Ok, I've got a Wrangler D30 axle, Soa w/highsteer on an s-10. This setup has been installed on a s-10 blazer before me.

I get a vibration in the cab at highway speeds. But not through the steering wheel. The steering wheel doesn't jerk around at all, and I don't get bump steer ( the steering rod is very level) I've got front mounted shackles and 2" johny joints in the rear eyelettes of the leaf spring.

I've been told that I should run a track bar, since it's setup like a jeep front, it's SOA, and the johny joints in the eyelettes. I've considered using an aftermarkets trackbars for the wranglers, so it will clear the front diff and such, also using the factory mount on the axle. But these units are a little pricey for being a bar with eyeletts. I'm sure they're stout units though. And then I'm not TOTALLY sure they'll work for what I've got.

Here's the thought process I'm wondering about:
Tracbars, idealy, should be as level as possible, much like the steering rod to prevent "pushing" the suspension when going over a bump. With the current setup (using the factory mount), there would be quite an angle from the axle to the frame unless I dropped the frame mounted side way down, plus it would have to be bent to clear the diff (more custom work)

but.......

If I mounted the track bar on TOP of the diff, going the OPPOSITE direction of the steering rod, I wouldn't have to worry about interferance of the diff, and getting it level would be much easier to accomplish, plus it would be straight, which would be much easier to fabricate.

but....

if there was any bumpsteer, the trackbar and the steering rod would be pushing in opposite directions. This is my main concern????? while the steering would pushing the tires to the right, the track bar would "push" the suspension to the left.

Help!!??

Originally posted by sfazr2
Ok, I've got a Wrangler D30 axle, Soa w/highsteer on an s-10. This setup has been installed on a s-10 blazer before me.

I get a vibration in the cab at highway speeds. But not through the steering wheel. The steering wheel doesn't jerk around at all, and I don't get bump steer ( the steering rod is very level) I've got front mounted shackles and 2" johny joints in the rear eyelettes of the leaf spring.

If you don't have vibes through the front steering wheel, then why would you think it is a front axle location problem? Rear drive line, bent wheel, 400 lb. girlfriend? Sure your box is tight?

I've been told that I should run a track bar, since it's setup like a jeep front, it's SOA, and the johny joints in the eyelettes. I've considered using an aftermarkets trackbars for the wranglers, so it will clear the front diff and such, also using the factory mount on the axle. But these units are a little pricey for being a bar with eyeletts. I'm sure they're stout units though. And then I'm not TOTALLY sure they'll work for what I've got.

By whom, the same guy that sold you the Dana 30? There are a lot of rigs that never had a trac bar from the factory with leafs, Old Heeps, Scouts, etc. The Johnny Joints are not going to help, I would look at going to Poly Bushings.

Here's the thought process I'm wondering about:
Tracbars, idealy, should be as level as possible, much like the steering rod to prevent "pushing" the suspension when going over a bump. With the current setup (using the factory mount), there would be quite an angle from the axle to the frame unless I dropped the frame mounted side way down, plus it would have to be bent to clear the diff (more custom work)

The trac bar needs to run parallel with the drag link, other wise your steering problems are only going to get worse.


but.......


No thanks I'll pass on the but :rainbow:

If I mounted the track bar on TOP of the diff, going the OPPOSITE direction of the steering rod, I wouldn't have to worry about interferance of the diff, and getting it level would be much easier to accomplish, plus it would be straight, which would be much easier to fabricate.

but....

if there was any bumpsteer, the trackbar and the steering rod would be pushing in opposite directions. This is my main concern????? while the steering would pushing the tires to the right, the track bar would "push" the suspension to the left.

Help!!??

Hello more bump steer with that setup

yeah I guess that setup would increase the bump steer.

I think the vibration is at the leaf mounts because you're trying to push the vehicle with the shackle end of the leafs, and then the other end is the johny joint.

The main leafs are the same all the way around so I think I'm going to swap them all around (front to rear) and see what happens. I probably will have to switch to bushings in the eyeletts and maybe even change the shackles to the rear instead of the lead of the springs.

Damn more homework!!

Originally posted by sfazr2
yeah I guess that setup would increase the bump steer.

I think the vibration is at the leaf mounts because you're trying to push the vehicle with the shackle end of the leafs, and then the other end is the johny joint.

The main leafs are the same all the way around so I think I'm going to swap them all around (front to rear) and see what happens. I probably will have to switch to bushings in the eyeletts and maybe even change the shackles to the rear instead of the lead of the springs.

Damn more homework!!

Scout's have the shackle in front, and so do Heeps. Have you tried rotating the tires? I don't have vibes, the steering is sloppy but that's what you get with a leaf sprung front end and no locating hardware. Is this a new problem or since you have done the swap?

I have a spring over FJ-40 and I don't run a track bar. I would say your vibration is either your tires of maybe driveshaft. Try taking the rear shaft off, and running in 4x4 with the front shaft and see if it goes away.

Dana 30?? Good lord man what were you thinking?? I hope you didn't to much for that axle. :D

I only paid $100 for the front D30, and it was already converted to high steer, SOA, and 4.10's.

I mean how much is a D44 from a waggy, w/ a drivers diff w/ 4.10's, converted to high steer and SOA?? Sure I could have a D44 or D60 from a full size with the wheels sticking out all over the place, like my s-blazer friend, but I don't feel like getting pulled over every night. Trust me, for this truck, this was the best choice without having to win the lottery. Besides, this truck is still new enough that I'm not going to enter any ARCA competitions. Just strong enough to handle better than the IFS on it before. I think I will take the wheels in tomorrow to get them re balanced.

Maybe I can get them to do a prebalance or something, to balance the tire against the wheel??? The rim is pretty light (aluminum) so I really don't see it being much against the weight of the tire.