I know the pic is bad, but from what you can see, what is up with my welds? Too hot, fast, etc? I'm just starting to weld, and just trying to get it down, any advice would be appreciated. It looked to me like I had the heat too high (according to the book), so I turned it down, maybe this is the problem? I wacked at it a few times with a BFH, and it didn't budge, just isnt the prettiest. TIA:)

Doesn't look hot enough

I agree, more heat, and a steady hand......work the puddle in a horse shoe pattern. The end result should look like a roll of quarters. practice practice practice

You're right. Those do look bad!

I take it that is MIG (GMAW) welding. So as far as I can see, you need to change the distance you're holding the torch from the metal, and maybe play around with different speeds of motion. Wire speed might also be too fast.

The best advice I can give is spend a lot of time welding scrap metal for practice. Make different kinds of joints & use different guage metals.

HTH,
Brandon:usa:

I agree the welds stand up too much. If it was too hot you'd see undercutting (youd see the bead start under the surface a bit) rather than sitting on top. Also find a more comfortable position and use both hands, your welds are uneven because your hand was moving around too much. You're also standing off the metal too much, bring it in closer. and as Brandon said, maybe up the wire feed a bit and practice lots :D It should sound like an even cackle, without sporatic bursts.

Originally posted by mike
like an even cackle, without sporatic bursts. [/B]

A cackle, now that's the word I have been searching for to describe welding. Like a witch.

Thanks

Sean"

yeah the other one is like bacon frying.

bacon frying is what ive heard, what about like a fuse burnng

looks like bird dodo...keep practicing.

i went back out and turned the heat up and welded some scrap metal, looks a little better in these pictures:

:skull:

looks like a weld pak 100 from home depot (no gas) on level D at 40% wire speed. (give or take)

if that's the case or at least sort of the case...just start crying cause a 100 w/ no gas can't penetrate too well unless your are big pimpin' w/ the welder. Drop the wire speed to almost nothing make sure you're at full power...preheat w/ a torch to red hot...then move as slow as possibe in an offset overlapping circular (or oval) motion to in theory double the pass and double the penetraion. Use wide passes and face the metal so that you are welding from bottom to top of the seam.

<FONT COLOR="Red"> Looks like not enough heat and too fast of wire speed. That weld (from the pic) looks like it had a grinder taken to it to knock off the high spots. If so, try more heat. If it still "piles up" move faster or slow down the wire speed.

And try to avoid welding with a HANGOVER.. </FONT c>

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<FONT COLOR="White">__________________</FONT c>
<img src="http://www.lanset.com/ecvslick/wayslicker1.jpg" border="0" alt=""><FONT COLOR="Black">.</FONT c><FONT COLOR="Red">Slick</FONT c> - 83' bobbed & lockt posuer-mall rig & held together w/numerous <FONT COLOR="Red">Clamps...</FONT c><img src="http://www.lanset.com/ecvslick/slick.gif" border="0" alt="">

Keep crankin that amperage. You're almost there. If yer topped out, I'd say it's not safe to use that welder on integral parts of you truck. Get something that can pull 150 amps

Originally posted by Sillyneck
looks like a weld pak 100 from home depot (no gas) on level D at 40% wire speed. (give or take)

if that's the case or at least sort of the case...just start crying cause a 100 w/ no gas can't penetrate too well unless your are big pimpin' w/ the welder. Drop the wire speed to almost nothing make sure you're at full power...preheat w/ a torch to red hot...then move as slow as possibe in an offset overlapping circular (or oval) motion to in theory double the pass and double the penetraion. Use wide passes and face the metal so that you are welding from bottom to top of the seam.


with gas will actually penetrate less.... flux wire although not as pretty will penetrate deeper....

dont cry for too long, slow down the line, kick the heat up and keep trying.... on the tuffer (thicker) welds preheat with a torch, this helps alot with these little welders

There is some pretty good tips on the Miller (http://www.millerwelds.com/main/education/technical_articles/) site. I came across these when checkin out a bobcat.

Originally posted by Sillyneck
looks like a weld pak 100 from home depot (no gas) on level D at 40% wire speed. (give or take)

if that's the case or at least sort of the case...just start crying cause a 100 w/ no gas can't penetrate too well unless your are big pimpin' w/ the welder. Drop the wire speed to almost nothing make sure you're at full power...preheat w/ a torch to red hot...then move as slow as possibe in an offset overlapping circular (or oval) motion to in theory double the pass and double the penetraion. Use wide passes and face the metal so that you are welding from bottom to top of the seam.

it is a 115v wire feed I believe, supposedly can weld up to 3/16", and yes it is from Home Depot. For about $40 more, I could have gotten a Lincoln Electric arc welder good for 1/4", but I don't have 22v service:( so I had to settle for this mofo:D

Originally posted by Slick
That weld (from the pic) looks like it had a grinder taken to it to knock off the high spots. If so, try more heat.

in the second two pics, no grinder was used, just brushed it by hand to clean it up a little. That weld came out rather nice as far as I can tell.

