I found lots of topics searching, but no install answers. I got a cheap piece from the local platic place for my windshield. I plan to put it straight to my cage. Anyway, I planned to use small sheet metal screws, with some slighlty bigger washers. Should I snug the screws down tight, or should I leave them just snug, as to allow the lexan to flex some upon impact of branches and such? Or is there a better way all together? Dennis

I use zip ties on mine. Didn't want to put any holes in the cage. I find it easy to install and uninstall. Never had a problem w/ it.

Run small tabs around the inside of the cage where the windshield goes, use small bolts and Nylock nuts, leave them slightly loose, the nylock nut will keep the whole works together without running the risk of dropping nuts, bolts or cracking out to the edges on your lexan

just my $.02

Thanks, both sound like good ideas. I was worried about putting holes in my cage also. I guess I have so much going on, my brain just wasn't proccessing right. I have a whole mason jar full of nylon lined nuts and bolts. Where did you get the tabs? And I guess you tack welded them? I also like the zip things. I may do that on the back, and see which I like best over time. Dennis

Definitely go loose. Most lexan has an expansion rate if 1/8" per foot. Meaning if you make it tight in the summer it will be REALLY tight in the winter when it shrinks or if you make it tight in the winter it will bow between the fasteners in the summer when it has expanded. Make sense??

A&A mfg.

dirt cheap, nicely cut

A & A (http://www.aa-mfg.com/)

Some rubber washers on both sides will allow for expansion and flex, but keep it from rattling too much.

Some rubber washers on both sides will allow for expansion and flex, but keep it from rattling too much.

Second that! Weld tabs to your cage with holes the same size as the bolts you plan on running. For the Lexan drill your hole slightly larger in diameter to account for movement, expansion, contraction, deflection, ect. Then run rubber washers on both sides and gently snug the nylocks. Note, when you drill your lexan don't make any of your holes too close to the edge, 1"-1.5" from the edge works for 1/4-3/8's stuff. Also don't drill your holes down in the corners, give your corners 6" or so before you drill. Any stress there and you're crack the corner out, between the two holes that are down in the corner.

Edit: Also while you're at it, you might as well cut up and drill at least one back up while you got all the tools out, 'cause you will not believe how fast these things get scratched up to the point of replacement, especially if you see any mud at all.

Sounds good. Thanks for the info, more than I thought to it! I will follow everything stated above to a T Dennis

I do a lot of plastics fab and there can be problems drilling a hole close to the edge. It may crack at some time. An old trick is to use a soldering iron to melt the hole, then just trim back the excess with a razor blade. The melting of the hole leaves it stronger than a cut.

If you are mounting to a cage, get the tiewraps that have a screw mounting hole on the end. Use your screw/nylock through that hole and then the tiewrap goes around the tubing.

Kept tweeking the frame and breaking the glass, and went with lexan, 1/4 in. w/ the mr10 coating. Wasn't aware of mounting lose or snug, just cut it the shape and drill holes in the lexan and frame lip at the same time, and used small ss screws, washers and nuts. Did use double sided rubber tape between the lexan and frame for some cushion. Its been hit hard, with limbs and rocks, and I clean it just like the rest of the rig, no scratches or cracks and its been in there about a year. I did notice the coated material was more exspensive, but it is holding up great and the rain runs off it like it got rainx on it. It doesn't see extreme temp changes, so that might be why there hasn't been a problem, if it ain't hotter then hell here, its just cool. :D

we use the Bayer brand Polycarbonite at work, its real flexable and make a good windshield. I cut them out of card board to fit then cut the 1/4" polycarb to fit ,then grind the edges to remove any sharpys. then once it fits the hole I vise grip it in a couple of spots and then lay out my holes for bolts(1/4" with 1 1/2"flat washers) you can use the nyloc nuts if you like and then just snug everything down. I drill the holes at 9/32"about 3-4 inchs on center to give for expansion. I think this works best but I only build High G sled bucks for testing air bags, some of my windshields have hundreds of hit on them and no cracks yet.