t put the purchase on the Fox Shox, but I can build the mounts beforehand. The upper mounts might present a headache tho, since I´m still running a full body....

If the full hydro gives me problems, I´ll go mechanical until it´s ready. Although I doubt VERY much that the rag joint´s gonna like turning 38,5" SXs thru a manual box........:eek:

Some pics of this weekends cuttin´ n´ hackin´........:p

Rear axle hung by ropes......

What lenght of Air Shocks will you use?

Approximate positoning of rear tire, this one´s a 35" SX. They´re be a set of 38.5" SXs going under there. Also visible is the hoop for the Fox Air Shox. It was a beotch to bend these up since there are two almost 90* bends right next to each other. Even worse was to get both sides the same. Only killed one piece of tube tho, so not too bad.......;)

Kyrist sakes GOnzalo, wanna let me finish?!?!?..........:flipoff2:

I´ll be using 14" Fox Shox. Even at this length, I´ll have to saw holes in the top of the wheel wells.......

A side shot showing approximately how much the tires are gonna stick out........

front hoop......

I burned out the brushes on both of my angle grinders, so I couldn´t finish cutting off all of the crap on the axles........:mad: So I wasted a little time mocking up the links......

The link materials. I´m gonna use 1.5" x 0.120 wall EHRW tubing for the links and rubber bushings on both ends. There´ll be a rotating section made from a M24 Allen bolt on one end of each link so the bushings won´t get over-stressed, kinda like what bgreen did....

Saving the most challenging part for last, my front axle. I´ll be switching the pumpkin over to the other side on this bad boy and also going full hydro........

With that size tires, how high do you reckon it will be? Or is it sawzall time? :D

Originally posted by Starslope
With that size tires, how high do you reckon it will be? Or is it sawzall time? :D


In the pics, the rig´s at ride height for 35" tires, which are 34" real. The 38.5" tires are 36.75" tall, so the rig will be going up around 1.5" from where it now sits on the jack stands.

I plan on setting up everything to keep the rig as low as possible, I have on fear of the Sawzall........:D

Originally posted by billj
front hoop......

That is a really cool shock mount!!! Will you joint them at the top with a bar in between?

Originally posted by Gonzalo Bravo


That is a really cool shock mount!!! Will you joint them at the top with a bar in between?


My idea is to wled a small length of tubing to connect the shock hoop to the existing shock/spring tower just behind it. If necessary, I´ll run a bar across the engine bay, but I want to avoid this if possible. There´s not a lot of room in there and I eventually will be going with a V6 motor, so space is at a premium.

In the back, I will be running two 1" tubes to connect the shock hoops on both sides. There´s enough room between the frame and tub for this and also a couple spots to get some good welds on the frame to hold it all together......

awesome tube bending, Bill! the 3dimensional spacialization part of my brain hurts just thinking of those bends:D

did you get any (*)(*) pics for us? did I miss the thread?:(

what the hell are you gonna do now for flares :flipoff2:

Originally posted by UZI 9mm
awesome tube bending, Bill! the 3dimensional spacialization part of my brain hurts just thinking of those bends:D

did you get any (*)(*) pics for us? did I miss the thread?:(

what the hell are you gonna do now for flares :flipoff2:


Thanks. I do the best with what I have, one of them hydro pipe bender POS........:p ;)


http://img.terra.com.br/i/2004/02/28/112893_cp.jpg

It rained like a beotch the whole week, so the Carnaval celebrations were quite hampered throughout the country. Nevertheless, good times were had by all.......:D


Fawk the flares, I´m runnin´nekid from now on.......:D

Originally posted by billj


In the back, I will be running two 1" tubes to connect the shock hoops on both sides. There´s enough room between the frame and tub for this and also a couple spots to get some good welds on the frame to hold it all together......

Will you make something to keep mud out of the tub?

