Ok so my rear 44 is out and I have been contemplating on making an brace for it. So what do you guys thing about yours if you got one. Are they woth it or are they just a PITA on the trael and pictures whould be grate.

as Mr. Eavel one siad "Throw me a freken bone here"

do , the scout housings are prone to bending . its only .188 wall:smokin:

any tips on making one

is the band iron type good enugh?

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
any tips on making one

is the band iron type good enugh?

"band"?

My rear '44 came with a not-so-well designed truss. 1" round stock bent in a trapezoid shape (WTF were they thinking?) with the stand-offs in the the not-so-best positions to boot.. OTOH, I haven't broken it.

My front was untrussed.. now I have a new front end with.. 1" round trussing the underside, in a triangle pattern.

That should help keep me from taco'ing the front again.

For a trail rig, I'd go for an over-axle truss, instead of my under-axle trusses. I need max-strength with minimal-weight, which is best done with an under-axle truss. An over-axle might be heavier, but can be just as strong and won't impact ground clearance.

hmm got any pics?

Here's mine:

tube is 2" scd 40, metal between tube and axle is 1/4" steel plate.

http://www.snort4x4.com/~crash/rigs/travis/travis30.jpg
http://www.snort4x4.com/~crash/rigs/travis/travis31.jpg
http://www.snort4x4.com/~crash/rigs/travis/travis40.jpg

Don't mind the chrome diff cover.. it's only temporary until I come up with a thicker one. :D

looks beefy enough i don't think you will ever have a problem with a bent housing.

Originally posted by twaldher
Here's mine:

tube is 2" scd 40, metal between tube and axle is 1/4" steel plate.
Don't mind the chrome diff cover.. it's only temporary until I come up with a thicker one. :D

:flipoff2: I GUESS YOU REALLY CAN POLISH A TURD!!!:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
hmm got any pics?

http://walnut.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/moving/image8.jpg

Here's the rear someone else did (same DPO that tried to weld the springs to the axle instead of using U-bolts..)

To make it stronger, I've added stand-offs in the "corners" where the horizontal bar bends up to the axle ends.

A better design would be a big "V"..

I haven't taken pics of the front end yet - it's still sitting on saw horses in my garage.. the paint should be dry. I'll try to take a pic tonight.

kewel :) :)

um do you guys weld to the cast iron ?

I tryed bwelding to cast and it looked like pig shit no mater what seting was on the welder :/

Originally posted by Maine Jeepah


:flipoff2: I GUESS YOU REALLY CAN POLISH A TURD!!!:flipoff2:

lol... nah.. if you actually knew anything about a Wagoneer AMC20 you wouldn't be saying that

Different pumpkin design.. thicker tubes (like 3/8" or so), stronger R&P than a 44.. 29 spline so isn't a real difference between that and a 44 30 spline

bonus.. everyone bags them so they are DIRT CHEAP! $50 drum to drum

Originally posted by tsm1mt


http://walnut.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/moving/image8.jpg


WTF are you dragging that big rake behind you for? Is it lawnmowing day?:confused:

Originally posted by Paul Gagnon



WTF are you dragging that big rake behind you for? Is it lawnmowing day?:confused:


bwahahaha I was kida thinking the same

C'mon guys, give em a break...........Thats a road grader!

Originally posted by Paul Gagnon



WTF are you dragging that big rake behind you for? Is it lawnmowing day?:confused:


haa haa, on a trail rig... ya, that would be a HORRENDOUS mistake... but that is his race rig, under-axle clearance isn't such a big deal, but more strength in the housing is....


course, also in his defence, he didn't do it, the PO did..... or atleast thats what he claims :D :D


besides, its a corn-binder.... got to plow the fields somehow :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

You should really TIG weld to the cast section. A series of heating and cooling methods are needed to get a good weld on cast to prevent it from cracking.

Originally posted by Insayn
You should really TIG weld to the cast section. A series of heating and cooling methods are needed to get a good weld on cast to prevent it from cracking.

yea I was pratcing with some old cast piping today, I tryed heating it and tryed mig but it looked like pigen shit :confused:

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite



haa haa, on a trail rig... ya, that would be a HORRENDOUS mistake... but that is his race rig, under-axle clearance isn't such a big deal, but more strength in the housing is....


course, also in his defence, he didn't do it, the PO did..... or atleast thats what he claims :D :D


Thanks, Mark.

Yes, it is a terrible design, hanging down too far and using more material (weight) than it needs to be.

