Serious question guys.....I'm thinking of selling my YJ and buying a sammy to build as a trail only vehicle. If this were the case I'd have a daily driver so as long as the sammy could be wheeled hard, its all good. I'd be talking about a $7k budget that has to include the price of the vehicle. Coilovers and a triangulated 4-link would be nice but I'm not sure I could get away with that for under $7k total. Also, I want to build it myself, not buy something pre-built although that route would be cheaper. Alright what ideas do you have?

EDIT: Well it looks like I'm a moron. I need it for wheeling - east coast style. I stay away from mud pits (lost more than one clutch like that) but I need it for rocks covered in moss or mud, steep hills, off-camber situations, basically an all around vehicle would suit me nice.

1 LWB Samurai
Tricked out 1.3 or 1.6
YJ springs w/SPOA
Sumo 6:1 T-case with a Klune (maybe because these combined are $3500)
centerforce dual friction clutch
Cut D44's locked front and rear
extended wheelbase for non LWB zuk
fully caged -- interior and exterior
power steering
larger gas tank
MT Baja claw radials or GY MTR's
some NICE bumpers
winch and accesories
roof and trail racks for the weekend getaways
skid plates

I could probably keep going but your 7 Grand is long gone by now

I've got about $3000 into mine and that includes purchase price. Click the WWW at the bottom.

I'm pretty new to all the sammy lingo so help me out with some things when you think I might not understand what you're talking about. I've got YJ's covered but all this samurai stuff is foreign to me. (pun intended/bad joke)

-Why do you suggest LWB (I'm guessing long wheelbase?) and what is the wheelbase of that as compared to a normal 'zuk?

-As far as a tricked out motor, I dont need power to be a daily driver and I favor reliability over power.

-Definitely going SOA if I stay with leaves and I'd probably do the YJ thing since I have an extra set of YJ leaves lying around.

-6:1 case sounds nice :eek but whats the reduction on the Klune? (btw: ouch on the $3500)

-I have a centerforce in my YJ and I love it. No more slippy-slippy

-If I'm going to the trouble of putting in D44s why not just leave them regular width? I can always mess with the BS to put the tires in more if need be.

-What kind of wheelbase do sami's like and whats the best way to extend it? (where to add, how much, etc...)

-Power steering is a must since I want to run 35x16 Boggers on 15x12 beadlocked wheels ;)

-Gas tank range isnt an issue since I normally carry cans of gas anyways. (how big is the tank on one anyways?)

-I have MT/Rs now and I love them. I just think if I'm going to a dedicated trail rig I'd like to run boggers since I had them on the YJ for a while and was mucho-impressed.

-Going to build some custom bumpers for myself but I can worry about that later.

-Definitely going to have a winch on this rig just...well...cause I'll need to so I can pull everyone else out :laughing:

-I saw a sammy with a rack built into the cage that mounted in the bed that I would probably model any racks I built after. No overhead racks since I'd be trying to keep CG low.

-Skid plates? I dont need no stinkin' skid plates :D. I'd probably fab some up sooner or later.

not sure on the lengths of the 2. however here is a link to a NICE LWB www.sonic.net/jkwaters/scwafish.htm (I hope you don't mind this Scwafish)
Dave at AAPA (http://www.asianautopartsofaz.com) has some nice engine mods available. you would be looking around 100hp. He also sells the 6.1 t-case
using stock gears and t-case the klune will give you a 9to1 low range woohoo
usually full width D44 are too wide for street use
your already extending your wheelbase if you plan on putting YJ springs....it moves your axle forward (not sure how much:rolleyes: )
The sami has a 10 gal. tank you can get a 15 gal. or have one made to your specs.
I would like to have a Long wheelbase beacause there have been times when my zuk wanted to endo from places being too steep for my own good.

Here's what I'd do, to keep it cheap...

> SPOA w/YJ springs
> 4:1 case (6:1 if you wanna drop the extra $$$) and new t-case mounts
> 4.56 or 5.12 gears
> Lock-right lockers front and rear
> Crossover steering
> Extd. brakelines, driveshafts, shocks, and bumpstops
> Full roll cage
> 33x12.50 MT/R's or Bogger's
> 15x8's with 2" backspacing
> Power steering (my Sidekick set-up works fine)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
> Total: About $4200 without a Zuk (can be cheaper if certain things are done yourself, bought used, etc.)

