I am looking to do the taishaft conversion on my 95 YJ. I am curious if this is the one where the ouput shaft is cut and then retapped? Also how good is this conversion? is it as god as a SYE? WHich is better? Will it get rid of my driveline vibs for my DD?

I'm can't remember off hand but i believe that it is the one that replaces the whole shaft. Try doing a search of the board it might turn up results. Personally I ordered my sye from tom wood, it came with a jb conversions sye and one of his shafts for $550 shipped to my door. I am very pleased with the quality of the parts and highly recommend it. As for those drill and tap kits i have read on this board that they aren't as strong.
Good luck man
Nick

The Currie SYE is one of these where You change the output shaft.

HTH

/F.

you change the shaft but it is still the same type of shaft, not any stonger.

I would reccomend advanced adapters or currie. Advance adapter shafts are beefier and stronger tahn stock. The Tom woods main shafts are conversions from the stock, so you are not gaining any strength. Pretty much what they do is cut and re-size the main shaft. Do not get me wrong; Tom does a great job, but if you are planning on wheeling hard, and possibly later on re-gearing your t-case, etc, I would just do the job right the first time.:D

You can buy advance adapters from tom woods as well, and the different in price is small compared to the durability you are getting.

Another great option is the high angle driveline stuff. From what I have heard, this is an excellent heavy duty setup that beats most others hands down. Their website is a bit sucky, but their product is awesome and can be seen on a bunch of hardcore rigs. I think they are selling a setup including 1/2 ton rear shaft for $550, so I would definitely check into that as well.

Myself, I have just ordered an Advance Adapters setup in December for my YJ on the group buy.


Good luck!

I have had the currie SYE + tom woods DS on for about 4 years and 30,000 miles. No problems yet.

I'll second the no problems part. I've had my Currie SYE for 3 years now and about 20k miles.

ok I feel stupid. What is tom woods web site?

Tom Wood sells both type of sye kits, the ones that use the same shaft that is cut and tapped. He also sells the jb and aa kit with one of his driveshafts. I the jb it is stronger since the shaft is thicker where the old shaft is narrower and has bearings. I say go with one that replaces the shaft with a stronger one like the aa and the jf kit.

check this sites:


www.4xshaft.com and www.highangledriveline.com

well shit fuck. I hate being a student this shit costs too much.:(

Originally posted by yjtj
you change the shaft but it is still the same type of shaft, not any stonger.

Yep, Tom Wood's version is EXACTLY the same as Currie's. Sometimes Tom is cheaper, some times Currie is cheaper. Tom was offering a good deal on the Currie unit last month actually. What, $400 for the unit plus driveline? Not too bad. One thing to consider though: these are cut and tapped shafts, not new replacements. Therefore it is possible that the process was done incorrectly and weakened the shaft. Tom had a batch of 242 shafts a few months ago that were drilled too deep (they source the labor out to another shop) and were snapping off like crazy. For the extra $100, I would just assume get the JB/AA unit.

I guess I'll third the "no problems" statements the other two guys made. I've got 3 years and about 25K on my Currie SYE/Six States shaft and it has always functioned perfectly.

I'll also add the the instructions are first rate and they include photos for every step of the way. The only way you could mess up is if you're a complete idiot or can't read.

These guys are right when they say it's not as strong as the JB or AA kits, but from what you posted in that other thread about using your Jeep for only occaisional off roading, the Currie kit is a good, cost effective solution.

HTH,
Jake

Everytime I see your posts you are asking questions my mom could answer by using search...


:flipoff2:

You're making all the newbies look bad

DO A SEARCH

I have a Currie kit and a Teralow 4 to 1 in my XJ. and I have put almost 60K on both of them with no problems at all. Personally I think its more of a preferance thing than a quality issue. Both Currie and Tom Woods make excellent products. I would stay away from the cheap RE kit. You have to cut, drill, and retap your own shaft. So basicly just go with what you think will best fit your application.:D :D

Originally posted by rockfead2
....Both Currie and Tom Woods make excellent products. I would stay away from the cheap RE kit. You have to cut, drill, and retap your own shaft. ......