Originally posted by billj





Fawk the flares, I´m runnin´nekid from now on.......:D


cough cough

easier than washing clothes .. especially in a warm wet climate :D

i'd seriously consider sleeveing the lowers with 1.75 .120 dom. i know that 120 wall lowers dont last long around here. looks sweet so far....

BRB stole my thunder. :D

My plan is definitley sleeved links, although it'll probably be 1.75 .120 wall sleeved with 2" .250 wall.

If you're dead set on .120 wall links for some reason (cost? weight?) I'd use at least a 2" diameter tube, if you want any chance at all that it will survive the first time the link gets perched on something.

Originally posted by BRB
i'd seriously consider sleeveing the lowers with 1.75 .120 dom. i know that 120 wall lowers dont last long around here. looks sweet so far....

I second doing somthing to your lowers. I first did 1 1/4 .188 wall Dom which should be comparable strength to 1 1/2 .120 and bent them easily. I then redid them and built them with 1 1/2 5/16" wall DOM, after about 4 runs they are still straight as an arrow.

Originally posted by TNToy
BRB stole my thunder. :D

My plan is definitley sleeved links, although it'll probably be 1.75 .120 wall sleeved with 2" .250 wall.

If you're dead set on .120 wall links for some reason (cost? weight?) I'd use at least a 2" diameter tube, if you want any chance at all that it will survive the first time the link gets perched on something.

yah, .120 is just not enough. problem with 2 inch .120 is that, although its very stiff(hard to bend), it is also much easier to dent than . once dented, its much weaker and easier to bend. in short, i'd go at least .250 in wall thickness on the lowers, you'll be glad you did.hth

tnt, you mean 1.5 sleeved with the 2"?? :flipoff2:

Here are a couple of my OLD samy front for ya.

TB

http://www.fototime.com/{1C88BA3D-3068-4432-8B9C-5D59FCBA0BBD}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{D34F3281-AC6D-4EA0-93C0-00B4FBE02157}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{064FA3C8-E8CE-4155-88DE-880A6704BBBF}/picture.JPG

Originally posted by Gonzalo Bravo


Will you make something to keep mud out of the tub?

I won´t need to make any holes in the tub except for the tops of the shock mounts and for these, I´ve found some rubber caps that will seal off nicely.......;)

Thanks for all of the tips on the bottom links. I´ll see what I can find in heavy wall 1 1/2" tube. I´d like to stay with this OD, as my bushing housings are already made and are 40 mm wide.

WOOOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

:bounce: :bounce:


Most of the text is in Portuguese. Can you figger out what I just bought?!?!





=================

Subject: Askby.com

Muito obrigado por comprar através do Askby.com.
As informações sobre sua compra estão abaixo:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

04 Super Swamper Tire TSL SX SAM75 38.5x14.5-15

===============================================

Obs.: Seu pedido está confirmado e já foi encaminhado,
assim que despacharmos informaremos por e-mail o dia
provável para a entrega no Brasil.
aprox. 10 a 15 dias após despacho de Miami.

Obrigado por comprar Askby.com !



===================



;) :bounce: :bounce:

how bout some 2''x.25 wall:D

10 days to get your tires to brasil from miami? wow.

:eek:

Originally posted by HZJ60_Guy
Here are a couple of my OLD samy front for ya.

http://www.fototime.com/{064FA3C8-E8CE-4155-88DE-880A6704BBBF}/picture.JPG

Where did you atach the upper link at rear? Any Pics?

Update...........

Tha 14" Fox Air Shox were ordered yesterday and should be delivered to my buddy Regis in the States by next Friday. The full-hydro valve, steering column and cylinder were ordered today (thanks Station) and should also arrive in short order. When Regis returns to Brasil in early April, he´ll be bringing all this stuff in his moving container. Getting through customs without major hassles will be the next major step to be overcome.........

Steel for the sub-frame and links will be delivered to my home/shop tomorrow. Got new brushes for my angle grinders and shitloads of welding rod, major cuttage and hackage expected over the weekend. Pics next week.

That is all............;)

Originally posted by BRB
TNT, you mean 1.5 sleeved with the 2"?? :flipoff2: ACtually, since looking around at the availbility of different sized tubing adapters, etc... I'm most likely going to end up with 1.5" .250 wall, sleeved with 1.75 .120 wall. Both DOM.

In effect, that will be a 1.75, 3/8 wall tube, with a 1" ID that is easy to find a tubing adapter for. :)

tubing adapters...? We don't need no stinking tube adapters.

-Wayne

Originally posted by rotozuk
tubing adapters...? We don't need no stinking tube adapters.

-Wayne


Yeah, WTF are tubing adapters anyways?!? And WTF are they doing in my build-up thread?!? Start yer own, hi-jackin´ MoFo!!!!.......:flipoff2:

EDIT: Just to be perfectly clear, TNToy´s the hi-jackin´ MoFo..
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Wayne´s just yer general run-of-the-mill-standard-issue MoFo.




:flipoff2:

Bill: are you going to have enough room between tire and frame for the rear shox during articulation? I know on mine it was close...and 1200.00 worth of shox and close arn't in my vocab.:D
This is why I cut the body and frame.

Originally posted by mudlite
Bill: are you going to have enough room between tire and frame for the rear shox during articulation? I know on mine it was close...and 1200.00 worth of shox and close arn't in my vocab.:D
This is why I cut the body and frame.


I "think" so...........:p

Actually, I´m kinda worried about exactly this issue. My CAD simulations say that it´ll be close, just as you said. I´m going to mock it up and hope it works. If not, I´ll look for another solution......

Originally posted by mudlite
I know on mine it was close...and 1200.00 worth of shox and close arn't in my vocab.:D
This is why I cut the body and frame.

Damn, $1200? I think you payed to much. Either that or my math is bad. $185 x 4 = $740

Shipping must be expensive in your parts!

But still, your point is valid...

Opps.. he's talking Canadian money. So yeah.. $1200 is a lot of money, just not as much down here..


Hey Bill, am I a hi-jackin´ MoFo now? :flipoff2:

-Wayne

Just found out that some of my build-up stuff just arrived at my buddy Regis´ house in the States........

http://www.4x4brasil.com.br/forum/download.php?id=2928

:bounce: :bounce:

Thanks Station, first rate service, you´ll be highly recommended in the future........:beer:



The best part is that it looks like Regis´ move will be air shipped back to Brasil. I guess my May deadline to have my junk back together might just be realistic after all!!!!!.........;)


That is all...........

UPDATE

- The 38,5 SXs have been liberated from customs and should be deliverd to my door mid-next week.

- My buddy Regis has received the Fox Air Shox and full hydro. His move back to Brasil should leave the States next week. Depending on customs, I should have my grubby hands on this stuff my the end of April.

- The sub-frame and suspension control arms are being MIG´d today. I´ll be slapping a coat of primer on them tomorrow and they´ll be under the truck by Sunday. I´ve pre-welded the tabs on the rear axles and will test-fit one more time before finishing just to ensure the pinion angle. Pics next Monday........

- I´ll be attacking the front axle pumkin side swap starting next week.........



Now another subject: These axles that I have are geared with 4.10s. My mid-range plans are to go with a Kicker type double t-case setup with an auto tranny. However, this is around 6-9 months in the future. In the meantime, I´ll have to live with spinning 38,5" Sxs with these 4.10 gears thru a 4,89 t-case, all pushed by a 1.6 16V motor. Think this will be at all wheelable or should I get cracking on the Kicker case ASAP ?!!?

I suppose I could also go with 4.88 gears, but I really don´t wanna change out the 4.10s, as these are very low milege, factory setup diffs. Other that install lockers, I´d rather not fawk with them.........

