Well I did it today and I'll tell you it's not a take off and then bolt on and your done kinda swap.

Here's a pic' of all the parts I got from Toyota(minus the guide tube for the dipstick).
http://hairbear65.homestead.com/files/allparts.jpg

Some pics' of the pans to give you an idea of the differences.
http://hairbear65.homestead.com/files/bothpans.jpg
http://hairbear65.homestead.com/files/bothpans2.jpg

Here's a pic of the T100 baffle. Here's where the problems come in. There is only 1 factory bolt hole that you can use. The hole was used to support the IFS strainer.
Look at the pic'.
RED ARROWS - holes that need to be driled and tapped. I used factory Toy bolts that I had lyin' around. I used a 3/16" bit and a 6mmx1.0 tap(chart calls for a 13/64bit, but using the 3/16 you have a better chance of getting full threads why.. your arm is not a drill press and your hole won't be perfect).
YELLOW ARROW- is a hole in the baffle that I choose not to tap. I seen no reason, being that it's supported front and back.
BLUE CIRCLES- One is the location of the factory bolt hole..the other is my tap threading a hole.
http://hairbear65.homestead.com/files/baffle.jpg

I also choose to use the 3.0 dipstick and just put a new full mark on the stick.....Like Big Bad Bob said..You either have enuf' oil or you don't. Here's apic of the 2 side by side, The T100 is 2.5" longer.
http://hairbear65.homestead.com/files/dipsticks.jpg

This is my ram mounted and finished. I ran into one problem testing the steering side to side. The mounting bolt that attaches the ram to the tierod was hitting my ubolt flip kit. My solution was to remove the spring plate and cut it to fit. The plate had a end that turned up for 1". I just cut the part that turned up at the end.
The red line indicates the distance from the hyd. fitting to the pan. It's a full 4"to 5" now compared to 1/2" before.
http://hairbear65.homestead.com/files/mountedram.jpg

Let me know what you think.
Any ?'s

Thanx Tom

Looks good, what did all that stuff cost. Could you use the baffel that comes with the 3.0? Are all the P/N's in the other thread!!!!:cool: :usa: :cool:

Good info to have. I'll be doing mine soon. I agree with OPP's question... can you just use the 3.0 baf. or does it have one? How was the stock setup before you removed it - ie how did it get by with one bolt.

OPP's.. You can probably use the 3.0 baffle, but I see it this way. The baffle is designed for the type of oilpan that's under it. The 3.0 baffle is sandwiched between the pan and block. The bolts that hold the pan on also hold the 3.0 baffle.
It wasn't that big a deal to mount the 3.4L baffle and you will still have to drill and tap the two rear holes where the 3.4L strainer mounts. So one more hole on the front left in my pic is all thats needed to mount the 3.4 baffle. I don't think the 3.4 strainer will fit using the 3.0 baffle, you'd probably have to drill 2 holes in the back of it(3.0 baffle) for the strainer to mount to the block.

the one factory hole that's circled in blue was one of the two original holes that held the 3.0l strainer on, the other hole is not used.

I drove the truck today on the highway and in the city. I have no bumpsteer, but I have to turn the wheel slower than before. I don't think the factory pump is keeping up with the ram. I'm gonna wait for spring and do the mods on my pump, the steering effort is not bad at all.

Part #'s are correct. I returned everything today that I didn't use. You really only need the pan, baffle and strainer. Just reuse your dipstick and put a new mark on it. For the parts I used and my discount at Toyota it cost about $140.

Thanx Tom

This is the 3.4 strainer mounted up.http://hairbear65.homestead.com/files/oilstrainer.jpg

Tom

i also have a 3.0 and was wondering if i got this correct

you put a T100 oil pan insted of 3.0 for clerence problems right?

i will be going hight steer on my dana too i didn't know this.

is it a 3.4 or 3.0 t100? and is it 2wd or 4wd?

David hows your setup? do you have the stock oil pan? do you have problems with clearence of the high steer?

thanks

It all makes sence now with the strainer pict you just posted. $140 is not too bad for all the clearance it allows. I'll refer back to the previous post for the parts numbers and call my toy. friend tomorrow.

Thanks...

wait a minet is this for clearing that ram? so you will not run in to any problems without the ram right?

thanks

so many Q's i know

Originally posted by deleon87
David hows your setup? do you have the stock oil pan? do you have problems with clearence of the high steer?

thanks I have the stock pan and the tierod rubs the pan a bit. I am also going to ram steering as soon as I figure out the parts I need to buy. I was going to take the pan off and modify it a bit, but now I think I will go with the T-100 2 wheel drive pan.:cool: :usa: :cool:

Originally posted by deleon87
wait a minet is this for clearing that ram? so you will not run in to any problems without the ram right?

thanks

so many Q's i know

Ya I mainly did it to clear the ram. I have the longer Allpro front springs so my tierod is farther forward than normal. You guys ARE going to do this in the future.....meaning the ram. :D :D We just can't stop ourselves and be happy with our current set-up. :p

And you won't run into any problems w/o using the ram.