But, in the end, all that really matters is having something you're happy with. This may be fine for me, but not necessarily too great for someone else. The above is almost the same set-up I'm running and I'm very happy with it. Just my $0.02. ~Steve

Originally posted by jp008
1 LWB Samurai
Tricked out 1.3 or 1.6
YJ springs w/SPOA
Sumo 6:1 T-case with a Klune (maybe because these combined are $3500)
centerforce dual friction clutch
Cut D44's locked front and rear
extended wheelbase for non LWB zuk
fully caged -- interior and exterior
power steering
larger gas tank
MT Baja claw radials or GY MTR's
some NICE bumpers
winch and accesories
roof and trail racks for the weekend getaways
skid plates



You know this description sounds an awful lot like my freind Rick's truck
and it's actually for sale too http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13683

Buy Ricks! Or for 7 grand I would

zuk= $1000
6:1=$1000
waggy 44s with spool and lockright and 4.88s $1000
diy yj spoa=$300 with shocks
steering=600
rebuilt 1600 8v=$1400
tires and wheels=$1000

$700 left for sawzall and seatcovers

kicking ass...priceless:D

Originally posted by scwafish


zuk= $1000
6:1=$1000
waggy 44s with spool and lockright and 4.88s $1000
diy yj spoa=$300 with shocks
steering=600
rebuilt 1600 8v=$1400
tires and wheels=$1000

$700 left for sawzall and seatcovers

kicking ass...priceless:D


This scenario is sounding pretty good for an East-Coast machine. I think you could get away a little cheaper on the P/S - don't forget at least a front cage & a winch.

You had mentioned running 35's. You might want to do some searching to see just how much lift you need on a Samurai to clear that size tire - unless you subscribe to the sawzall club:D


SHEETMETAL?? We don't need no stinkin' SheetMetal!

Good steering is expensive, by the time you get a pump, a box, some sort of histeer, your looking at some cash.

Originally posted by scwafish
Good steering is expensive, by the time you get a pump, a box, some sort of histeer, your looking at some cash.


If you have to buy everything, I agree. But BabyWrangler stated that he would build his own front & rear bumpers, as well as roof rack, etc. If you can fabricate some of your own parts you could save several hundred dollars on the PS swap alone:

You can pick up a complete Toy IFS system for a couple 'bills.

Make your own brackets & crossover (fairly easy for Dana)= maybe another hundred.


Betcha Fatkid has less than $150 in his system.
It PAYS to be connected!:cool:

Yeah, and it's pretty easy to go over budget! Don't forger that. Everyone I know that has built a sammy has, but it is fairly cheap to build a decent one anyways. Mine isn't even off jacks yet and when it is I will have dumped a little over $10,000 into the little biatch! I personally would go 4-link rear and radius arms in the front with QA1 coils from Summit or Jegs for $35 a piece. That way you can have a kick ass suspension and keep it cheap! Mine totalled around $1000 for all the materials! Good luck!

I thought about this a little more, and if you do a lot of mud, you might consider a 4.3 V-6 + auto. Now don't get yer panties in a wad everybody - I like my 4 cyl. (diesel) + 5 speed Just Fine but for MUD horsepower helps. You could save some cash on some of the gearing, too.

I saw Ranger Rick's 4.3L swap - it looks like it came factory that way. :cool:

Originally posted by 0ILBURNER
I thought about this a little more, and if you do a lot of mud, you might consider a 4.3 V-6 + auto. Now don't get yer panties in a wad everybody - I like my 4 cyl. (diesel) + 5 speed Just Fine but for MUD horsepower helps. You could save some cash on some of the gearing, too.

I saw Ranger Rick's 4.3L swap - it looks like it came factory that way. :cool:

Not too interested in doing a motor swap at this point, but thats not to say that a motor swap wouldnt be in the future. As long as I can find a zuk that runs good and can stay running relatively smoothly on bad angles, its good for me. Hell I dont even care what the body looks like since the sawzall will be my new best friend. Anyone got a line on a good running zuk on the east coast? Preferably NC?

I have been looking around and I like the coil conversion that Rocky Road offers. $1500 for front and rear and good flex. I think that would be a purchase I'd make. That along with the 6:1 gears and some toyota axles. Can that kit I'm talking about be used with toyota axles? If so I'd buy one.