TIA

Originally posted by billj
UPDATE



Now another subject: These axles that I have are geared with 4.10s. My mid-range plans are to go with a Kicker type double t-case setup with an auto tranny. However, this is around 6-9 months in the future. In the meantime, I´ll have to live with spinning 38,5" Sxs with these 4.10 gears thru a 4,89 t-case, all pushed by a 1.6 16V motor. Think this will be at all wheelable or should I get cracking on the Kicker case ASAP ?!!?

I suppose I could also go with 4.88 gears, but I really don´t wanna change out the 4.10s, as these are very low milege, factory setup diffs. Other that install lockers, I´d rather not fawk with them.........

TIA

Here down and close to you, stock Toy pickups comes with 4.88 gears, so they are not so expensive and you could find them at many junk yards.

Originally posted by Gonzalo Bravo


Here down and close to you, stock Toy pickups comes with 4.88 gears, so they are not so expensive and you could find them at many junk yards.



.......my axles are Danas.........


But that´s not the point anyways, 4.88s are easy to get for Danas as well. I´m wondering if I´ll even need 4.88 gears, considering that I´ll be going with a double t-case set-up eventually.

That is when a certain SOMEONE gets around to sending me some info............;) :D

Some progress pics...........


EDIT: That´s an perspective illusion that the exhaust will hit the link, they´re actually quite far apart.......

sub-frame......

t-case mount.......

It flexes really nice with no binding. Still not real happy with those bump stops though, look like an afterthought.......

at ride height.........

A shot of the links and bushings. I´m using rubber bushings out of a VW truck for all linik ends. To avoid premature wear, the links have a swivel joint made from M24 bolts. I decided to continue with 1.5" x 0.120 tube for the bottom links, but welded on some 1" angle to the bottom side, that should protect them from damage.......

Here´s a mock up of the front axle, just to verify the tube lengths after cutting. As some may recall, I´m using an axle with a driver´s side drop, so I´ve gotta switch it around to the passenger´s side. I´´ll be making some sleeves to go inside the tubes today.....


BTW, is there a secret to removing the king pins on this type of axle?!? I removed the cotter pin and nut from the bottom and the clamping screw from the top, but even after beating on the pins for a while, nothing even budged.....:p :(

I also made some good progress on the rear hoops for the Fox Air Shox, but didn´t get any pics, camera battery died. I´ll get some tonight......

At this rate, my May deadline looks realistic!!!!!!!!;)

Originally posted by billj

BTW, is there a secret to removing the king pins on this type of axle?!? I removed the cotter pin and nut from the bottom and the clamping screw from the top, but even after beating on the pins for a while, nothing even budged.....:p :(

Bill,
I haven't worked on any kingpin type Dana axles but I've
found on the balljoint type that it makes a big differance if you
have a solid support right next to the "C" yoke.I use some big
wood blocks on a concrete floor.Seems to give the BFH more
shock value.Good luck.

Brad

Originally posted by billj
I also made some good progress on the rear hoops for the Fox Air Shox, but didn´t get any pics, camera battery died. I´ll get some tonight......

At this rate, my May deadline looks realistic!!!!!!!!;)

Will be waiting ;)

It appears that my Fox Air Shox will only be arriving in May. In order to speed up the build-up, I´d really appreciate it if someone with these shocks could get a measurement for me........

The mounting bolts for the shocks are 1/2", as mentioned in Billavista´s article. However, there is no mention of the width of this assembly, taking into account the spherical rod end and the two steel spacers.


Can someone get me this measurement?!?

TIA,

Originally posted by billj
A shot of the links and bushings. I´m using rubber bushings out of a VW truck for all linik ends. To avoid premature wear, the links have a swivel joint made from M24 bolts. I decided to continue with 1.5" x 0.120 tube for the bottom links, but welded on some 1" angle to the bottom side, that should protect them from damage.......

Which VW truck model came with such bushuings and where?

Originally posted by Gonzalo Bravo


Which VW truck model came with such bushuings and where?

It´s a bushing from the front stabilizer bar on VW trucks 6.80, 6.90, 7.90, 7.100 and 7.110

Axios part number 011.1036

HTH

Some pics of the rear shock hoops.......

The hoops on both sides are connected by a tube going under the frame and are braced into the frame sidewall using the original round cross tube. Further gusseting will be made by tying into what´s left of the factory panhard mounts......;)

I´m also going to use this cross tube to mount the diff limiting strap....

Here´s the other side, showing the tire clearance. I stuffed the tire into the wheel well and there´ll still be room for the Fox Air Shox.......;)

a side shot of the hoop.......

Oh, and the sleeves for the front axle. There´ll be 4" of engagement on each side of the joints, which will be "V" and rossetie welded........

Originally posted by billj
Oh, and the sleeves for the front axle. There´ll be 4" of engagement on each side of the joints, which will be "V" and rossetie welded........

Sweet work, Bill:cool:

Did you use a cut off saw or a big pipe cutter?

With the end of the sleeve at the pumpkin side, does the sleeve go all the way to the original tube's termination?

The reason I ask, is if the sleeve doesn't quite go all the way, maybe a source for stress in the section of original tube between the diff and beginning of sleeved area?

Probably not, but just curious:D

http://media.doitbest.com/products/330804.gif

:p


My angle grinders both bit the big one, heavy duty work for not so heavy duty tools. That´s why you can still see some excess metal on the axle tubes.......:(


The end of the sleeves will go almost to the end of the original tube, to within 3/4" of the carrier bearing. In this way, there will be double thickness of tube well into the center section.......

Originally posted by billj
http://media.doitbest.com/products/330804.gif

:p


My angle grinders both bit the big one, heavy duty work for not so heavy duty tools. That´s why you can still see some excess metal on the axle tubes.......:(


The end of the sleeves will go almost to the end of the original tube, to within 3/4" of the carrier bearing. In this way, there will be double thickness of tube well into the center section.......


:laughing: no way!-both my angle grinders crapped out as well awhile back, and that's what I'm having to do:D

Cutting 1/4" steel for skidplate gets fawking brutal after a bit. :rolleyes:

Some more progress pics........

Here´s some of the front axle in place.......

The Fox Shox haven´t arrived yet, so I´m using a Rancho to eyeball in the mounting points. I´ve since pulled both axles out from under the truck for final welding......

Here´s a comparison shot between the 35" SXs that were on the rig and the new 38,5" SXs........

Also an unsuccessful attempt to break the inside bead on the 35s........ :p

Here is a little trick I have for breaking the beads...





I put them on my car, and they just seem to fall off. Go figure.

-Wayne

Is this thread working? I got an email from Pirate showing a update, but not here on the web site..?

-Wayne

Yeah Wayne, the thread works. I had posted a message, but the pics didn´t link up, so I deleted it. Then i had to go to a fawking meeting (work sometimes gets in the way).......

==============

Anyways.........

Some pics of my junk, taken yesterday.

http://paginas.terra.com.br/negocios/Sigma/bill2/bill2.html



There are still a few things left to wrap up, but nothing that will take too long. The rig will be rolling by Friday. It HAS to be, I´ve got a comp on Sunday.......

Left to do:

- Calibrate the Air Shox. that´s why you´ll see blocks of wood under the frame rails over the front axle.
- Install the ARB in the front axle.
- Hook up the hydraulics for the steering
- install CV driveshafts
- Sawzall the front side of the front wheel wells.
- Install limiting straps.


As always, comments are welcome.......

Are you/have you decided on t-case gearing and axle gearing :confused: I can't recall with all these buildup threads sometimes, who's on first and what's on second :D

38.5's. :cool2:


damn you. :flipoff2:


btw, the hydro ram mount-this is ingenious! did you invent that or is it model specific for axle being used etc?

awesome.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7196/billJhydro.jpg

You best get to work because a couple of those items are a pain in the butt. Like the hydro steering that always seems to have a leak or two and bleeding troubles on the first go round.

We messed with adjusting the Fox Shox on Dallas's rig this weekend. It took a while to guess at the oil levels and PSI we wanted to start with. I forget what all we did, but it is written down.. :)

-Wayne

Are you/have you decided on t-case gearing and axle gearing :confused: I can't recall with all these buildup threads sometimes, who's on first and what's on second :D

38.5's. :cool2:


damn you. :flipoff2:


btw, the hydro ram mount-this is ingenious! did you invent that or is it model specific for axle being used etc?

awesome.



Thanks....... :)

I´m using my 4,89 t-case thru 5,38 R&Ps. That should be enough to get me by until I get around to preparing and installing the auto tranny and double t-case setup. BTW, thanks to Gonzalo Bravo for the drawings that I received yesterday by snail mail........... :D :beer:


Concerning the hydro mount, I just bent some tubing to fit...... I´m using the shock mounting points from the original vehicle which are machined into the actual knucke. It outta hold up well and it´s easy to remove to get at the diff.

You best get to work because a couple of those items are a pain in the butt. Like the hydro steering that always seems to have a leak or two and bleeding troubles on the first go round.

We messed with adjusting the Fox Shox on Dallas's rig this weekend. It took a while to guess at the oil levels and PSI we wanted to start with. I forget what all we did, but it is written down.. :)

-Wayne

I´m going till I drop every night, last night I worked until after midnight. I´m also going to blow off work on Thursday and Friday. If nothing goes terribly wrong, I should be OK.

If you could fire off to me the settings that you used for Dallas´s rig, I´d really appreciate it. At least I´d have a starting point. Actually, I don´t plan to even touch the oil level this weekend, I´ll just adjust the nitro to ride height and call it good for now.........

Bill: are you going to have enough room between tire and frame for the rear shox during articulation? I know on mine it was close...and 1200.00 worth of shox and close arn't in my vocab.:D
This is why I cut the body and frame.


Remember this concern, John?!? Well guess what, they fawking rub....... :(

http://paginas.terra.com.br/negocios/Sigma/bill2/DSC02433.JPG

However, I´ve still to install the limiting straps, so I´m hoping that by restricting the droop one one side will lessen the inclination of the axle relative the frame, thus elimintaing the rub of the tire on the shock. We´ll see, if that doesn´t work, I´ll move the bump stops up higher.........

billj,
is yours a samurai t/c?
could you please explain where did you take the bits to build it?
thanks

billj,
is yours a samurai t/c?
could you please explain where did you take the bits to build it?
thanks


Yes, it´s a Samurai case. The gears were all custom cut based on measurements taken from the original gears and the case. A little CAD work and machining resulted in the gearset, which is working very, very well....... :)

IIRC right now we have 300cc's of oil and 180 PSI in the rear shocks on Bugzuki. Keep in mind though that these are 12" shocks and are mounted at much more of an angle than yours. I'd say just start with what they have out of the box and adjust from there.

Dallas

Thanks, that´s what I´m gonna do. The rears seem to be about right, the fronts are a little low. I´m just gonna pump them up with nitro and test it. If it´s driveable, Ill run it in this weekend´s comp.........

Thanks........

Subject: Askby.com

Muito obrigado por comprar através do Askby.com.
Thank you for purchasing from Askby.com

As informações sobre sua compra estão abaixo:
Information about your puchase below:


04 Super Swamper Tire TSL SX SAM75 38.5x14.5-15

===============================================

Obs.: Seu pedido está confirmado e já foi encaminhado,
Observations: Your request was confirmed and already sent.

assim que despacharmos informaremos por e-mail o dia
as such we will send you information via e-mail about

provável para a entrega no Brasil.
the probable delivery day in Brazil.

aprox. 10 a 15 dias após despacho de Miami.
Aproxiamtely 10 to 15 days after shipping from Miami.

Obrigado por comprar Askby.com ! Thank you for shopping with Askby.com!

Any Questions?