I got around to swapping in a wider 86+ rear axle after destroying the stock 85 one and an axleshaft. It has decent pads on it but here's the deal. Drove it today for the first time in 3 weeks. When I initially push on the brakes, it sinks almost to the floor. It will stop, just takes forever. It doesn't go completely to the floor, and there are no leaks in the system. If I pump it once, it firms up quite a bit. The third pump, it acts like normal, pre axle swap. It will hold pressure fine after the third pump, it doesn't bleed down like a leak. I've bled it twice, and there's no air to be found. I did the LSPV, D rear, Pass rear, Front drivers, pass drivers. I haven't tried the correct service manual order, but I don't think there's air in the system. The only wierd thing I did notice is when bleeding the LSPV, the fluid was much darker than the rest. It is the original 85 one, didn't change it. I have the rod cut and zip tied all the way in the up position for max braking. I know it's something simple, but any suggestions? Kongs Mark says it's the LSPV and to bypass it. If I do this, how has everyone plugged the line marked F on the LSPV that heads back up front? I know the top one of the valve goes right into the rear flex line. I haven't pulled the drums off yet to see if they're really far out of adjustment, but will way far off rears do that, especially with the rod tied up since they're getting a lot of fluid? I don't have a parking brake hooked up either, cut the crossmember out when I did the drivetrain lift.
Any other suggestions as far as adjustment of the rears or pics of bypasses on the LSPV?

Did you bleed you master cylinder?
Brake booster? (I think you can bleed that:confused: )

It sounds to me like your rear brakes need adjustment, like they are too loose. I usually put the rear axle up on stands, and use a brake tool to tighten the star adjuster until I can just hear the shoes start to drag on the drums when I spin them.

I've also had this happen on my Cruiser after a day of wheeling, brakes were taking 2-3 pumps to get stiff. Pulled the drums off, they were full of mud. Hosed it out, then blasted it with an air blowgun, and lubed everything. Good as new.

I'm pretty sure the order for bleeding is LR -> RR -> RF -> LF -> LSPV.

When I took the LSPV off my truck I took the return line off the "T" up by the front passenger side and put a plug in the "T".:D :usa: :D

I'm gonna pull it apart tomorrow when I do the header, just wanted a few more ideas. I think it's the adjustment of them also. I can hear the drivers side piston working, the passenger side isn't near as loud in operation. I know the pads are decent and clean, I cleaned them when I put the axleshafts in. I don't think I can get to my star adjuster with the lift blocks in place.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't they self adjust with a few pulls of the emergency brake and backing up? I don't know why this sticks in my head, but it does for some reason. Since I don't have the emergency brake hooked up, I can't test this theory.

Keep the ideas coming. I just can't believe the LSPV would go bad after sitting?

Originally posted by pmurf1
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't they self adjust with a few pulls of the emergency brake and backing up? I don't know why this sticks in my head, but it does for some reason. Since I don't have the emergency brake hooked up, I can't test this theory.
The parking brake adjusts them when it's applied, and since you don't have it hooked up that means it's not adjusting at all. The reverse thing doesn't apply to our trucks, they just don't work like that. You'll have to either figure out how to get the parking brake hooked up again, or you'll have to manually adjust them every few weeks.
Originally posted by pmurf1
if they're really far out of adjustment, but will way far off rears do that, especially with the rod tied up since they're getting a lot of fluid?
That's exactly what's happening, since the valve is full open all the fluid volume is being used to move those rear shoes to the drums. As you pump the pedal you build more pressure since the shoes don't immediately move all the way back to rest, and thus the pedal feels more solid.

The lever on the drum that holds the ebrake. Pull it out about 5 times in a row, to simulate the ebrake cable pulling. This will adjust the brakes. Worked on mine. Good luck, I am headed to the White Tanks.:D

May I butt into your post, since I have a related problem?

I did the Chevy leaf swap and on my first wheelin test of the leafs, I pulled up on a good sized rock. I heard a 'pop' and found that my E-brake quit working w/ the 'pop'. I looked under the truck and see brake fluid around the LSPV (WTF is this....don't worry, I'll do a search) . My first thought is I busted a brake line. But brakes still work. Anyway, what I want to know, is what broke (LSPV?), and how to make it work w/o breaking again? As of now, I have NO rear brakes working!!!

In the near future, I plan to add Buggy leafs rather than Double Shackles, so should I bag the stock e-brake due to more travel than the stock system can handle? And, how do Driveshaft E-Brakes work without adjusting the shoes, if you aren't using the stock E-Brake?

TIA!! Have a :beer: , on me!

OK, i've been reading! This HAS been covered ALOT! I got the LSPV and the fixes, so I guess I am ready to go there. I still don't understand what broke though. It looks like I am just going to bypass the LSPV and add an Adj. Prop. Valve in the future.

