Chevy M/C swap to Nissan pics

[TRed]

http://www.crawltech.com/albums/SAS-Frontier/my_chit_041.sized.jpg The install was so easy, it can't really be considered tech. Just make the holes from your '77 3/4 ton chevy master cylinder a little bit oblong to accomadate the smaller spread of the mounting bolts on the Nissan booster. I used a file, and the stock mounting bolts and nuts went back on. The pic doesn't show the re-routed lines, but that was easy as removing two lines and reconnecting them in another position.:Dhttp://www.crawltech.com/albums/SAS-Frontier/my_chit_042.sized.jpg

[imacsae]

Well good to know it went in so easy. You must be doing this to run disc brakes all the way around right. I remember there was a kit made to run disc brakes on the rear axle on an X. I remember it was very expensive. Possibly a larger master cylinder was included and this could be a way to drive the price down.

[TRed]

I am swapping in a rear axle with disc brakes, but this is for the big chevy calipers on the front d44 axle I used. I will probly need a proportioning valve for the disc brake swap so I can adjust the brakes accordingly.

[PathyKid]

I'm running 4 wheel disk on my 44/9" with caddy calipers and have no problem locking up all 4 wheels with my stock 92 pathfinder master cylinder and booster. It sucked at first but after playing aroudn with the piston pusher thing??? it worked perfectly. I'm also running a proportioning valve but i probably could have gotten away without it. Did you try it with the stock mc? I know theres been lots of talk of this swap but i personally have found no problem with the stock setup.

[TRed]

With mine the brakes work very well, it's just that they are going to the floor before they give good pedal feel. I did try to adjust them, but they didn't feel right. I have a '99 Frontier, so maybe there is a difference in the size of the stock MC. Mine was really dinky in comparison to my old Hardbody unit as I recall. In any case, the swap is so easy and cost so little that it was like no biggie to try. I will check the brakes and report back here with my findings shortly.

[D-RAT]

Sounds like they just needed bled again if the pedal was going all the way down.

[PathyKid]

i was having the same problem with the pedal going to the floor. To fix it i twisted out the rod that pushes the piston so that the breaks owudl engage quicker. I found they by time the pedal hit the floor the piston was barely engaged. This took my tuning as at first i did it to much and my brakes locked up hen they got hot, but eventually i got it and tey worked perfectly now. When not runnign the pedal will hit the floor sometimes and it does takes pumps to get hard, but on the road driving i haven't noticed ay problem with the performance.

If you dont know which piece i'm talking about unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and there wil be a rod with an end that is adjustable. Just play with that.

D-Rat ... in my case i thought it was bleeding to ...then after spending about 3 hours bleeding this system over and over i realized that it had to be somehitng else.

[D-RAT]

good tip....thanks. I've got waggy calipers on my axle, which I'm sure are similar, if not the same as the Chevy units. Guess it'll be my turn to deal with this one in another couple months.

[TRed]

Well, I spent all day on this crap and have this to say. FAWK! :flipoff2: Seriously though, I had some difficulty with making this work. The Napa locally didn't have the adapters needed, so I went further and got some. I used new lines and a bender. I used 2 WeatherHead part number 1443 to adapt my new lines to my metric brake distribution manafold(or block of aluminum). I used a short line with a 1/2" end for the M/C hole for the front brakes, fitted with a 3/8ths coupling to another short line, that went into the 1443. On the rear cylinder, I used adapter 7912 to fit into the 9/16ths hole, and a 20" line from that to the other 1443. All the lines are 3/16ths diameter with 3/8ths threaded ends.That concludes the swap details as far as fittings and parts needed, other than fluid and a 3/8th's flare wrench and the bender. As far as the brakes working, well, I have had some trouble, but will detail the results of my efforts by tommarrow hopefully. ;)

[McSoo]

You better hurry the fawk up. You only have 16 days before the AZ run.

[TRed]

Geezus, that AZ run gets earlier every year. I won't make it, I don't have my chit dialed in yet. I have been cutting and rewelding some spring mounts, I didn't get them on just right, but I am loving driving this thing around!

[McSoo]

What are you talking about? It's almost a month later this year than last! You pussy. Just get it together and wheel. Mine is all apart right now too. Just work faster. :D