Want to replace rear axel bearings/seals, read some axels have
removable race on axel shaft while others the race is part of the axel shaft... is this correct? I am looking at '76 shafts and the race is definately part of the shaft!

The chassis and body manual I have(year unknown)talks about
removing a race by cutting and cold chiseling, but the description
sounds like it is pressed in the axel tube while the picture looks
like it is on the shaft:confused:

If I am careful can I press new bearings back in w/appropriate piece of pipe and/or old bearing instead of having to use the tools
listed in chassis manual or their equivalent?

Now for outter pinion bearing and seal, can they be removed
w/out "F"ing up the the pinion/ring gear contact pattern if the pinion stays in the housing, or does it have to come out to
get to the bearing. Thanks! Sorry for the length

Originally posted by '62FJ40
Want to replace rear axel bearings/seals, read some axels have removable race on axel shaft while others the race is part of the axel shaft... is this correct?

If I am careful can I press new bearings back in w/appropriate piece of pipe and/or old bearing instead of having to use the tools
listed in chassis manual or their equivalent?

Now for outter pinion bearing and seal, can they be removed
w/out "F"ing up the the pinion/ring gear contact pattern if the pinion stays in the housing, or does it have to come out to
get to the bearing. Thanks! Sorry for the length

On a '76, the inner race is part of the axle shaft.

Go ahead and "walk" the new outer bearing into the axle tube using the old bearing or a socket as a driver with a mallet or the BFH. Tap on one side and then the other until it is seated. Just be careful and don't chip the bearing.

I have heard that it is possible to get the outer pinion bearing race out with a slide hammer with a claw attachment, but I have never done this. I just take out the carrier and pinion and drive it out with a drift and BFH. If you mark the positions of the carrier bearing adjuster caps, you can easily get them back in the same posiiton with the same preload and backlash. If the pinion preload adjsuting shims have "spun" you will have to completely reset the pinion preload with the new bearing. If the shim hasn't spun, the old one will be real close, but you may have to go up or down a size to get the prelaod right. Get a complete set of 10 adjusting shims from Toyota and take the ones you don't use back. At least you won't have to fool with pinion depth, which is the real PITA.

Thx PinHead, How can I tell if the pinion preload shims have spun? I pulled the pinion flange and the end surface had a few small rough spots. What does this surface rest against...bearing,
shim, oil slinger??

Spun shims look scored, burned or just generally fawked up. This usually only happens when the outer bearing fails. The flange tightens against the inner bearing race. If you take the seal out and inner bearing race off the pinion, you will see the preload shim and spacer.