Howerver, when I dragged a couple of free Scouts home from the unkyard, this axle came in the pile, as shown in the pic.

Rather than cut the truss off and fab my own, I let it be.

I haven't hit it or dragged it yet. Even on limited slow-going 4x4 trips.

I also have a high-steer draglink, but kept the tie-rod in the stock location.

When I hit things, it's at 60mph.. the tie-rod is the least of my worries. :D

Note that the same PO that had the rear axle before me, also tried to WELD the rear axle to the SPRINGS because he didn't have U-bolts or something..


besides, its a corn-binder.... got to plow the fields somehow

Yep, nothing like dragging a plow behind you and STILL beating on the Jeeps. :flipoff2:

Here's the front end waiting to go in. I broke the first one at the pumpkin on the long side. Broke the center section and bent the end of the long (.5" thick, too) tube.

Trashed the 'shaft, bearings, carrier.. I got a short-side axle, long-side stub, and the gears.. that was it. :)

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic23.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic24.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic25.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic26.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic28.jpg

Sorry for the poor lighting.. I haven't sheetrocked the ceiling yet, so I don't have all of the lights mounted yet.

try a stick welder with a nickle rod this welds well on cast and is strong if you really want to mig it heat it up hot with a torch then weld at normal heat

Originally posted by twaldher

lol... nah.. if you actually knew anything about a Wagoneer AMC20 you wouldn't be saying that
Different pumpkin design.. thicker tubes (like 3/8" or so), stronger R&P than a 44.. 29 spline so isn't a real difference between that and a 44 30 spline
\

Sorry mistook that for a hopped up CJ version.
Know all about Waggy 20's...just bustin' chops...geez you'd think you would've just laughed that one off considering the company you are in.

Bustin' chops doesn't always equal ignorance...although frequently on this board it does. :flipoff2:

Still think it's a turd. Don't care how much crap you weld to it.
Don't cry. :rolleyes:
Just wheel it.
MJ

Originally posted by Maine Jeepah
\

Sorry mistook that for a hopped up CJ version.
Know all about Waggy 20's...just bustin' chops...geez you'd think you would've just laughed that one off considering the company you are in.

Bustin' chops doesn't always equal ignorance...although frequently on this board it does. :flipoff2:

Still think it's a turd. Don't care how much crap you weld to it.
Don't cry. :rolleyes:
Just wheel it.
MJ

LOL.. yeah.. I know.. It's not a rockwell, D60 or D70. A lot of people on this board deem to forget ath not everyone needs one, and that full width axles are not always a good thing. And thats the crowd I've heard it the most from. setting up that 20 was alot cheaper than choping a d60 and setting that one up.

normally I would have laughed it off.. but cought a lot of flack with those pictures. :D

Originally posted by tsm1mt


http://walnut.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/moving/image8.jpg



And some of you were hasselin' me about my "14 bolt w/33's" idea. This makes me feel much better.:D

Originally posted by twaldher
Here's mine:

tube is 2" scd 40, metal between tube and axle is 1/4" steel plate.

http://www.snort4x4.com/~crash/rigs/travis/travis40.jpg

Don't mind the chrome diff cover.. it's only temporary until I come up with a thicker one. :D

NOW THAT BRACING I LIKE!!!:smokin: :beer:

Originally posted by Cliffhanger


And some of you were hasselin' me about my "14 bolt w/33's" idea. This makes me feel much better.:D

Ask me how many times I've dragged it or it's caused me problems..

And I only run "little" 31" Goodyear Terras..

[QUOTE]Originally posted by twaldher
[B]

lWagoneer AMC20 you wouldn't be saying that

Different pumpkin design.. thicker tubes (like 3/8" or so),


WRONGWRONG :rasta:

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Thanks, Mark.

Yes, it is a terrible design, hanging down too far and using more material (weight) than it needs to be.

Howerver, when I dragged a couple of free Scouts home from the unkyard, this axle came in the pile, as shown in the pic.

Rather than cut the truss off and fab my own, I let it be.

I haven't hit it or dragged it yet. Even on limited slow-going 4x4 trips.

I also have a high-steer draglink, but kept the tie-rod in the stock location.

When I hit things, it's at 60mph.. the tie-rod is the least of my worries. :D

Note that the same PO that had the rear axle before me, also tried to WELD the rear axle to the SPRINGS because he didn't have U-bolts or something..



Yep, nothing like dragging a plow behind you and STILL beating on the Jeeps. :flipoff2:

Here's the front end waiting to go in. I broke the first one at the pumpkin on the long side. Broke the center section and bent the end of the long (.5" thick, too) tube.

Trashed the 'shaft, bearings, carrier.. I got a short-side axle, long-side stub, and the gears.. that was it. :)

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic23.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic24.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic25.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic26.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic28.jpg

Sorry for the poor lighting.. I haven't sheetrocked the ceiling yet, so I don't have all of the lights mounted yet.

does any one see what so bad about this truss

just looking to be edjucated

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot


does any one see what so bad about this truss

just looking to be edjucated

I'll start..

*I* don't see much wrong with the truss.

My negative criticism was directed to my rear-axle truss, that looks like a trapezoid.

As for the front..

It could be stronger by adding some thin plate between the truss bar and the axle tube. OTOH, it adds weight, and would slow me down in deep mud/water.

It could be put above the axle to improve ground clearance, but it would need to be heavier to be as strong.

For THIS rig, lighter is better, and stronger is better, so a light/strong under-axle truss works best.

The friend that set it up for me has been running one just like it under his EB for about 10 years with no problems.

I like where he put the stand-offs. Just inboard of where the U-bolts need to go (so I can get the U-bolts on), right next to the diff casting (on the long side) for strength and to avoid cast iron welding.

Then one in the middle of the longside for good measure.

He did weld the truss to the diff, only in a small area at the "bottom rear" (pinion side). I'm not sure what the argument is for that, but I like it. A little stronger, but the truss doesn't really *depend* on any steel welded to cast iron.

The real test will come in a month when I put my Scout a few feet in the air again. :D :D

Originally posted by tsm1mt




The real test will come in a month when I put my Scout a few feet in the air again. :D :D

yeah I remember that :eek: got the pic handy :D

why exactly are under-axle trusses better than over-axle trusses?details please

Originally posted by techguru73
[QUOTE]Originally posted by twaldher
[B]

lWagoneer AMC20 you wouldn't be saying that

Different pumpkin design.. thicker tubes (like 3/8" or so),


WRONGWRONG :rasta:

fine... go on thinking what you want... keeps those POS or so you say axles a helluva lot cheaper.

Truth is the Waggie AMC20 is not the same thing as the CJ AMC20, and it is not just the 1 piece axle thing.

See.. this is what I was talking about in an earlier message. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Nomorejagermeister
why exactly are under-axle trusses better than over-axle trusses?details please

They're stronger. Depends on your preference if you want to call it "better" :D

With an under-axle truss, when the axle ends try to bend upwards, center bend downwards, you're trying to STRETCH the steel - make it elongate.

With an over-axle truss, when the same thing happens, you're trying to SHRINK/shorten the steel.

It's possible that it will BUCKLE. Thus you need to add material/design it to be stronger to prevent buckling.

With an under-axle, it's hard to buckle the steel strap. It will have to stretch, or it'll have to push the differential up.. which is, of course, the whole idea - to keep the diff from going DOWN and making a smiley face.

Originally posted by twaldher
Here's mine:

Don't mind the chrome diff cover.. it's only temporary until I come up with a thicker one. :D

How load is it when that brace is bouncing off your gas tank? Looks like there's some scraping going on.

Originally posted by tsm1mt


They're stronger. Depends on your preference if you want to call it "better" :D

With an under-axle truss, when the axle ends try to bend upwards, center bend downwards, you're trying to STRETCH the steel - make it elongate.

With an over-axle truss, when the same thing happens, you're trying to SHRINK/shorten the steel.

It's possible that it will BUCKLE. Thus you need to add material/design it to be stronger to prevent buckling.

With an under-axle, it's hard to buckle the steel strap. It will have to stretch, or it'll have to push the differential up.. which is, of course, the whole idea - to keep the diff from going DOWN and making a smiley face.


what he siad :D ;)

remember to check the straightness of a housing after welding a big old truss on it especially the 1/4 inch plate style one. It is amazing how much the housing can warp from that.

Originally posted by Gordon
remember to check the straightness of a housing after welding a big old truss on it especially the 1/4 inch plate style one. It is amazing how much the housing can warp from that.

really http://www.theunholytrinity.org/cracks_smileys/contrib/blackeye/Eyecrazy.gif what about ewlding about an inch or so and then letting it cool then anuther inch