For background, do a quick check here, then come back and VOTE:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=230436#post230436

In short, the military Chevy already has 60/14 bolt, locked rear, 4.56's, 6.2L diesel, TH400, 208 case.


Basically, here are the two options:

1. Buy it, use it as a low cost and possibly temporary tow rig, wife sells the 99 V10 F250 and gets a cheaper vehicle (probably a Tahoe or Suburban w/ 350 - room for family) and I can use either as a tow rig. That means I keep on with my plans for buggify-ing my Toyota (tube body, 4.3L, TH350, dual Toy cases, 60's, 42's).

or...

2. Buy it, and turn it into a trail rig. Basically the same thing I would do to my Toy - chop the rear frame, 4 link rear w/ 1/4 eliptical, maybe a double case setup later, install the Dana 60 ARB I already have, crossover steering, and leave the front suspension alone, yank the body and build all tube body to seat 4, little or no lift - just enough to clear the 42's. Toy would be rebuild back to stock and sold for $$$ later.


I would basically be doing the same thing to either trail rig, but if I use the Chevy I save myself the time/money/effort of the engine, tranny, front Dana 60 swap.

As a side note, I already have most of the stuff to do this to my Toy - front 60, 4.3L, adapter, etc - but I could easily sell all of it to recoup my money pretty fast.

This also puts me at odds with my original plan - a lightweight Toy buggy with a stout drivetrain would be long gone... Sure I could keep the Chevy creation lighter than normal, but nowherre near as light as the Toy buggy would have been...

If you need more clarification before you vote, by all means ASK :)

i say make it a tow rig and make the toy a lightweight buggyish thing. it seems like what you want to do more . plus itd be cooler oh and it seems like it would be less work overall

I see votes, now share WHY :)

Originally posted by mighty duck
i say make it a tow rig and make the toy a lightweight buggyish thing. it seems like what you want to do more . plus itd be cooler oh and it seems like it would be less work overall

Less work? Really? :confused:

With the Chevy, I am basically taking a running vehicle and just creating a new body and a custom rear suspension -that's it.

With my Toy I am taking a frame and creating a new body, engine & tranny swap, and new front and rear suspensions.... Basically starting from a frame and Tcase and building everything else...

So you think the Toy would be easier?

tow rig ... too much weight

Originally posted by morpheus
tow rig ... too much weight


lol - we have talking VOLUMES on this all morning through IM and this is all you say here :p

i build what shows up cheap. if you can do it cheap go for it. i like the idea of a full tube rig with the cucvee running gear. but i would go with the 4.3 you have now. you could built it cheap no need for adapters. i have also found that i would rather build a frame from scratch for a tube rig than redo a factory frame to fit my needs. i just got done mounting a 12a rotary/5 speed and relocated the t case on a samuria. what a pain in the ass. would have been easy to make a new frame out of 2x4 tube and not have to cut and grind off all the old mounts. the bigggest bitch is the undercoating just my 2 cents mike

Originally posted by DRM



lol - we have talking VOLUMES on this all morning through IM and this is all you say here :p

short and to the point :D

- jack

Trail rig, or buy to sell. I have always owned diesels, 2 of which were chevy's. I don't know the topography of Tenn., but I live in the mountains and the two chevy diesels I literally floored it on the outskirts of town and never let off the throttle until I got to my offramp. (read: any grades=always floored, but they both got 20mpg empty or towing.) While towing, on the steeper grades it would pull some (grapevine) at 25mph!! You have already tasted the flavor of v10 power. You won't like 6.5L diesel. Mine were both suburbans though, so they were heavier by a bit. I'd say trail rig with no hesitation but there IS the weight factor. Again, I don't know the topography of Tenn. but if you have mud or dunes, the 6.5 might not leave you satisfied.:rolleyes: So pretty much, I don't know what you should do with it. Personally, I'd pass as the only good stuff is the 60 front. The rest is dime a dozen.:eek:

I will vote for which ever one you promise to work on and quit talking about. :D :evil:

Originally posted by MattS
I will vote for which ever one you promise to work on and quit talking about. :D :evil:

HAHAHA - get him :flipoff2:

Oh yeah - make it a trail rig. Keep the wifey's truck for towing and build the beast. I'd hate to see the toyota go though.

Originally posted by MattS
I will vote for which ever one you promise to work on and quit talking about. :D :evil:

not gonna happen either way :p

why not build them both? build the 1.25 ton chevy for the wifey cause it has a automatic and then build the toyota for yourself??

Originally posted by TrailRunner
why not build them both? build the 1.25 ton chevy for the wifey cause it has a automatic and then build the toyota for yourself??


That was gonna be my suggestion. Depending on the terrain, you would have a choice of which rig to take. On a side note, if one breaks and it looks like it would take awhile to put back together, you still have one rig to wheel/ rob parts off of.

