i got a cv driveshaft off an old cj(supposedly) and i'm wondering what cool little adapter thingy i need to make it work on the scout dana 20

Measure diameter and stickout, and count the splines of the d20 output shaft and take the cv driveshaft to your spicer dealer.

I've got one in front of me I bought last fall. Its fifty bucks at six states for the yoke. I won't work on anything but stock. I have a four inch lift and it wouldn't drop enough to keep from binding.

For a while I used a Ford CV shaft without any problems whatsoever. That was with a SOA with considerably more travel then a off the shelf lift kit.

Originally posted by DJForrestA
I've got one in front of me I bought last fall. Its fifty bucks at six states for the yoke. I won't work on anything but stock. I have a four inch lift and it wouldn't drop enough to keep from binding.

wha?

The driveshaft I have is froma wagoneer. It is a CV type and I had to get a CV yoke to attach it to my Dana 20. With my stock scout front axle I couldn't get it to mate because of my pinion angle. It bound up just sitting at regular lifted height. I'm swapping in chevy stuff soon so I hope I can get away with 4 inch spring over on chevy axles and no cut and turn. Any ideas? What degree shims can I get away with? My drivetrain is so all over the place I can't get it straight. Chevy motor and tranny, Scout transfer case, Chevy axles and ford and wagoneer drivelines? I'm sure there is worse but I can't keep it straight.

You'll have a pretty bad driveline angle. Buy a welder and a grinder and fix it.

you definitely need to cut and turn:rolleyes:

why would you try to avoid it?

Someone posted that they did the same thing with no cut and turn and it works great. I figured I'd try it and if it works great if not I'll cut and turn. I have no idea how its done and am a little spooked of the prospect doing it myself. No one in this area will touch it with a ten foot pole. I've gone to different fab shops and they all say no way. Seems simple enough but I'm a bit intimidated. I figure if the guys that weld for a living won't touch it I shouldn't be experimenting with it. I wish we had a real 4x4 shop here.

The reason they won't touch it comes down to one word...... liability. Too many fuckin' blood sucking lawyers in this country. It would seem that no one is ever responsible for their own actions anymore..... you can always pay a lawyer to pin it on someone else.

Your the man. I see it every day people want some to blame for their problems. I'm in the middle of opening a dance club right now and that is the only thing that scares me is lawyers. Too bad really because usually only people in the wrong hide behind them. I'll find a place to do it for me. I heard there are some good shops in Salt Lake and thats only 4 hours south of me.

If you have tubbed it and done the RS yourself IMO you should be able to cut and turn yourself. There are about a million threads that detail it out with a few different approaches pretty clearly.

If you beat on them knuckles enough you will really get that nekked lady air freshener dancing a hula :D

Rusty just posted some pics of new holes he drilled in his front fangs, if you have a similar RS you could play with your caster/pinion angle by changing the shackle length or mount position, and where the hole is drilled in the fang.

I might give it a try since the chevy axles are on the ground and it won't give me down time on my scout. I have to take the right knuckle off anyway for my flat top knuckle. The tubbs were easy just a sawzall and some square boxes. I have all the parts for the RS but I haven't acutally installed it yet. I should amend my description to make that clearer. Maybye I'll run no fangs or would that hurt my pinion angle? I figured If I did do a cut and turn I'd turn the pinion 6 degrees and use 4 degree shims. 10 degrees should be plenty?

Originally posted by DJForrestA
I might give it a try since the chevy axles are on the ground and it won't give me down time on my scout. I have to take the right knuckle off anyway for my flat top knuckle. The tubbs were easy just a sawzall and some square boxes. I have all the parts for the RS but I haven't acutally installed it yet. I should amend my description to make that clearer. Maybye I'll run no fangs or would that hurt my pinion angle? I figured If I did do a cut and turn I'd turn the pinion 6 degrees and use 4 degree shims. 10 degrees should be plenty?

dude, you thinking WAY to much into this.


you can't do the cut-n-turn WITH OUT doing your RS first. You need to find out what angle your springs are at when its all said and done first, THEN set your desired pinion angle (whether is be by welding on shims and/or grinding the perches to the angle you need them).

THEN set the caster angle (and not too much only a couple degrees are required).

Easiest and best way to do it all is ON THE TRUCK.


And "fangs" are a relative term. Mine have been called "fangs", but they don't hang any lower than a stock forward shackle arrangement. If you get *too* short, the spring angle becomes pretty extreme (you need a certain length at the shackle ends, so it WILL be farther from the frame than the stock fixed point).

Don't get hung up in the "no lift RS" BS... build what you think looks right and works right, then level the back to match.

You need a new yoke. Take your current yoke off and count the splines (either 10 or 26). Then go get a CV yoke with that many splines ~ shaft size is like 1 1/8"

I got them for $70 ~ but you may find them cheaper locally.