Cheap RE kit? .....Uh, hello? The RE kit is the SAME thing as the Currie or Tom Woods kit, except YOU pay them to cut, drill and tap the shaft for you. Seems like high school metal shop level type of work. It' s the same freakin shaft! Why do you think you get charged a core for the Currie or base Tom Wood's kit?

Besides, the RE kit can be installed in less than 2 hours without splitting the tcase. Oh yeah... it's just as strong as the Currie and base Tom Woods setup... a stock shaft is still a stock shaft whether you cut it down, or someone else does....

ok go ahead and get the RE kit and break out the diegrinder cut your shaft (with it still in the case) fill the case with metal shavings, get the trusty yellow drill, drill the center of the shaft, tap the whole. and then hope like hell that you cut the shaft nice and straight and in the right place the hole you drilled is in the exact center and drilled nice and straight. If you manage to do all this without fawkin it up then all the more power to you. But if you fawk up anyone of those steps you are screwed and looking for a replacement shaft. I'm just trying to say there are too many things that could go wrong why risk it when you can buy a shaft already cut and tapped. And it's not that much more work to pull the shaft and put the new one in. Mabey 15 min. more work. I know cause I've pulled mine several times for different reasons. As for the strength issue if your a skinny right peddle kinda guy then you better get an atlas, But if your a sensible driver the shaft will hold up just fine.

One thing I forgot what I ment by cheap was the price not the quality of the product

i have these too- there 535.00 now and 32 spline heavy duty kit- you do have to pull the case and change the output shaft but a little time now is better than alot of time and headache later- This is our 241 kit but very similar to the 231 -its the pic i have handy-Jess

Originally posted by rockfead2
ok go ahead and get the RE kit and break out the diegrinder cut your shaft (with it still in the case) fill the case with metal shavings, get the trusty yellow drill, drill the center of the shaft, tap the whole. and then hope like hell that you cut the shaft nice and straight and in the right place the hole you drilled is in the exact center and drilled nice and straight. If you manage to do all this without fawkin it up then all the more power to you. But if you fawk up anyone of those steps you are screwed and looking for a replacement shaft. I'm just trying to say there are too many things that could go wrong why risk it when you can buy a shaft already cut and tapped. And it's not that much more work to pull the shaft and put the new one in. Mabey 15 min. more work. I know cause I've pulled mine several times for different reasons. As for the strength issue if your a skinny right peddle kinda guy then you better get an atlas, But if your a sensible driver the shaft will hold up just fine.

Geez... this is not rocket science, nor do you need to achieve NASA spec tolerances to successfully install an RE kit! As will any procedure, use QUALITY drills and taps!

Cutting the tailshaft... I can speak for the '96s and above 232/242 tcases. You won't get metal shavings in the tcase as it's all sealed while you make your cut. The tailshaft cut area sticks out beyond the seal. Even on the '95 and older style tcases where you replace the long tail cone with a seal plate, just install the seal plate first. Again, no way of getting shavings in the tcase.

You want a straigh cut? Simple! Once you're ready to make the cut, start your rig, put in reverse. The tailshaft will spin at a really slow rate (remember, reverse is pretty low). Apply cut off tool... it'll be like making a lathe cut. It'll take you less than 45 seconds to cut the end off. Even if it's not ABSOLUTELY straight (but it will come surprisingly close), it doesn't matter! The CV flange will align straight on the tailshaft. All you're doing is removing tailshaft to shorten it. The end of the shaft plays no role in the alignment of the CV flange.

Drilling the tailshaft... Unless you are in a drunken stuppord, eyeball engineering is good enough. How difficult is it to drill a hole 1 1/4" deep? How far off from "straight" can you possibly get? All the bolt does is act as a "saftey" to keep the CV flange from coming off. The CV flange itself is slightly tapered in the splined hole, so when you tap it on with a rubber mallet it going to stay put on the tailshaft. The bolt just insures it does. It's also surprisingly easy to drill the tailshaft, as you've cut off the hardened end. The core of the shaft is easy to drill with a titanium drill. Basic high school metal shop practices apply.... drill a pilot hole first with cutting oil.. the larger and final sized drill will follow the pilot hole. Make sure your hole is deeper than your bolt, or you will bottom out your bolt before it fully tightens.

Tapping the tailshaft... Basic high school metal shop pratices apply here too. Take your time, use cutting oil, clean shaving out often. Use a t-handle tap wrench to apply EVEN pressure as you tap. Using a crescent wrench on a tap insures certain doom of breaking the tap.

Install CV flange... pursuade into place (remember, it's tapered), install retaining bolt... add driveshaft... shim... wheel....

Most RE install fawk up's are due to operator error...

Mark my words -if you run the 2" pilot flange when you bolt it on your exixsting output shaft it will break- i'll post up pics - Jess

if you on a budget you can run this set up- its a whole lot better than the hack and wack- 349.00 but you have to have your pinion angle 2 degree's down-Jess

this is what your angle would need to look like -Jess

I was under the impression that the purpose of a SYE was to:

-Reduce driveline angles by shortening the tailshaft. Shorter tailshaft, means longer driveshaft, which means reduced u-joint angles. CV setup takes it one step further...

-In '96s and newer 231/242's to reduce the amount of unsupported exposed tailshaft. This would reduce the potential of bending by binding a tailshaft / u-joints at extreme droop levels. Pre '96s don't have that problem because of the longer tailcone which supports the tailshaft better, because less of it is exposed.

-Be able to move the seal from the slip yoke to the tailshaft (in the case of pre '96 231/242's) so that you could remove the driveshaft and not lose tcase fluid.

-Getting rid of vibes is a side benefit.

The pic of your driveshaft seems to address the vibe issue only, and not the other issues above. Please correct me if I'm wrong...

Originally posted by GonPostal


[buncha incomprehensible drivel]

...Most RE install fawk up's are due to operator error


Dude, isn't that exactly what he just said?

:flipoff2:

a pic of this style 1310 flange - its weak made for a bronco ll guys this is normal breakage - a bit of a weak link too weak- this is what i am talking about - this is the type of flange set up tom used for a while -currie and re- it appears tom has changed to a 32 spline kit thank god- i'd stay far away from this - it does make the unit about 3" shorter and as fixed stlye but the driveline becomes a junk box- so that's why i offered the slip yoke c/v enen though its not concidered the best way becuase its not a fixed yoke it is 2 times better than the 1/2 series flange type of driveline offered by others- i'm here to help make you aware of potential problems - reguardless if i sell or not- Jess

here's the kit that i concider the best style- Jess

I really like that kit but I don't have funds enough for it. My job sucks ass and being a student I don't get enough time to actually work. so unless there is a way I can get it for less I don't see myself being able to afford that one. But it looks great. Nice work on it.

ok well maybe $535 is not bad for that kind of workmanship. Might take me a while though.

save your money -its worth the wait- Jess

onetoncv...how much for a custom lenght cv shaft... i have a sye new (in the box) and i am installing a Dana 61 rear axle 12" farther back than stock

Jess is right his work is worth the wait. I am running his rear oneton jobby, and saving my pennies for what ever I am gonna do in the front. I am not sure if I want to runa on of those carrier bearing thingie-jiga-mabobbers. HMMMMMM What do you think Jess Have you talked to Bob lately about what we should do up front?

Jimmy lonnnnng jeep guy

redrum- most are 289.00$ -jimmy have not talked to bob in a week- vic called though and we shipped to bob's shop- should i call bob? Jess

No don't call him yet lets et it going first, then we'll get it going over stuff.