My 83 CJ5 came with manual brakes and I'm swapping axles, brakes and want to upgrade the brake supply.
I have a mid 80s S10 dd booster and 68 Vette power m/c. I also have a factory CJ booster with the ratio lever bracket.
I was planning on using the booster bracket, then someone told me to ditch it, that the pedal will feel better without the ratio lever.
It looks like if I try to ditch the bracket the booster will need some trimming at the plastic tube and new holes drilled into the firewall.

Is it really worth it? Is the bracket pedal feel a PITA?
Is there a different bracket with a better mount possition?
The Navajo bracket set-up is straight without the lever.
One write-up I have uses the CJ bracket.
Decisions......decisions

Pics of set-up now for ref----
http://www.crawltech.com/albums/album114/Booster_side.jpg
http://www.crawltech.com/albums/album114/Booster_bottom.jpg

It's not so much the pedal feel as the poor positioning of the lever arms. Actuate the assembly by hand and you'll feel the resistance...it also doesn't fully actuate the rod on the booster. The Tri-County mod that I mentioned fixes this if you want to use the CJ bracket.

That setup on your workbench is what I'm running, and I am using the TriCounty adjustable brake rod. I'm finally happy with my brakes. I'd use the bracket. Are you sure they weren't talking about mounting the 29969 manual MC straight to the firewall?

Skate's right, the main advantage of the TCG adj. rod is that it increases pedal ratio by allowing you to redrill the bracket, and then adjust the rod length afterwards. With that big dual diaphragm booster, you might be ok w/o the extra leverage it gives, but how will you adjust the rod if the throw is too short? B/T/W- I had to cut about 3" of the dd booster rod out when I installed mine so you may be able to adjust it that way. It would have to be spot on though, since you woouldn't have a way to fine tune it. BRB w/pics.;)

You can see how long the rod was here:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4da20b3127ccebb9252bfed490000001610
Here is a shot with it ready to be welded. I used the vice grips as a heatsink, used the wet rag to help keep it cool also, gotta protect all the rubber in there:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4da20b3127ccebb9252a3ed550000001610
Here is how short it ended up, I had to adjust the TCG rod all the way in to make it work:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4da20b3127ccebb9252a06c660000001610
Final pic, look at how close the MC sits to the 7" K&N filter on my MC2100. I'd been told that you couldn't run a K&N with that combo due to the size, but this one will fit:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4da20b3127ccebb9252b86c7e0000001610

Thanks Shell, I should have explained in more detail but the assembly in the pic WAS finished, meaning the booster rod and m/c rod were both already proper lengths.
When I pulled the stock man m/c and measured the rod, comparing to the booster assembly the booster bracket rod needed to be lengthened another 5/16" to match what was in the jeep. I chopped them up and whittled the rods until it fit perfect. Welded it up, assembled it and now the pedal is right at the hanger stop.
Looks great and feels great as for no binding issues, I won't be possitive until it gets juiced up but that'll be a while.