I just bought a 82 toy pickup. I need to to a power steering conversion before I get big tires and a front locker. What would the cheepest way to do a power steeing convesion? Also, I always hear that you shouldn't use a spool or lincoln locker up front if you do a lot of on road driving. How would it effect on road performance if you have locking hubs? Also, should i weld the rear, or save up for an automatic locker.
A new problem. My third member went out(pinion shaft splines striped) and the new one i got has 4.10 gears my old one has 4.11 gears. Is this too much of a difference to worry about or not?

The reason non of us run a spool or welded front axle has nothing to do with street performance. As you said, with locking hubs it becomes a non-issue, really.

But run a solid diff offroad and you'll likely be popping birfields left and right.

Go ahead and weld the rear. It works great, you just wear tires down a little faster. But use a locker up front.

traction :rolleyes:

automatic lockers are designed to lock up when it has power on it (have to start off with the provables)

the problem is that very few yota ones actually unlock for turning when you come off the gas,

so for these lockers there is no point in running an automatic locker when you could get the same effect by weldin the front

some of the other ones unlock fine and they are either quality or absolute shit

the ones that are shit are not only a waste of money but they are complete bitches because they don't engage and when they break it takes out everything with it, as well as being further in the axle to fix

i know i'd sure as hell rather run a welded front and spend some of that money on fusable hubs and keep the rest for when i break my shit :D

never seen other lockers such as the no spin and so on in action (or had to fix them), so i won't pretend

hmmmm, as for driving it on dry pavement in 4wd (wtf?) , get an awd car or just don't do it

anyways :D

So which ones are the shitty ones and which ones are the quality ones?

bad=lockright and no spin (no spin is good for a while)

good=detroit (feel mixed about the arb and electric)

don't have enough experience with other kinds to give you accurate information

btw, these are things that i have seen and would be happy to learn that people have had contradicting experiences

:D

Originally posted by Mr. Yuck
bad=lockright and no spin (no spin is good for a while)

good=detroit
Uh... the "No-Spin" is the "detroit locker".

Detroit makes:

The EZ-Locker: What you're thinking of. Same design as a LockRight - parts just don't interchange.

The No-Spin: The NEW detorit. They've just added dampers to it to smooth out the 'clunking' action.

Also, I do disagree with you on your feelings about the cheaper lockers. My expericence has held that the Lockright and EZ-Locker are no worse about disengaging than the detroit. Either unit will lock up when power is applied. It's that simple. That's the way an auto-locker works. The difference is that you are now FORCING the axles to rotate at the exact same speed all the time, wether power is applied or not.

Plus, the Detroit is a lot more likely to die when a Birfield joint blows, from what I've seen. They just don't tolerate it as well.

the soft locker was the full detroit that is smoother and al little less noise out of it. the no spin i believe is the older louder design.

derek

No spin is the old timers term for the detroit.

No slip is a relatively new product from powertrax, makers of the lock-rite. It is supposed to have much better manners than the lock-rite, but I have never used one.

I have had good luck with lock-rites, but my friend has not.