Well I just orderd my 5.29's and ARB for the rear. Future plans include a york compressor, so I held off buying the ARB compressor. My ? is, has anyone figured out a elect. air solenoid valve to replace the ARB one? I searched this subject and came up with manual air brake valves out of big rigs (easier to run wires than hoses into cab). I was looking at some in the SURPLUS CENTER catolog but most were 24V. (good catolog, hyd., elect., air, pressure switches, hoses, ect, free cat. 1-800-488-3407, no web site though). BTW I saw air tanks in there, long cylindrical ones, 2.8, or 4.5 gal. for only $35.00 to 37.00 .

Originally posted by TanToy
Well I just orderd my 5.29's and ARB for the rear. Future plans include a york compressor, so I held off buying the ARB compressor. My ? is, has anyone figured out a elect. air solenoid valve to replace the ARB one? I searched this subject and came up with manual air brake valves out of big rigs (easier to run wires than hoses into cab). I was looking at some in the SURPLUS CENTER catolog but most were 24V. (good catolog, hyd., elect., air, pressure switches, hoses, ect, free cat. 1-800-488-3407, no web site though). BTW I saw air tanks in there, long cylindrical ones, 2.8, or 4.5 gal. for only $35.00 to 37.00 .

My ARB locker(s) came with the solenoids and switches. No wiring harness (that comes with the compressor) so I just cut off the ARB connector and used a 2-wire Molex plug.

Not sure what your goal really is here, so I'll elaborate a little on both:

The stock ARB switch system uses electric push-button switches to actuate the compressor and lockers. It's the easiest to do (as you said, easier to run wires than air lines) but more complex.

The other way to go is the simplest route. All pneumatic. You run an air line from your source (regulated to 60-80 PSI, of course) to two of these <a href="http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/all/switch/index.htm" target="new">pneumatic toggle switches</a>, to your lockers. The advantages of this system are that it's more reliable (far simpler) and it's easier to locate a problem than with electrical systems (just listen for the hiss) - but any problems with be probably be more difficult to repair than just splicing electrical wires, and it's slightly more challenging to install.

check out www.onboard air.com and he can hook you up with anything you will need and although it costs a little more it is one stop shoping. I got my stuff from granger and a couple more dealers but it wasnt worth it after shiping from a couple of differnt places to hook up a york.

Try looking up Mac Valves. My original ARB solenoid was manufactured by them.

What make you say the pneumatic valve is more reliable than the solenoid valve?

Have you seen failure rate numbers or ???

Jay

I use an eaton-fuller 18 speed shifter handle. Two air switches one for the front and rear locker. Run an air source to it and supply out to the lockers. Switches are independant and are located on the shifter, no holes in the dash.

Originally posted by locrwln
I use an eaton-fuller 18 speed shifter handle. Two air switches one for the front and rear locker. Run an air source to it and supply out to the lockers. Switches are independant and are located on the shifter, no holes in the dash. Dumbass. Why didnt I think of that? I work at a truck dealer. This would be perfect. I guess I will go look in the gear room.

Ok, I will clarify my ?. I bought just the ARB diff unit. I need the air solonoid. I did not want to buy it from ARB because $$$. I was assuming that the solonoid didn't come with the diff. If it does, than great ,I will use it. I was not trying to imply that The elect. solonoid was any better than, or more reliable than a manual valve, or vise versa. Just easier to hook up. When you think about it, the ARB is basicaly a single acting air cylinder. Pressure one way, spring back. So wouldn't a valve for a single acting cylinder work? Any way, thanks for the replys!