First off, I am a Newbie and expect the :flipoff2: but have been using the site for about a year and a half now.

I just got a Jeep with a 305 Chevy, an SM465, NP205 and stock (Dana 30, Amc20)axles. I know that the SM465 Tranny kicks ass, but the NP205 is just too large as my rear driveshaft vibrates with just 2" of lift via shackle. I like this indestructable case and had one in my last rig (a 429 powered 77 Ford with 500 ftlbs of torque), but It is just way to big. I am thinking that my options as far as transfer cases are the Dana 300 or Dana 20. These both require adapters, am I right? Are there any other cases that are significantly shorter than the 205 that bolt up to the SM465. Having done a search, I found none. Which transfer case?

I plan to run a SOA with 2" lift YJ springs from BDS or maybe Rubicon Express if $$$ seems feasable. I also want to run some 35" boggers in rear and swampers up front. Would some full width Dana 44 hold up without putting alloy shafts and CTM joints in. I was thinking, what about adding hub fuses and CTM joints to avoid breaking the soft shafts that come stock. It seems alot easier and cheaper to spend $30 on new hub fuses than a new shaft. I am primarily wheeling in the Southeast on mudy rock strewn trails (Tellico). Any other suggestions on the buildup would be helpfull? I am open to ideas?

I don't know if you know what your doing but if I was you I would keep the drivetrain.

I think you could get away with moving the motor all the way forward to gain some driveline. Also you could get some wagoneer springs that have the springs offset to get some rear driveline.

Another idea would be to get ideas on a rear 4-link so you can move the axle back as far as you want.

If I was you I would look for axles off a wagoneer and outboard the front springs.

I am guessing the 305 isn't that strong as they typically aren't so you shouldn't be to bad for breakage.

Another option would be to get a widetrack 30 and a 44 of sorts or a 9 inch out of a bronco / lincoln

Id go the cheapest setup possible and changing transfer cases isn't cheap

Depending on the use of your vehicle take a look at the coils thread in the cruiser section. You could easily do something like that

arndog

Is your rear driveline long enough to fit a CV in? If so that should take care of the vibes. If not the a 465 to 20 adaptor should be easy to find and the 20 is cheeper than the 300 by far.

Chop the tub, extend the wheelbase. Get some 1-ton running gear and a new d-shaft.

-J

This is my daily driver. It cannot be out of use for more than say two weeks. I am comfortable with moving the engine forward, but I do not have the time right now to undergo such a task. I like the idea of keeping my transfer case for as long as possible as a new case will probably run me in excess of $400 and the adapter is close to that too. I really don't have the money to do a coilover right now as I would have to have someone do that for me, (I do not presently have a tube bender or welder).

So, I am down to the CV shaft or offset springs.

:confused:

I saw an article in one of the more popular 4wd magazines about using offset springs from an older company, I just forgot the name. If I were to use springs such as these so that the longer part of the offset was forward and I moved my rear shackle to accomidate the added length, could this get me enough extra length in the wheelbase for a springover to work without changing to a shorter transfer case.

As for a CV shaft. I believe that a CV joint could fit, but they cost quite a bit as well, and I would want to change springs when I go and do the spring over anyway.
Would the offset springs screw my road manners up? I don't have much experience with an offset leaf spring. :(
Thanks for all of your replies.

[i]Would some full width Dana 44 hold up without putting alloy shafts and CTM joints in. I was thinking, what about adding hub fuses and CTM joints to avoid breaking the soft shafts that come stock. It seems alot easier and cheaper to spend $30 on new hub fuses than a new shaft. I am primarily wheeling in the Southeast on mudy rock strewn trails (Tellico). Any other suggestions on the buildup would be helpfull? I am open to ideas? [/B]

why would you spend the $$ on someting that "may be strong enough" ?... do 60's then you know u will be strong enough and not have to worry about pos hub fuses...FWIW you can build 60's for about 100$ more than you can 44's... best 100$ i spent on my Jeep

Originally posted by xBabyJesus
Chop the tub, extend the wheelbase. Get some 1-ton running gear and a new d-shaft.

-J
Yeah because thats always the best and most feasible answer.. :rolleyes:

Get a dana 20 (short and cheap) and some wagoneer axles front and rear. it should be fairly strong and is upgradable in the future as time and money allows. the idea of being able to build a dana 60 front for just $100 more then a 44 is total BS, I just priced axles localy and found a 60 front for $1200 and am getting a dana 44 front for next to nothing (at most $200). I wouldnt waste my money on the hub fuses go down to the junkyard and get some spare axles shafts till you can afford CTM's and alloy shafts.

the main cost difference between a front 44 and front 60 is the initial cost of the housing...then gears lockers axles everything else is comparable...I didn't say the same...just comparable:D For rears you can often pickup a rear 60 for the same as a rear 44...I say go 1 ton running gear

I picked up a used bronco d-shaft for a 5 for 50 bucks. worked like a charm.

I am guessing here but I would say that you don't have enough room for a cv well to set it up properly

arndog