: cut and turn


4runninghank
03-30-2004, 11:51 AM
Where going to do a SOA on a 1979scout. Is the cut and turn on a Scout going to be like a cut and turn on a FJ60? What other issues could come up?

RustoleumWhite
03-30-2004, 01:17 PM
I don't know, never done a cut-n-turn on and fj60. But I suspect the DANA products are easier than the birf'd fj's.



have you SEARCHED?? after all, its only been discused hear and in Gen. (and I'm sure 1/2 dozen other boards) one or twice.... :flipoff2:




its easy, if you have attention to detail.

4xFreak
03-30-2004, 11:46 PM
I just got through doing an SOA on my 77. Besides the cut and turn of the knuckles, the hardest part was fixing the steering. The pass. spring is in the way of the draglink, which makes it difficult to mount it so that it wont hit while turned and flexed.

I still havent fixed it right, but I do have it where I can run it for a while till I get the money to fix it right. I might be doing a chevy axle swap anyway.

I relocated the shock mounts and brake line mounts so that I can still run the stock parts without problems.

You will also need to extend the driveshafts. I dont remember how much though.

http://www.texas4x4.org/gallery/albums/album108/Zach_1.jpg

I have more pics if you want them.

4runninghank
03-31-2004, 02:56 PM
Your rig looks GOOD! What tires are you running with a SOA. did you hack the fenders?

4xFreak
03-31-2004, 07:06 PM
I'm running 31x10.50s on 15x8s right now. I havent done any cutting on the fenders yet, havent really needed to.

I plan to put longer shackles on it so it'll flex a little better. I also need to remount the rear shocks. I was in a hurry so I just mounted them back to the spring plates, they bottom out really easy.

I broke the first draglink playing around in the back yard. I built a new one out of thicker tubing and it's held up good so far.

These are from the first/last trip with the spring over:

http://www.texas4x4.org/gallery/Canadian-Mud-Bog-2-28-2004

http://www.texas4x4.org/gallery/album108

Buildup pics:

http://community.webshots.com/album/117652956wUVthy/0

james west
04-05-2004, 11:29 AM
Originally posted by 4runninghank
Your rig looks GOOD!

huh???

you obviously havent seen any well built rigs...that shit looks beat:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

james west
04-05-2004, 11:35 AM
heres a pic of my booty ass steering...dom and heims, not cutting/turning

offroader1006
04-05-2004, 03:42 PM
hey, 4runninghawk is right, it does look good,

but thats just because its a Scout wheeling:flipoff2:

kajeepxj
04-12-2004, 12:11 PM
not to hijack the thread, but james where was that pic taken at? looks like a creekbed or something thats dried up? thats my fav. kind of wheelin right there, dry creekbeds are the shiat!

james west
04-13-2004, 12:55 PM
that is a little trail just outside of a town called standardsville...near the intersection of routes 29 & 33 in western virginia...its kind of in between charlottesville and harrisonburg...

its a nice little day trip through some national forest...crosses that creek a few times and has some nasty, jagged rocks sticking out through out the trail...mountain erosion is a BLAST!!:D

Shadow man
04-13-2004, 09:33 PM
As for the rear driveline, what I did on the last S.O. I performed was get the rear driveline out of a full size Waggoneer. It will be about 1, 3/4" longer then you need. Joints are the same. I just grind the weld off on the axle end yoke, remove the yoke and shorten the tube. The trick to building your own driveline is the yoke should slip into the tube, not pounded in. I also use a $200 digital level to phase the yokes and to perfectly square the yoke end. Another advantage of the Waggy line is it has a LONGER slip yoke than a Scout. ;) Thats my one trick I will tell for now. :D
You can usally get a waggy shaft cheap at Pull n Save at 33rd and Peoria in Denver.