It's stripped and fused on there good. I tried just about everything- pipe wrench, universal socket, applied heat....nothing worked.
My last resort is to drill and use those ez-out or thread-out's (don't know the exact name).
My Q is, Need I be carefull of anything that's right behind the plug?
Or am I going about this the wring way? Any other sugestions....Thanks

How about using some heat and parfin? wax, kroil works decent - then I guess mouse's milk ( airplane stuff )- works bad ass

How about using some heat and parfin?

I thought about that, but I never thought it would pinetrate. I did try liquid wrench and WD40, but not with heat at the same time...Mabie, i'll give it a shot.

Last time that happened to me I took it to the local muffler shop (since I have no welding skills or tools) and they welded a nut on top of it, and it cranked right off.
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This has happened a few times to me on diffrent toyotas. I just drain the sucker and fill it through the shift tower. Use the FSM to put the right number of quarts in. Easy as cake. The only reason this wouldnt work is if you have a leak and need to check the fluid level every week, but if thats the case then you need to fix the leak.

Originally posted by projectcrawler
Last time that happened to me I took it to the local muffler shop (since I have no welding skills or tools) and they welded a nut on top of it, and it cranked right off.

Never heard that before, thanks! I'll try it tonight.
It dosen't leak, but I want to fix it. I have a new bolt ready to go, for $6, i want to use it (sound my-nute, but it's a 1/2 tank of gas)

Another trick is to use parrot jaw pliers - I used them like everyday almost at the machine shop to remove pesky studs and some times bolts.

Are you using a good quality pipe wrench or a China knucklesmasher cheapo? Unless the threads are completely gone now, I doubt that my 2 or 3' Ridgid aluminum wouldn't get it off. The cheap pipe wrenches round off metal more than anything.
The welded on nut trick may work, get on the new nut while it's still warm from welding and it might pop. I doubt you'd have enough room to drill through the center of it for a big easy out, plus there's be a lot of shavings inside the case.

<FONT COLOR="Red"> Dude, you DO NOT want to drill that plug... You will wind up with metal chips in your tranny no matter how hard you try not to..

You need to mig weld an old socket or broken extension onto the plug and back it out with a fat assed breaker bar. </FONT c>

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<img src="http://www.lanset.com/ecvslick/wayslicker1.jpg" border="0" alt=""><FONT COLOR="Black">.</FONT c><FONT COLOR="Red">Slick</FONT c> - 83' bobbed & lockt posuer-mall rig & held together w/numerous <FONT COLOR="Red">Clamps...</FONT c><img src="http://www.lanset.com/ecvslick/slick.gif" border="0" alt="">

Originally posted by pmurf1
Are you using a good quality pipe wrench or a China knucklesmasher cheapo? Unless the threads are completely gone now, I doubt that my 2 or 3' Ridgid aluminum wouldn't get it off. The cheap pipe wrenches round off metal more than anything.
The welded on nut trick may work, get on the new nut while it's still warm from welding and it might pop. I doubt you'd have enough room to drill through the center of it for a big easy out, plus there's be a lot of shavings inside the case.

I totaly agree with the shaving's thing, thats why I needed other sugestions. I think the weld/nut should work. If not I'll use a different Pipe wrench.

Thanks a tone for all the info....
I-O ya a :beer: