: ox locker?
jimmyjames 01-08-2002, 02:23 PM :mad3: I Recently broke my trash-lock in my '01 TJ. Surprise, surprise, the dealer won't warranty it. I need to replace it soon and I have been thinking about going with the ox locker. This is a daily driver so a spool is out, and i've heard bad things about detroits. Any suggestions about a smooth operating locker or feedback from anyone who has used an ox locker in a dana 44 would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
Cutter 01-08-2002, 02:31 PM Jason West over at jeepin.com has a write up about them.
Jakesteramalamajama 01-09-2002, 04:25 AM I got 'em Front and rear in Waggy 44s. They work good and nothing's broke yet. Other than the price, I'm very happy with them.
HTH,
Jake
OffroadRunner 01-09-2002, 05:28 AM Common guys this fawkin newbie ned the offical pirate solute........:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
Jakesteramalamajama 01-09-2002, 05:43 AM :flipoff2: OK!
:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
Scout Dude 01-09-2002, 07:12 AM Originally posted by jimmyjames
and i've heard bad things about detroits.
DO NOT PUT A DETROIT IN A TJ...My buddy has one and with the coil springs, it drive like crap (IMO).
Oh yeah:flipoff2: you newbie:D
XtrmTJ 01-09-2002, 08:01 AM I,ve got a 97 TJ...D35 with Warn full floater, and a Detroit, and a D30 with an Ox locker, 4.56 gears and custom axle trusses, on 35,s. I wheel the Con an Moab. I have had NO breakage and LIKE the set up alot ! :D
:jeep: __(OIIIIIO)__rOkOn:usa:
The Rockslut 01-09-2002, 01:24 PM Originally posted by Scout Dude
DO NOT PUT A DETROIT IN A TJ...My buddy has one and with the coil springs, it drive like crap (IMO).
Oh yeah:flipoff2: you newbie:D
Don't listen to Scout Dude, he doesn't even wheel. :flipoff2:
Besides he owns a Scout, those people are always questionable. :D
Detroits pop and bang like any other locker, no big deal (Yes in a TJ with 33's and a detroit it is a little squirrely but take your dress off and no problem).
I would say OX or ARB if you want seemless street driving.
Looks like I'm reviving a dead thread, but too bad :emb4: :D
I know I'm a newbie and you will all have to come to live with that for a few days...lol.
If I had a TJ with the D30 in the front, and the D44 in the rear, both stock, would the ARB in the front and a Detroit in the rear be a good option for lockers?
This is a daily driver and I don't wan't to spend a bundle. I think that ARB in the front will be fine (??) but I am really not sure about the detroit...
-Rotz
moveaside 08-02-2002, 05:02 AM Originally posted by Rotz
Looks like I'm reviving a dead thread, but too bad :emb4: :D
I know I'm a newbie and you will all have to come to live with that for a few days...lol.
If I had a TJ with the D30 in the front, and the D44 in the rear, both stock, would the ARB in the front and a Detroit in the rear be a good option for lockers?
This is a daily driver and I don't wan't to spend a bundle. I think that ARB in the front will be fine (??) but I am really not sure about the detroit...
-Rotz You didn't revive anything your the one that needs the reviving try the search button:flipoff2:
moveaside 08-02-2002, 05:06 AM Jimmyjames the newer version of the OX trax is what your looking for the pivot point is higher and its supposably self adjusting now. Try the search button on the topic I'm almost positive the newer version of it has been discussed:flipoff2:
TNTMUDMAN 08-02-2002, 07:39 AM After playing with ARB's, Detroits, and now the Ox. I wouldn't go anyother route than a Detroit in the rear and a Ox in the front. The only thing about the ox in a wrangler is that cable, once you figure out how to run it without rubbing and still enough movement for articulating, it is all good.
4Bangler 08-02-2002, 09:02 AM I love the OX in my Dana 44 front, I also love the spool in my Ford 9" rear, and I used to drive mine daily, in a light vehicle the spool is barely noticeable, but if you must have open diff for street driving, go OX.
ARB's are cool, but too many small moving parts for my taste, plus the compressor, solenoids, wiring, yada, yada, yada, and which would you rather have dictating whether you're locked or not, a flimsy little air line, some rubber seals, and a couple of solenoids? Or a big beefy cable and shift fork?
Yeah the OX may require more physical input than the ARB, but so does a t-case lever vs. push-button 4x4 and which of those would you trust more?
Green Lantern 08-02-2002, 10:01 AM Scout Dude was referring to my TJ. :flipoff2: I am siding with the Rockslut. Yah the rear detroit will pop every now and then making things somewhat squirely, but for the most part I have been real pleased. I have an ox up front. So far I am happy with it also except for the price.
Rock'em Sock'em 08-02-2002, 10:19 AM I am running the OX in my D30/44 and love 'em. My Jeep is a daily driver, so I wanted a locker that was invisible on the street. Other than the cost, you get the best of both worlds- essentially a spool when locked, and open when unlocked. I am also very pleased with the durability of the OX. Routing the cable(s) can be a bit difficult, but by no means impossible.
And yes, I am a newbie to the forum- so I'll save everyone the time. :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :D
Is it hard to find a place that can route the cable right? Or would that be impossible to find someone that really knows what there doing in San Diego?
It the OX shift lever hard to mount in the interior? I like the ARB becuase it is easy to mount that little button inside...
Rotz
Green Lantern 08-02-2002, 11:07 AM Differntial shops will do the work, but it will significantly add to the cost of you ox. If you do it yourself or have a shop do it make sure you select a long enough cable. You don't want to yank it right out of your console. Mounting the shift lever is the easy part.
You will also need to keep the cable from rubbing against your tire when you turn also. The solution was to weld one eyelit to the lower part of the frame a foot or so past the shock and to the axle housing. The cable has to be able to travel and not bind up.
Rock'em Sock'em 08-02-2002, 11:29 AM I did all the work myself. Routing the cables is not that hard, just time consuming. The rear cable is the more difficult of the two. The updated OX installation instructions show how to route the cable, but I will thow in my $.02
So you know, I have a TJ. I mounted the OX shifters side-by-side on the center console, behind the transmission shifter boot. The front locker shifter is on the passenger side, and the rear locker shifter is on the driver side of the console. A Dremel tool with a Rotozip bit is great to cut out the OX shifter holes, as well as notch some of the plastic reinforcements on the underside of the console.
For the Rear: If you unbolt the center console and look closely underneath, there is a void between the cup holders and the passenger side wall of the TJ center console. There is JUST enough room to run the rear locker cable through this void to the OX shifter. You can drill a 7/8" hole in the tub, just in front of where the parking brake assembly passes into the body. This allows you to keep the OX cable hidden, and you do not have to drill any holes in the console. Use a grommet to protect the cable where it passes into the body through the hole you just drilled. Use silicon sealant on the undercarriage where the cable passes through the tub for a weather tight seal. Make sure the cable is routed over the exhaust, control arms, etc, and has slack to accommodate rear axle articulation.
For the Front: Route the cable towards into the engine bay, towards the center/Driver side of the firewall. There is an existing grommet that you can use to pass the cable through the firewall. Route the cable towards the passenger side of the center console. The cable has to be on the passenger side of the transmission shifter in order to be in alignment with the OX shifter. NOTE: the front locker cable will slightly interfere with shifting the tranny into reverse. Not a big deal, you just have to make sure the shifter properly goes into the gate.
That's essentially it. Ramp your Jeep, check for cable binding issues, and make any adjustments/tweaks necessary. I have been running this setup for some time now with no issues. My OX shifters engage with little effort, and the cables are nicely concealed in the interior. :D
Jakesteramalamajama 08-02-2002, 11:29 AM Originally posted by Green Lantern
You will also need to keep the cable from rubbing against your tire when you turn also.
I just ran the front cable pretty much parallel with the leaf spring about 6-inches above the top leaf and back to the firewall on my YJ. It's tied to the shock with a few zip ties and a piece of heavy hose around it to prevent it from rubbing on the shock canister. (This method won't work if your shocks are mounted with the canister at the top) Not sure how this would work in a TJ either, (following the arm) because the coil springs are probably in the way.
Mounting the shifters was pretty easy. I made a beefy steel bracket for mine and mounted it to the floor behind the tranny/t-case shifters. I'm glad I didn't mount them on the plastic console. You gotta put pretty good pressure on those shifters to get them to shift and I'd be worried abouot the plastic cracking.
Jake
moveaside 08-02-2002, 05:30 PM What about using a throttle cable spring to take up the slack of the cable and allow it to flex when the axle moves seems easier just a thought. You can do the same thing with brake lines.
Jakesteramalamajama 08-05-2002, 07:40 AM [QUOTE]Originally posted by MOVEASIDE
What about using a throttle cable spring to take up the slack of the cable and allow it to flex when the axle moves seems easier just a thought. You can do the same thing with brake lines. [/QUOTE
You ever seen one of those cables, close up? With the sheath, they're about half an inch thick! You're gonna need something a dam sight heavier than a throttle cable spring to keep it from doing anything. ...Might work with something thicker though--one of those rubber bungee cords maybe... The problem I had with mine was that the cables weren't quite long enough. routing was easy because I had no choice--it was the only way they'd fit. :D
Jake
Routing the OX cable(s) is really not that big of a deal. The only real problem I had was that my front cable is run near the exhaust header. It started to melt a little so I covered it with that header wrap stuff. Also you should cover the whole cable with some fuel hose and after you run it cover it with thicker hose at the places that it rubs a lot.
IMO the OX is the best locker for a D30 application because of the cover acting as a truss. I've had to tighten the passenger side cover bolts a couple times after trips because of(I'm assuming) axle housing flex.
Here's where I mounted my shifters.
http://home.earthlink.net/~jdrios/shifters
Jes
moveaside 08-05-2002, 08:16 PM Looks pretty clean Jes I really want to try the ox locker.
Jason R 08-05-2002, 11:30 PM Hey Jes...are you teh guy from the NAXJA board? Who went to Swamp Lake running MT/Rs and soon getting an Atlas?
Originally posted by Wish4YJ
Hey Jes...are you teh guy from the NAXJA board? Who went to Swamp Lake running MT/Rs and soon getting an Atlas?
That would be me. Atlas is installed but I still need a front shaft.
Jes
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