I'm only giving you 1 cent. Unemployment check still hasn't come to the house.:flipoff2: :D

:usa: This sounds too complicated

Build this rig, sell this one, convert this to a buggy, rebuild to stock and sell, blah, blah, blah....


I think you have enough expierence DRM that you can make up your mind on this.

If you can't make up your mind then go ride one of your tractors and think about what you
are facing rather than sitting here on the computer looking for the answer to come from others.

You know best when it comes to your needs.

:usa:

Originally posted by DRM


Basically starting from a frame and Tcase and building everything else...

So you think the Toy would be easier?

not easier, but it would be fun to build. Isn't that half the reason we're into this because we enjoy working on the rigs just as much as wheeling them.

I say tow rig and build the buggy.

Originally posted by Greg W


not easier, but it would be fun to build. Isn't that half the reason we're into this because we enjoy working on the rigs just as much as wheeling them.

I say tow rig and build the buggy.

But I haven't wheeled in over a year, and I wanna wheel SOONER than LATER :(

i just think there will be very little weight differance between the two. i mean if they both use dana 60/14 bolt axles, 4.3, auto tranny and a tube chassies. hell its just a couple of different parts, pretty much the same rig. i would ditch the 6.2 they pull 600 to 900 if in good running shape. you have the 4.3 so i really don't think it matters what way you go. mike

Buy the truck.

For now, throw some 33s/35s on it and wheel it while you finish the Toy.

You won't need a tow-rig with the CUCV, so sell the V10 and get a cheaper rig for your wife to run around town in.

When the toy is ready, use the buck-n-a-quarter as a tow-rig. Either with 33s/35s, or back down on stock rubber (or nearly stock.. I know, 4.56.. my crewcab has 235/85-16s and 4.30 gears..but 65mph isn't too bad and it's stable)

Maybe you'll happen upon a 3+3 cab down the road. Yank the bed and cab, throw on the 4-door, and shorten up the bed.

There ya go. Heavy duty 4x4 tow-rig that can seat 5/6 in comfort with a bed for extra gear or even a shorty camper or a gooseneck.

Still be a capable 4x4 at times, too (will the Toyota be equipped for winter wheelin'?)

Or do like me.. buy 'em all, keep 'em all, and figure it out later.

'72 IH 1110 Travelall - 1/2T 4x4. Winter driver, winter trail rig, occasionally winter tow-rig
'74 IH 200 4dr longbed - 1Ton, 2wd, seats 5 in comfort. Stable. Needs 40acres to turn around.. parallel parking is a fairytale

'77 SII - trail rig, body is bashed up so bad it's a cold SOB in the winter
'77 SII - race rig, just a body tub, running gear, and a cage.. only "heater" is the heat coming from the radiator out through the hood scoop and over the cowl where there USED to be a windshield

And I still want a 3/4T Travelall or shortbox 4dr that's 4x4 for winter driver/tow-rig so I can take the 1/2T Travelall and hog out the fenders and make a winter 4x4 playtoy out of it..

Originally posted by gunracer1
i just think there will be very little weight differance between the two. i mean if they both use dana 60/14 bolt axles, 4.3, auto tranny and a tube chassies. hell its just a couple of different parts, pretty much the same rig. i would ditch the 6.2 they pull 600 to 900 if in good running shape. you have the 4.3 so i really don't think it matters what way you go. mike

This is an interesting thought here. The only thing that's really heavier on the 6.2 truck is the engine (which you can swap out - 4.3 is direct bolt in), and the frame. And now you're talking about a much less complicated vehicle with loads of cheap, easily obtainable, spare parts. I was gonna suggest the Toy, but maybe not. But, looks like I'm gonna vote for #2 for one simple reason - it's the only option that has you keeping your late-model, reliable, appropriate for the job, hard to sell now due to a glut of trade-ins on 0% new trucks, tow vehicle :flipoff2:

TEX

Originally posted by DRM


But I haven't wheeled in over a year, and I wanna wheel SOONER than LATER :(

Patience DRM-san. Young grashopper wants immediate satisfaction. Good things take time. Keep going with the rock buggy plan for the Toy. It might make more financial sense to sell the f-250 and buy this chevy to use as a tow rig because then you could still afford something nice for the wife to drive instead of the f-250.

Just get the Chevy, remove the bed, chop up the front fenders, throw on some 38's maybe a little lift and go GET IT. And when you need to tow something just put the stock wheels back on.

I voted for making it a tow rig.

The first reason is because diesel's do not do well in the mud from my experience. Especially the 6.2's. They do not like to rev very fast.

I think the 6.2's do well towing, especially with a banks turbo.

Plus I don't like 14 bolts on the trail. Even a dana 70 has more clearence. They just hang down way to far for me. But then I love toy axles so even 60's are huge to me.

I would keep the chevy for towing and sell the ford. Hey maby latter when the 6.2 finally dies you can use the saved up money to drop a 5.9 cummins in there.

Hey Dave, keep the Toy.. There needs to be someone else in the club to catch hell all the time for driving one besides me;) :D

Originally posted by little blue yota
Hey Dave, keep the Toy.. There needs to be someone else in the club to catch hell all the time for driving one besides me;) :D

lol -even if I keep the Toy, all that will be "Toy" will be Tcase, part of the frame, and part of the cab :p:p:p

Light weight is a good thing

if you can get it cheap, just fawkin buy it then decide later

I'm going to say build the Chevy, it will take less time and get you on the trail quicker. Then, you can sell the Toy and parts, but the money towards paying off the Ford and in the end, you money ahead. I also like the build em both option, can't have too many rigs and you won't mind one breaking down because you'll have a back up.

Don't worry about wheeling the 6.2L, I'm sure drivers skill will make up any differences :p and you can always swap in the other engine in the future.

Some of us would rather be wheeling than building, thats me any day!

Ok, went by and looked the truck over after work.

As was said - batteries were dead, so no start, but I did get it to turn over about one revolution :p

Body is not bad - but some of that military green "coating" is coming off in a few places. Cab and front clip look straight, bed is a little beat up from use on the interior, and tailgate. It is a long bed. Doors are a little loose, hard to close.

Interior is sparse as to be expected - so it looks pretty bad with bare metal everwhere, and a rough seat cover. no radio either. spider web cracked windshield.

Under the hood looks clean, a P/S leak looks to be the only leak I could see form up top. My buddy said the truck was maintained well, I would tend to believe him and a quick look at it would make me agree more.

But just with what I saw, relying it on it as a tow rig would have me spending quite a bit of time to get it up to par for comfortable daily driver use.

It still seems more like a good candidate for a diesel trail rig - just to be different :p

As for price - I would probably not give over $2k tops, more likely $1500.

TEX - Either way we are downsizing the F250 to get a cheaper rig with more room (may be adding a second kiddie soon ;) )

Get the CUCV
you already have the 42's
the ARB
the truck comes with the Detroit
4.56's and an auto should turn the 42's
Gut the front clip (inner fenders) to lighten it up
yank the sidesaddle gas tank and get a Blazer tank
Keep the cab but hack out the rockers and run a beefy rocksliders/exocage setup
keep the box floor bolted down and trim off the sides to frame rail width
hack the rear off just long enough

yer done
:D

CRO - why evcen keep the cab? I know it is big, but the windshield would need to be replaced and I can't see spending $100 on that when I am still running limitd can space for 3 people, and definataly could not fit 4.

But it is something to think about...


Hmmmm.....

I oculd always re-do the cab later though.... this would get me on the trail ASAP.... hmmm.....

I just can't see the CUCV being a good wheeler where you are. One thing to remember if you are going to be driving up any steep inclines is that you will need to keep the fuel level fairly high al the time. I remember, more than a few times when driving CUCV's around here, having the fuel go to the back of the tank away from the pick up and getting air in the lines. That pretty much stops you until you can get back onto level ground or add more fuel so you can bleed the system.

Originally posted by Paul Gagnon
I just can't see the CUCV being a good wheeler where you are. One thing to remember if you are going to be driving up any steep inclines is that you will need to keep the fuel level fairly high al the time. I remember, more than a few times when driving CUCV's around here, having the fuel go to the back of the tank away from the pick up and getting air in the lines. That pretty much stops you until you can get back onto level ground or add more fuel so you can bleed the system.

Good point... and I can see with the saddle tanks this being a real issue, but with a tank like a blazer tank, or some other rectangular tank with a more centrally located pickup I would htink this would be no more of a problem for a diesel as any other vehicle?

BTW, my other buddy wheeled his cucv for a few years - added a 6" lift, 42's, cotout flares, and a Banks Turbo... Went to Tellico, Beasley Knob (nothing but up and down), plenty of other trails and never ran into a problem with fuel delivery I can recall... and that is with the stock saddle tank to...

http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/images/Rosser97_14.jpg

just had the opprtunity to buy the same truck as far as condition with a bad transmission for a grand guess i fawked up:(

Originally posted by DRM
BTW, my other buddy wheeled his cucv for a few years - added a 6" lift, 42's, cotout flares, and a Banks Turbo... Went to Tellico, Beasley Knob (nothing but up and down), plenty of other trails and never ran into a problem with fuel delivery I can recall... and that is with the stock saddle tank to...

It shouldn't be a problem if the tank is over 1/4 full. 1/4 tank and below it was pretty much hit and miss.

Originally posted by DRM
may be adding a second kiddie soon

Dude, they know what causes that now ;) :p

TEX

Originally posted by TEX


Dude, they know what causes that now ;) :p

TEX

Really? :p

Originally posted by DRM


But I haven't wheeled in over a year, ...:(

What the !@#*&^(*&@!#$ !!!!! You need to get off the computer and take the f250 out or something! Has the rig been down for that long?