So as it looks right now this is what I'd buy:

-Coil Conversion kit from Rocky Road = $1500
-Sumo 6:1 t-case gears = $1200
-Toyota axles with new third members with spools F/R or a spool in the back and a detroit up front (not sure on ratio yet) = $1500?
-35x16 Boggers on A/E 589s in 15x12 = $1489
-Ramsey 8000s F/R = $900
-Enough metal for bumpers/rock sliders/full cage/etc... = $500

So far thats like $7100 and on top of that I have to buy a zuk. Not too shabby. More than I wanted to spend but oh well. Thats life. That reason I used $7k as my figure was because I know I can get that for my YJ. Every day this is looking more and more like its going to happen. :D

I believe he makes a kit for the toy axles, but it' s about $1650. Why not make the kit yourself for $1000? Whatever you wind up doing make sure you order the kit from him and not through RockyRoad! This will save you some wait time. WHen I called this summer about this set up they told me I would have to wait around 3-4 months for the kit due to backorder, but I think they are all caught up by now. Go spool front and rear! I did and works just fine. As for the Eagle 589's............how about some cheapie steelies for $60!!

I would buy an IH Scout II and go from there

Originally posted by nuttzack
Whatever you wind up doing make sure you order the kit from him and not through RockyRoad!

Ok. Sounds like a plan. My only reservations about doing it myself are the fact that all the testing for proper spring rate and link placement has been done and since I'm at college right now and I live in an apartment, I dont have much room to keep a vehicle in "project phase". It would be worth the extra money to me to have something I can install and be done with, even though it would be hella cool if I built it myself. I actually already have a design I drew for a CAD class I had to put a double triangulated 4 link on my YJ, so if the wait time is too long on the kit I'll build my own. It shouldnt be that hard to adapt it to a sammy.

As for the Eagle 589's............how about some cheapie steelies for $60!!

Well thats a quick reference I used to give myself some sort of idea of what its going to cost me. 4 Wheel Parts has a tire and wheel deal for that so thats what I used. In all reality I'll end up with cheap steel wheels I can beat the crap out of instead of purdy aluminum ones. Plus they are cheaper and with the money I'll save by going steel over aluminum, I can almost get a 35x15.5 TSL-SX for a spare.

Keep the ideas going! I'm liking this. Now I just have to buy a daily driver, sell my YJ, buy a sammy, and buld it. Good times. :D

If i had 7 grand, i would build my rig again!

16v kick motor
Sumo 6:1 case (Thanks Dave!)
D44's 62"
5:38's
ARBS
2.5" Wagoneer springs
37" Boggers
15x10" Kings Racing Beadlocks
Exteme Air Onboard compresser
9012 w/ in cab controller
Long Spline CV drivelines from Arizona Driveline
Corbeu Clubman Seats
Full Cage
On Board Shower
Kick pwr steering, custom YJ 4" Pitman arm with Extreme Gear offroad High Steer.

and hopefully soon Dual cases.

This can be driven as a daily driver, can cruise down the freeway at 70 and can go any where i want to go.

Originally posted by skeetshooter
I would buy an IH Scout II and go from there

Strange, I started with a Scout and found myself here. Anyone else?:confused:

Hey Fatkid, what made you decide to go zuk?

Originally posted by skeetshooter
Hey Fatkid, what made you decide to go zuk?

I don't know about fatty, but I fell into mine by accident, and if I had all the money in the world.....I'd still buy a samy

I started out with a Scout too...I had one of the sweetest IHs around...http://www.sonic.net/jkwaters/images/sean_15_small.jpg... and for what it was it was amazingly capable, and even more amazing it stayed pretty damn straight the whole time I had it (over 7 years). Me and Bobaki logged some serious saddle time in that thing, and once he got a zuk the two went everywhere together.

I miss not having a running rig, but I don't miss "the Hippo" everytime I work on the zuk. For example... zuk radiator=1 hand...IH radiator=2 men or 1 man and lower back injury:D.

On extended Rubicon trips I'd top off at Robbs and bring an extra 10 gallons, and run into Tahoe City on fumes. My zuk buddys would top off in pville, run around in the rocks, and make it back to Sacramento before they needed gas!!!!!

My lwb has just as much room for me and the kid, but weighs less than half as much as the corncob. No regrets here!

Originally posted by RudeZuk
If i had 7 grand, i would build my rig again!

How did you manage to even buy everything you have done to your rig for under 7 grand? :confused:

A whole lot of Fabrication and trade work....Not much of anything has been touched by anyone else besides me.

Originally posted by skeetshooter
Hey Fatkid, what made you decide to go zuk?

It looked kinda cool, not to mention I spent 3 years and alot of cash building my Scout. I also noticed that the trails started to get Harder and Harder. We thought about a project that was ultra light, straight axle, EFI, and cheap. Zuks get it.:skull: