: Front Drive line woes


Jackass Meote
01-04-2002, 01:06 AM
I need to figure out a cheap fix on my driveline. I have had nothing but bad luck. it is too short so it pulls apart all the damn time. I already have (2) 5/8 " spacers in it. I have some 4 degree shims to add to the stack. I don't have a lot of cash to work with so I am trying to be inginuetive.:smokin: Somehow,the nut that holds the front flange to the transfercase backed off. which was weird because it doesn't appear to have ever been removed. A week later I sheared off all 4 bolts that hold the drive line to the same flange. I need some inspiration.:smokin:

Wilson
01-04-2002, 01:51 AM
I would advise ordering one from onetoncv, but since you're on a budget, you can make one with the parts you have and some receiver tubing and some 2x2x.25 wall, box tubing. weld the outside corners on the 2x2 and grind them down until it slides snugly into the receiver tubing. It'll make noise and vibrate, but function just fine and give you plenty of slip. I made one for about $30, including u joint, but hated the way it vibrated and made noise, so I ordered one form Jess and love it. Search square drivelines, lots of toy guys run them

OOP'S
01-04-2002, 06:07 AM
Make a square D-shaft. It also sounds like your u-joint is binding. You need to change your pinion angle. When I first did the SAS mine was binding. I had Con-Ferr shackles up front. I called Jon at AP and he told me to get some shackles that were 1 1/2" over stock instead of the long ones. I did that and it moved my pinion up about 8 degrees and I had no mo binding. Do a search on the square D-shaft and you will see how to make one. These d-shaft are for low speed rocking.:usa: :cool: :usa:

camo
01-04-2002, 07:59 AM
build a square shaft. (use the search function, all the info is there)

upgrade to the larger style flange bolts. ( ream the holes to the exact size)

lower your rig if the ujoints are binding. (or get dual cases and a high pinion) basicaly you either need a longer drive shaft or a lower rig.