Originally posted by the General
In the near future, I plan to add Buggy leafs rather than Double Shackles, so should I bag the stock e-brake due to more travel than the stock system can handle? And, how do Driveshaft E-Brakes work without adjusting the shoes, if you aren't using the stock E-Brake?

TIA!! Have a :beer: , on me!

OK, i've been reading! This HAS been covered ALOT! I got the LSPV and the fixes, so I guess I am ready to go there. I still don't understand what broke though. It looks like I am just going to bypass the LSPV and add an Adj. Prop. Valve in the future.
I still have my e brake and lspv in tact after my 63" chevy swap and I have buggy's too, they both work fine, with no problems. I spaced the lspv out from the frame an inch and a half, when I first put the buggy's in so I could fit a u bolt behind it to secure the buggy leaf to the frame. I left it spaced out when I did the chevy swap and bolted the buggy's to my new boxed lower section of frame. Everything should work just fine

Originally posted by the General
May I butt into your post, since I have a related problem?

I did the Chevy leaf swap and on my first wheelin test of the leafs, I pulled up on a good sized rock. I heard a 'pop' and found that my E-brake quit working w/ the 'pop'. I looked under the truck and see brake fluid around the LSPV (WTF is this....don't worry, I'll do a search) . My first thought is I busted a brake line. But brakes still work. Anyway, what I want to know, is what broke (LSPV?), and how to make it work w/o breaking again? As of now, I have NO rear brakes working!!!

In the near future, I plan to add Buggy leafs rather than Double Shackles, so should I bag the stock e-brake due to more travel than the stock system can handle? And, how do Driveshaft E-Brakes work without adjusting the shoes, if you aren't using the stock E-Brake?

TIA!! Have a :beer: , on me!

OK, i've been reading! This HAS been covered ALOT! I got the LSPV and the fixes, so I guess I am ready to go there. I still don't understand what broke though. It looks like I am just going to bypass the LSPV and add an Adj. Prop. Valve in the future.


:D just a thought on what might have happened did one of your wheel cylinders come apart? ive had it happen before where there is a problem with the e-brake and when it is extended to far it will cause the wheel cylider to come apart. when you flex your vehicle maybe that pulled the cabled and applied the e-brake to much. just a thought :D

I'd say your brakes need adjusting. You can do it manually just by pulling on the E-brake levers. You should be able to hear the adjusters click about once each time you pull the lever until they are adjusted (then they will stop clicking). If you had the adjusters turned all the way in, then it may take a LOT more than 5 pulls to get them adjusted.

You can still do the adjustment through the little access hole, but thats a PITA and I only do that if they need to be loosened to get the drum off (and yes it can be done w/ blocks).

Also before you do all this, pull the drums off and pull the ebrake levers while watching to make sure the adjusters are working properly... one or two clicks of the adjuster for each pull.

just got my SAS done and got rid of the e-brakes(all-pro disc) anyway, do the brake pads drag when you get them adjusted out. This is my first toyota, I've only messed with chevy's and jeeps. I tried to adjust the rears up by pulling on the e-brake levers, but still don't hear any drag on the shoes, also they are still clicking on the adjusters. I pulled each side at least 20 times. Do I just keep adjusting until they don't click anymore or what. By the way, the shoes and drums are like new and clean. Any help much appreciated. Sorry to break into your topic.

Everyone is butting into this post, so I doubt its a worry! By the time its done, it'll be the one to look to for Rear Brake info!

Thanks for the ideas everyone, I'll go mess with my probs tomorrow.

I pulled the e-brake levers out about twenty times today. It felt like it firmed up the pedal, but I didn't drive it yet to verify it. I put my header on last night and all I have done is to the cat. Ordered my Flowmaster and some pipe from Summit to complete it this week. Don't think the neighbors would appreciate me tooling around the neighborhood with a wide open header and no brakes! I'll post back with what it was when I get the exhaust done this week. Thanks for all the help so far.

Originally posted by locrwln
Do I just keep adjusting until they don't click anymore or what.
Exactly.

Maybe.... leaky wheel cylinders in the new axle??? Or maybe a leak somewhere else??? Your brake pedal sounds like mine. I have a leak in the front left between the hard line and SS line at the flare.

another thing to check ,if you donor axle has been sitting a while,is make sure both wheel cyl. are working correctly. If one side of one wheel cyl. is froze up it will screw with your pedal travel but look fine when you inspect it. With the drums off have someone slowly, and i mean slowly, step on pedal and watch to make sure both sides of cyl. moves the same.. make sure you dont push to far or you will push them apart, just enough to see they all travel the same.good luck

also make sure the parking brake levers that are in the drums are actually working. mine were rusted and not working due to a small brake cylinder leaking. currently just using 1 side of my parking brake , but seems to hold just fine. :eek:

Well you guys were right as usual. I pulled the levers about 30 more time on each side and guess what? I have brakes now. I just couldn't believe that they were that far out of adjustment. Thanks a bunch everyone.