i have a 75 eb with 3.5 inches of lift, 33's, and all poly C bushings. The problem is it won't drive strait. It has a steering stabilizer, and the tire pressure is equal. Well boys where do I start, I want this to be the daily driver because I have another for 'wheelin. If I cant get it to dive right I'm going back to driving my (I hate to even say this word)Chevy with 15 inches and 44's every day at least it goes where I point it. Any and all input is welcome!!!

Here are some things to check.

First is there any play in your stearing linkage? Have somebody hold the tires (w/ engine off) and move the stearing wheel back and forth. Should be pretty tight.

Second, there is a screw on the back of your box. It tightens and loosens to adjust sensitivity. Too tight and it's squirly. Too loose and it wanders. Be careful and keep track of how/which way you move it if you do.

-Jack

How tight is to tight on the worm gear in the steering box? I turned it in about 1 1/2 turns. It's not so much that it doesn't respond to the steering as just takes off in one direction or another while driving down the road at highway speed. My wife says it looks like we're driving the General Lee (remember Bo and Luke sawing back and forth on the steering wheel). Thanks for the info, keep it coming.

I'm unsure, but I think loosening it makes it "tighter". If it goes it's own way, then the steering is too loose. If it's too tight, when you move the wheel at all, it almost over-steers. Very sensitive.

If your linkage is all tight, (I'd check this first) then that will probably help you out.

-Jack

So I'm going to have to "loosen" the worm gear to make the steering more resopnsive. That doesn't sound right but what the hey I'll try it. Thanks for the info. BTW the steering linkage is tight. Any possibility of the box itself just being wore out? The body has 133k on it.

What degree are your c-bushings?? If you don't have a high enough castor angle, then your rig is gonna handle like a shopping cart. Also, if you installed the bushings upside down, then your angles are really bad....

They are thought to be 4 degree C bushings and as far as installed correctly god only knows because I bought the rig already lifted. Somebody give me a degree on the pinion and i will go check it out.

I'm not sure on how to tighten up the steering (whether to tighen or loosen the bolt). I just know that's what controls it.

The box being worn out is a possibility as well.

The castor being the problem is true. It seems to be different from one Bronco to the next. Mine has 5.5" coils on it with the 4 degree bushings and it handles like a sports car (well steering wise anyways).

Mine has 3.5" WH coils, and 7 degree c-bushings, and still wanders a bit.....But, mine is also in an 89 Ranger, and I'm running hiem joints in place of tie rod ends. So I guess every rig is differant:D .

Take it to a local shop, and have them put it on an alignment rack. Most shops will only charge you about $20 to check all your angles.

Brian--

My guess is that your front axle is offset to one side or the other. Adjustable trackbars are the perfect solution. If a drop bracket wasn't added for the trackbar, that's probably the source of the pull.

When I put my 44 in, I made the trackbar mount the perfect length. It tracked perfectly. Then I added a V8 and the springs settled some. Now it pulls a bit. I need to rebuild the bracket, or get an adjustable trackbar.

If its not pulling, just wondering, I'd suspect the caster angle or too much toe out.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 1uglyranger
[B]Mine has 3.5" WH coils, and 7 degree c-bushings, and still wanders a bit.....But, mine is also in an 89 Ranger, and I'm running hiem joints in place of tie rod ends. So I guess every rig is differant:D .

When you say wanders a bit does that mean from one side of the road to the other, because that what I got. Sometimes managable sometimes scary. I'll have the alignment boys look at it. No quick fix cureall that anybodys heard of?

Whats the ideal length of the track bar, (stupid question, thats why there adjustable)I guess whats the ideal position of the axle? Dead center, compaired to what, I might be retarded, I just want this to drive decent, something I never cared about before.

for the adjustable track-bar, you want the axle centered under the vehicle - ie the tires are equal distance from the frame on each side.
I would say it sounds like alignment is your main problem. I finally got my 74 to drive straight - it was a combination of many factors, my caster was off as was my toe-in, my ball joints were loose, and my track bushings were loose too (the ball joints and track-bar bushings were only 1 year old)
I also played with my tire air pressure - for me 23psi front and 21psi rear is the most stable and also provides even wear on my 35" street tires. Changing the air pressure actually does effect my handling and wandering -even just 2psi.

I would be carefull on adjusting the worm gear as you can easily drive the adjuster into the worm gear too far and cause damage, sometimes the boxes are just too loose to be tighened up and need rebuilding or replacing.