OK, Search on the BB hasn't netted the result I'm looking for, yet. And the PBB search appears to be down (or atleast it wasn't working for me just now.

For those of you that have done, researched or helped with rear discs on a Scout II D44. Put the rotor on the outside or inside of the wheel axle flange?

Plan is SII rotors (since I have them) and AA manf. weld on brackets, Chev caliper. The J-Weed method was to enlarge the center hole of the rotor, and place in on the back-side of the axle flange. then you have to cut and jury-rig the backing plate/bearing retainer... seems like a PITA but not that bad.

Other thought I had was to put the rotor on the OUTSIDE of the flange after turning the OD of the flange down to fit in the rotor hat. Simple "slip on" rotor.

Pro's cons?? My concern with the outside method is the rotor surface may be spaced off too much to get the weld on brackets to fit. The inside method just seems like more work and harder to replace parts as needed.


Course I have no access to machine tools at this time :mad: otherwise I would have just experimented with both ways.

I run the rotor on the outside. It will also help to retain the wheel in the event the bearings fry. Use F150 rotors, better then screwing with SII stuff even when you have it on hand.

If you run the rotor on the inside then you have to deal with pressing the studs in/out to replace the axle.

Originally posted by jdjanda
I run the rotor on the outside. It will also help to retain the wheel in the event the bearings fry. Use F150 rotors, better then screwing with SII stuff even when you have it on hand.

If you run the rotor on the inside then you have to deal with pressing the studs in/out to replace the axle.

Ya, I was leaning that way, and have a set of ford rotors.. I think.


did you have to turn the axle flange down?

You do have to turn the axle flange down before they will fit in "most" rotors (there may be an application out there somewhere that will work with turning the flange). I read one guys write up where he just put the rear end up on jackstands, started the truck, put the tranny in gear and used a grinder on the flange while they were spinning. Poor man's lathe :D

:flipoff2:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1997416

Originally posted by Old Scout
:flipoff2:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1997416

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:



True, but its cheaper for me to put discs on this thing then to put together and reserect rear drums, and for this... um application (and budget)... a rear D44 is all I need.... for now.



I don't need a parking brake.

Originally posted by Mechanos
I read one guys write up where he just put the rear end up on jackstands, started the truck, put the tranny in gear and used a grinder on the flange while they were spinning. Poor man's lathe :D




hmmmmm :idea:



that might just fit right in with my plans... :redneck:

Hate to bust the bubble but I measured last night in the lathe and the flange has to be turned down .400 and then it is way to close to the studs for my liking. I mean there is almost no meat left for strength.

I think that the Chevy 1/2 ton rotor redrilled to 5 on 5.5 is the best way to go. No grinding or maching if ya get the rotors predrilled.

I will let ya know on the welding of the brackets Mark.

John

Originally posted by The Fleckster
Hate to bust the bubble but I measured last night in the lathe and the flange has to be turned down .400 and then it is way to close to the studs for my liking. I mean there is almost no meat left for strength.

kind of a moot point right now since I just threw on a set of drums I dug up (forgot I had them :D)but to continue this actuall TECH conversation.... what would be the differance in the "meat" left behind compared to a front hub??? Same pattern, same amount of materal left behind...

hmm, check that, close, but not the same. I'll have to measure. I know that there is less meat on the front wheel hub than the rear axle flange, but have not actually measured it. Course the odds of ripping 5-wheel studs out of a turned down flange when bolted to a wheel.... very slim.

I think that the Chevy 1/2 ton rotor redrilled to 5 on 5.5 is the best way to go. No grinding or maching if ya get the rotors predrilled.

So the "hat" area of a Chevy rotor is larger than a Ford rotor?? That seems odd but worth a measure... Were do you get the rotors pre drilled from???

here you go. scout 44 I put under my old jeep

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=118833&highlight=aa

Okay,

Here are pics to back up my no machine down the flange stand.
If you look closley you will see the mark where the cutter in the lathe touched. Thats how much has to come off to fit it inside the ford rotor. Plus the ford rotor has too big of wheel stud holes that do not self center on the studs. You will need to do something else to get the rotor to center.

Here are some pics of the flange.

more

Here are some after shots of the finished rig. Caddy calipers of corse for e-brake.

This all part of a 3800 doller conversion for a customer

another

Last one

Jeez Mark, Cant me and old Scout keep some secrets without giving out all our sources. The rotors I bought are $90 each plus shipping......"bent over my ass is hurting". Its a Chevy 1/2 ton truck rotor thats drilled 5 on 5.5 but the holes are the exact size of the outside of the thread on the studs so it centers on the flange. This guy has the factory drill them to his specs, but i cant even get his source so i am still looking.

I think my kits will be redrilled shelf items so they will have 2 sets of holes...but that lightens them for racing right:D

I'm trying to figure our why the outer 1/2" or so of the rotor "hat" it turned down....



seems no reason for it unless someone needed a place to clamp the lathe to turn the inside.


hmm, so Chevy rotors have a larger dia. "hat" than Fords... migth have to check on this.



you can get Chevy rotors and re-drill them for less than $90 ea, even at the prices you charge (:flipoff2:), if you have to tools....

Doesn't $3800 buy any paint? :flipoff2:

I have to agree with old scout. why put all this effort into a 44 when you're going to want a 60 or 14 anyway.

Yea I agree Mark, $90 seems crazy but....Thats what i paid as time was a concern. Next time like i say i am gonna buy quanity chev rotors and have the CNC mill redrill them.

Hammerlock.......Open your eyes buddy..:flipoff2: There is gray hammerite there.:D

Mark, no reason to Look into anything, thats what works period.
Either way you gotta machine something, mise well be the more replacable thing of the two. However i can see it now, some backyarder is gonna drill his rotors with a hand drill without clamping the rotors together as a pattern at the least and come back with "It didn,t self center" and we are gonna have to make another Polish Turd award.:D

which proportioning vavle did you use with those?

still fit 15" wheels with the caddy caliper?

Originally posted by The Fleckster
and we are gonna have to make another Polish Turd award.:D

Its polished turd !
Not Polish Turd . :flipoff2:

You Polish?? I know i was just fing with the board. Dame cant even have any fun here:flipoff2:

NO FUN, JUST TECH!


:flipoff2: