I just got my spool in, and I drive my 4runner from school home and work, probably 5 miles a day, Are there any driving tips you guys can give me to keep things safe and not hurt things (as much)
Thanks

If you drive fast around turns you dont notice it as much.:flipoff2:

All terrains make it squeel more than swampers.
Street tires also make it buck more and all that good stuff.

But 5 miles is nothing.

I'm running a welded rear in w/ 4.88's on 31 AT's(for now). I'm getting a little driveline bind when in first and letting out the clutch at a turn. Other than that, its been cool. Any smooth concrete surface will make it squeal like a pig. Asphalt will scuff or pogo the inside tire. Never dump the clutch in a turn and dont hot-rod around curves to much and you should be fine.

after 32,000 miles of driving over 3 years, I found out that:

Turning into parking spaces is easier with the clutch in- less load on the axles. I made sure I had enough momentum to carry me thru.

Higher air pressure = easier turning, less chirping, etc. Higher air pressure = faster wear on the center of the tire. So, I settled on about 25 PSI.

Spool = faster tire wear, period. I got 14,000 miles out of a set of BFG's, and am ready to replace the MT/R's at 18,000.

Rain, no big deal.

Snow/ice on highways, can be interesting. You know the backend is going to slide down the road crown, so use it to your advantage. When turning a left corner after stopping, I blipped the throttle just a little to get the rear end going the direction I wanted it to. Since the spool wants to go straight, turning can be kinda fun, but you'll get used to it quickly. I much prefer the spool over the Detroit I had.

later

Spools are no big deal to drive with. I have a spool in my truck front and rear and have ran them in my street car for YEARS.. its no big deal, your tires will drag around corners.. All i can say if you want to be easy on the axles and the 3rd then take corners as wide as you can.. the tighter you turn the more stress on the axles and carrier..

The longer WB of a yota will make it much more bearable. I have one in the EB and its only noticible when going around tight corners, but the rig still only turns as sharp as the fronts will steer before hitting the radius arm, so I can't tell any diff in turning radius. I've read a lot about it being crazy on ice...but this winter it iced here A LOT and the only time the rear got loose was when I wanted it to, and even then it sometimes didn't. Don't worry about it. Also, my tires don't squeal like some have said...they make more of a scuffing sound...unnoticable really.

18 on the mtr's ugh, how much do you drive it though? I have heard better mileage than that!!! I have the tires at 32 ish right now cause they were already a little balder in the center, what do you think is best for me (4runner with only a tool box and 12" sub in the back for street driving.

It was a daily driver for 2-1/2 years. I average 50 miles a day round trip. We either were fire roading or rock crawling almost every weekend. The MT/R's have about 1/4 to 3/16 tread remaining, and are so chewed up, out of round and unbalanced that I hate to drive it. No flats or cuts tho- much better than the BFG's in that respect.

your right rear tire will wear much faster then anyother. because turning right is usually tighter then left and causes wheel spin

Ok thanks guys, I plan on keeping this through the summer then changing over to a selectable locker once fall rolls around.