:usa: Tom

Wow. You 3.0 guys got it rough. Us Tacoma V6 guys can just drain the oil, drop the stock pan and strainer. Scrape a little gasket. Put the new strainer in, spread some RTV and bolt up the new pan. Fill 'er with oil and you're set.

I guess we pay for it later though when we have to find a toy IFS box in the junkyard for steering.

One question. Why not just pull out the mig? It'd probably cost you a quarter of the price even if you got someone at a shop to do it.

I don't think in my case that i'd be able to shape the pan enuf' to clear my ram set-up. I'd end up hitting the strainer inside the pan. This way it's done right and I'll never have to go there again. Plus if i have to work on my ram in the future, i have all the space in the world.
I always see it this way........ If you're gonna waste you time doin' something....then do it right the first time..


My 2cents....
Tom

just did this to my 90 3.0 4runner. here's what i did. i used the T-100 2wd pan, strainer, baffle and gasket. everything on mine boltted right up. i had all 5 holes factor that justmyluck shows. with oil back in i read 1/8" lower on the 3.0 dipstick so i don't think i'll be using the t-100 tube or dipstick. i took the union out and found out the hard way that they are the same. it is a pain in the butt to get the new one back in. my suggestion, don't pull it out.

Lil' blue Yoyo i don't think for the ram you would be able to get enough room with the 3.0 strainer and the mig. the T-100 sits about an inch away from the rear of the pan and the 3.0 sits about center in the pan.

hersh looking at the 3.0 baffle it would take some cutting to get the new strainer to fit. plus i agree with justmyluck, use the stainer that is set up for the pan. just my .02

deleon87 i am running a 84 toy axle 1" forward from stock, 4" lift and i had to do the pan swap to miss my h-steer.

here are the part numbers agian for everything. prices are somthing like this if i remember correctly

Oil Pan $125
12101-65030
Plate (windage tray/baffle) $30
12122-62040
Strainer (pickup tube) $30
15104-62060
Gasket (for pickup tube) $2-3
15147-62020
Dipstick $15
15301-62060
Guide Tube $20
11452-62060
Guide Tube Union $5
9040510033

I ordered my parts yesterday:

Oil Pan
Baffle
Strainer
Gasket

$150 "toy friend" price.

Should be here Tuesday:D

Originally posted by Hersh
I ordered my parts yesterday:

Oil Pan
Baffle
Strainer
Gasket

$150 "toy friend" price.

Should be here Tuesday:D


Blah, blah , blah... :flipoff2: You ever gonna get the bugs worked out and wheel that thing? :rasta:

Originally posted by raybie
just did this to my 90 3.0 4runner. here's what i did. i used the T-100 2wd pan, strainer, baffle and gasket. everything on mine boltted right up. i had all 5 holes factor that justmyluck shows. with oil back in i read 1/8" lower on the 3.0 dipstick so i don't think i'll be using the t-100 tube or dipstick. i took the union out and found out the hard way that they are the same. it is a pain in the butt to get the new one back in. my suggestion, don't pull it out.

You suck Raybie!! :D My luck once again comes thru. I agree on the dipstick, I looked at the tube mount in the block and it looked like a bitch. That's the main reason I skipped it. Congrats! On your easy switch though.
You like the results you got?

Tom:usa:

Originally posted by EricZ



Blah, blah , blah... :flipoff2: You ever gonna get the bugs worked out and wheel that thing? :rasta:

My luck I'll be breaking it in at the Hammers in April:rolleyes: Actually, it looks like I might take it to run Death Valley in mid Feb. - but that's not really wheeling... more like touring. Probably even put the 33's back on for that trip:zzz:

since i had the t-100 dipstick and tube i pulled mine and compared the new to mine. with the dipsticks in the tube and the bottom of the tubes lined up the full mark on the t-100 stick is an 1/8" higher and the low mark on the t-100 stick is about 3/16" lower. so i guess since my 3.0L dipstick range falls with in the t-100 range that is designed for the pan and my tube bolts up with no problem i'll keep using it.

So i m getting ready to do this swap and i couldnt find a 2wd T100 pan but i found a 2wd Normal pickup pan 3.0L V6 1989 has anyone done this swap with this pan? if it doesnt work oh well i got it for 25 bucks

Does it look like the one that is pictured in the thread? Did you get the windage tray and oil pickup tube and strainer. If yes then you are good to go.

I did this swap using a 2wd Normal pickup pan it was a direct bolt on I didn't have to drill or tap anything.

I did this swap using a 2wd Normal pickup pan it was a direct bolt on I didn't have to drill or tap anything.I guess it depends on what year you have, I heard that from a number of people over the years.

I used a stock 3.0 2wd oil pan, baffle and pick up. Got all the parts from the junk yard for 50$ Worked like a charm.

Sweet that is what i like to here, i got the pan but i need to check other junk yards for the baffle and pick up, ive been waiting to do this swap for quite awhile, i modified my 4wd pan to work but it still hits if you are going fast on fire roads

thanks guys :)

finished the swap it worked great no drilling or tapping just bolted the pickup strainer to the factory locations and used the 3.0L 2wd truck pan. i went with a pan and oil pickup from a 3.0l 2wd truck of the same year as my 4runner and it only cost me about 85 bucks:D