I have a tube chassis ranger with a DANA 44 TTB OUT OF A 85' F150. I have about 18" of travel up front 90% of which is downward. The problem im having is I keep blowing the center u-joint. At full droop the u joint is operating at just under 45 deg. So I've ben thinking of putting a cv in the middle. I'd found one out of a front drive shaft on a fullsize dodge in the yard, but i dont know exactly what model. I clearanced it to work at about 50 deg. max. What i dont know is will it survive!
I'd like to have some more input befor i spend the money on having axel's made so it will work. any idea's?

my guess is that if it does work it will not work at that angle at much over 10 mph.

Curious to know how you are going to attach the cv to the shafts? Aren't the yokes for that joint and the shafts all one piece? I could be wrong, memory is sorta fuzzy. Have checked out what the 4x4 race trucks are doing? I know those guys have tons of travel.

Kevo

the shaft from the pumpkin i am going to weld a splined stub on (dont worry I am going to machine it so it will be pressed together straight the tig welded with nickel rod) then I'll bolt the four bolt flange that originally was on the t-case to the stub. the other end I'll machine and press then tig a longer thicker slip off the back of a 208 in a chev. 1/2 ton to the drive shaft end of the cv. the axel to the wheel will have to be shortened, so I'll cut out the extra length out of the middle. ill machine a small (1/2") stub to press into the other half of the axel then bevel and weld them together. the idea with welding all the axels is to find out if the cv will last, if it does ill get axels made as I break them.

I can tell you this if it does droop to 50 degrees and you apply ANY torque to it you will break it, I cannot imagine any automotive CV holding up at that angle. You need to consider one of these 80 degree CV's from HighAngle Driveline, while not suited for highway use it should work just fine for a front crawler app.

http://www.highangledriveline.com/DSC0001.jpg

why not just go to a 1 piece shaft? :confused:

Dallas

Ok,

Are you talking about the Driveshaft joint, or the center axle-ujoint?

ahh yes TTB, if hes talkin about that center axle joint i got no guidance to offer.

Dallas

THERE ARE A COUPLE OF THINGS TO CONSIDER JUST BECAUSE IT CLEARS AT 50 DEG. DOES NOT MEAN I'LL USE IT AT THAT ANGLE. I PROBABLE WONT USE IT PAST 43 DEG. AND THE ONLY TIME IT IS AT THAT ANGLE IS WHEN THERE IS NO LOAD ON THE SUSP. (SUCH AS IF IT IS ON A LIFT OR WHEN IT COUNTS WHEN YOU JUMP THE THING.
THE 80 DEG. CV FROM HIGH ANGLE IS HUGE THERE IS NO WAY TO FIT IT BETWEEN THE BEAMS.
WHAT IS IT THAT IS GOING TO BLOW ON THE JOINT? IF IT IS THE BALL AND CUP, IVE ALREADY HAD A I PIECE CUP MADE OUT OF BRONZE THAT IS MORE LIKE A PISTON i FIGURED IT WOULD HELP KEEP IT FROM SPITTING OUT, THE THING IS ABOUT 3/4 IN. LONG.
BUT I STILL WANT TO KNOW WHAT IS THE WEAK POINT OF THEASE JOINTS, SO I CAN MAYBE INPROVE ON THEM. ONE OTHER THING I HAVE ALREADY BEEN CONCIDERING IS REAMING THE YOLKS OUT FOR A BIGGER JOINT. i CAN GET OP TO A 297 SIZE JOINT IN IT AS LONG AS I GET CAPS THAT HAVE SNAP RINGS ON THEM ON THE INSIDE.