BTW, the mounts I was welding tonight were for a hilift mount, nothing integral. I don't think I'll be welding shock mounts or spring perches anytime soon:D

What machine EXACTLY are you using?
Are you using a gas sheild? if yes is it C25 or CO2? Also what size wire are you running?
If you are using Flux core wire- what type, and size?
Are you beveling the joint? Because It doesn't look like it!
Also what is the thickness of that peice your welding , and whats it for?

It is usally very easy to tell a cored wire weld from a hard wire weld but the pictures are not very clear.

It looks like what most everybody else says too low amperage , and also to slow of travel speed, and probably to long of an electrode stickout.

If you are running your machine as hot as you can I would suggest boxing that machine up , and returning it to HD for a FULL REFUND! If you dont your going to end up with a worthless POS. That thing just isn't putting out from what I'm seeing.
weldpro

You would be MUCH better off buying say (since you have only access to 120V) a hobart handler 135 or Millermatic 135 or for a bargan a Lincoln sp135 Tapped voltage($419)model since its cheaper than the variable model.
Try www.welders-direct.com

The best advice i can give is less wire speed and slow down your hand speed. Wear some THICK good quality welding gloves get close to job and steady your hand against the job. With the good lined gloves you will have a hand as steady as a rock without getting burnt too badly!

I think Sillyneck hit it on the head. 110V Mig welder. The 2nd weld looks decent, but lacks penetration. The first looks like a constipated pigeon finally exploded. Lot of good advice is being given so take it and practice before you get to your project. It would really suck to have a weld give while your on the trail.:flipoff2:

I think Sillyneck nailed it pretty good.
A couple of other things to think about.
A mig welder can lay down a real pretty bead with little or no penetration, an ugly weld with good penetration beats a pretty one any day.
Mig and stick welders work best with clean material, so clean any rust, paint, or other crap off first.
Practice a lot. A highlift falling off at hiway speed could ruin someone's day.

Just remember, for best penetration your joint should be fully prepared.

K.
:usa:

Originally posted by Insayn
constipated pigeon finally exploded

That's about the funniest damn thing I have ever heard a weld called!!!

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

drink more :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: you will relax and weld 200% better :D

this might sound like a stupid question but how can you tell if your weld has actually penetrated well enough. i have a 130 amp lincoln with a 25/75 gas mixture and can get pretty nice looking welds but how do i know for sure they are penetrating. should i just weld some flat stock and cut throught he weld with a cut off wheel and see how far down the penetration has gone????

Originally posted by crawlintoy
I know the pic is bad, but from what you can see, what is up with my welds? Too hot, fast, etc? I'm just starting to weld, and just trying to get it down, any advice would be appreciated. It looked to me like I had the heat too high (according to the book), so I turned it down, maybe this is the problem? I wacked at it a few times with a BFH, and it didn't budge, just isnt the prettiest. TIA:)

To cold....burn that fawker in :flipoff2:

DR.....

Thats the technique I use.

Yeah, you can simply cut it and see the penetration you got. I just purchased the Lincoln 135 at Lowe's. Been practicing on square tubing building axle stands, carts, ice chest racks, etc. Right after I finish the weld I can look down the inside of the tube and see if the heat has penetrated through by the red glow. After the welds have cooled off, I can look down the inside of the tube I welded on and see which welds penetrated better than others by the lines formed from the heat. Not to much of a bulletproof test, but right now it is only for stands, racks, etc. And they hold up very well.:flipoff2:

Are you watching the little pool of molten metal? My welds sucked until I learned to watch for that, then I started controlling it's size and shape to make better welds.

to me there's no doubt, i'd box that little unit up and take it back.
if you've got an electric dryer then there's your 220V outlet. otherwise you'll always be wishing you'd have spent a few more $'s and gotten a more capable machine if you ever plan on really fabing parts for your rig. i was gonna get a miller 130 but saved up a few more coins and got a hobart 175 for $550 delivered ... night and day difference between a 110V and 220V unit, my welds might still not be world class to look at but i'm getting plenty of penetration ... good luck with it.

