I'm going at lunch to check out a 76 FJ40, what areas of the tub and frame do I need to check for rust:question:


Other areas of concern before I purchase:question:


Help me out here guys, I know there's a ton of Cruiser knowledge here:D

I can tell you from my cruiser that the rear channel under the rear doors is the worst, the rocker panels were a close second, and had I not cleaned out the frame rails I am sure those would be a problem eventually (maybe another 20 plus years but still).

The rear is usually the worst due in part to the fact that the front tires and rear tires spray any road moisture or water up there and we all know that Japanese metal rusts faster than you can sand it.

I just finished stripping everything out of my tub and pulling it off the frame (its a goner).

Frame rust really wasn't that bad anywhere, with the worst part being the middle section of the rear crossmember/bumper.

Here are what I found as teh worst parts on the body:

1) Rear quarter panels and wheel wells. Mine were completely gone. I just pulled my roll cage mounts out of the rusted sheet metal (scary).
2) Inside the door sills
3) Front driver and passenger floor pans
4) Floor pan section near rear tailgate doors

So, I guess that pretty much ends up being the whole damn tub :D

Bottom line, make sure you can actually see the metal/paint in all these areas. Pull up any mats, etc.. that may be covering anything, look for bondo, and be suspicious of new paint jobs.

Good luck.

Early last SAT I went to look at an FJ40 for sale here in Northern VA; truck was a 1976 that the owner bought less than a year ago (for $12.5, let's just say he got HOSED) and now wants to sell. From 100 yards away, it was a pretty little thing, sitting on OME suspension and sporting a clean paint job. But as I got closer, the excrement started hitting the extraction unit!

Rust was coming through (from the inside out) at both lower corners of the tub (curved section, under the reflectors), at the driver side rocker panel (right above the step) and through the line of spot welds above the rear wheel wells. The rear channel had obviously been replaced at some point. The worst part was that I couldn't check the rear floor because it had Dynamat glued to it; the Dynamat was covered with carpet.

For this area, this wasn't a bad truck, it ran well, had a solid frame, a clean interior, and some improvements. That said, I told he guy who asked me to look at it that I didn't think it was worth more than $6K, certainly not the $9.5K that the owner is asking. At this time of year, it's probably worth even a little less than that, maybe $5.5K.

well, I checked it out. It turned out to be a 71 (hey, I saw it from the highway) The frame rust all looked looked like surface rust and somebody had repainted everything and put in new carpets and painted the motor.

I could already see rust bubbles coming back through the paint and there was some spots around the top rim of the tub that were rusted through. It looked pretty damn good for a 71, original f motor with 3 on the tree. The guy wants $6,000 for it, I guess thats why its been there for over a year.

I'll pass, I really want a 76 or better with the 2F & four speed tranny:D

WHAT YEAR DO I NEED FOR 4.10'S in the chunks:question:
I want to run at least a 35" tires with a stock 2F:D

4.1 's were standard equipment until 79, then they were optional with 3.7 being standard.

76 is a good year, but, i'd hold out for 77 just for the added rear vent window in the hardtop. it really makes a difference on a hot day. but i'd take the 71 over both of those...better gauge of steel, pre-emissions...everything else can be added later, if that's within your mechanical abilities.

Do like I did. Get two. Got me a '73 FJ-55 rolling chassis that had a good body and no engine. Got me a '76 that now has excellent drive train. For smog purposes, everything but the smog equipment will move over to the '73.

Best thin is that I can go make mods to the 73 frame and body that are in pieces and still have an assembled one handy to see how things will come together.

'76 has also been an excellent practice body as well. Take it over the 'con, see where it scrapes, cut as required and try again!

The dip the gas tank sits in on mine was total rust. check there. Matt:(