- jack

Originally posted by Keyster
A highlift falling off at hiway speed could ruin someone's day.

only if they're sitting directly beneath it while I'm driving since it's mounted inside my 4runner:D Seriously, I was wacking at it with a 6 lb. sledge and they weren't budging, so it should be fine. Thanks for the advice btw.:cool:

Not hot enough!!!! Get yourself a peice of flat plate and pratic flat welding first to get your wire speed and amp settings.. Go to your local Jr. College and take a welding class. Burn up the wire and metal for the cost of the class!!!!:cool: :usa: :cool:

get a test peice and turn it all the way up until you melt through.

turn it down from there until it just glows orange. then you will get a really pretty weld and awesome pentration!:smokin:

Listen to the advice of Weldpro...

He is right on :D

I am a Tech. Ed teacher, so, I am supposed to know what I am talking about:rolleyes:

Migs are kinda dangerous in that you can make a beutiful LOOKIG weld that isn't worth shit.

If you are under powered, you must chamfer the edges of the weld before welding. You may need mult. passes.

Practice ALOT.

Take a welding course at the local tech school is you can.


Cory

you ever seen a feather fall? it kinda like a back and forth in a cirved fashion well in a simeler motion your weld should look like (((((((((((((( and it looks a little to coled or you ran out of gass (gas shield)

Originally posted by crawlintoy
I know the pic is bad, but from what you can see, what is up with my welds? Too hot, fast, etc? I'm just starting to weld, and just trying to get it down, any advice would be appreciated. It looked to me like I had the heat too high (according to the book), so I turned it down, maybe this is the problem? I wacked at it a few times with a BFH, and it didn't budge, just isnt the prettiest. TIA:)

U should practice and get good enough at welding before you do a project, at least they look better then skytones welds:D practice ,practice ,practice ,;) ;) ;)

I was right enough....the penetration was not the argument for gas vs. flux just the ease of learning how to work it the right way. Gas is easier and if the metal is clean you can see what your weld looks like while you are welding and compensate for imperfections as you go rather than stopping cleaning the area then starting again in a different fashion.

The equivalent to the home depot 155 is a decent machine from a welding shop. There are about ten million differences between the machines at the welding shops vs. the home depot units. Not just in the form of gas but they lack alot of the adjustments and tend to have far cheezier components such as internal dial strength and solenoid toughness. They break down alot easier then the welding shops charge a grip to fix them because they hate home depot or any other non-in town specific welder supplier.

Go to the welding shop and get the gas conversion before you learn how to flux weld well. should be about 150 + tank....and worth every penny. Deal with the sh!t they give you but pretend like you know what you are doing. Or go with someone who knows. Cause a lot of welding suppliers can be dickheads if you aren't the #1 stunna of the welding world :D Just how it goes...I still get shit @ some places until I tell them my background and where I am taking my business from now on :D

good luck! any more ?? feel free to ask.

Originally posted by Sillyneck
any more ?? feel free to ask.

k, what 'chamfer the edges of the weld' mean for if I'm underpowered. I think it means grind like a groove to weld in? Not sure......

Grind it so the two side meet in a \ / of arraingement. then do multiple passes if needed. You'll get better penetration this way because you're effectively welding thinner metal

Originally posted by Sillyneck
I was right enough....the penetration was not the argument for gas vs. flux just the ease of learning how to work it the right way. Gas is easier and if the metal is clean you can see what your weld looks like while you are welding and compensate for imperfections as you go rather than stopping cleaning the area then starting again in a different fashion.

The equivalent to the home depot 155 is a decent machine from a welding shop. There are about ten million differences between the machines at the welding shops vs. the home depot units. Not just in the form of gas but they lack alot of the adjustments and tend to have far cheezier components such as internal dial strength and solenoid toughness. They break down alot easier then the welding shops charge a grip to fix them because they hate home depot or any other non-in town specific welder supplier.

Go to the welding shop and get the gas conversion before you learn how to flux weld well. should be about 150 + tank....and worth every penny. Deal with the sh!t they give you but pretend like you know what you are doing. Or go with someone who knows. Cause a lot of welding suppliers can be dickheads if you aren't the #1 stunna of the welding world :D Just how it goes...I still get shit @ some places until I tell them my background and where I am taking my business from now on :D

good luck! any more ?? feel free to ask.


ok ill give you the fact that with gas its cleaner....... maybe easier for learning too.... i just know from trying both flux gets ya deeper into the metal :D ohh and the preheat trick aint a bad deal in a pinch