I did a search and came up with only one post with a link in it.

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/doubler.htm

Costs $750 and I need a 205 to go with my current 203.

Sooooo I'm thinking that since the 203 hangs down REAL far and who knows how much I will have to pay for a 205 I should find a better way.

I can get an Atlas for not a whole lot more and have some added features.

Suggestions? Comments? Criticism? Let me have it. :D

im pretty sure they can clock both TC's. you might want to give them a call

The part of the 203 they use doesn't really hang down. ORD will clock the adapter to your liking, might check their site for some pics.

Alternatly, I someone posted earlier that Wagoner Machine is making 3.6:1 gears for the 203. Not sure what all is involved, their site said $1000 + core gears.

Pete

I am going to be running the TH400 version of the DOUBLER (www.offroaddesign.com) in my '76 Cherokee. ORD is going to clock it up 2" so the whole set up is nice and flat. You just have to make sure that you have enough clearance so it doesn't hit up under the body. I am also going to be getting the ORD "twin-stick" as well. Take a second look at the features of both the DOUBLER and the Atlas before you make your final decision. I went with the DOUBLER because of the selectable ratios, 1:1, 2:1, 4:1; 2WD, 4WD; FWD, RWD; and any combination you could want. But thats just my .02. :D

I run a 203 doubler between my 435 and dana 20 ........

I love it. If I had all the money in the world, I would buy the 203/atlas adapter (can't remember who is making it now, someone is), and run a 3:1 atlas behind my doubler. That would be the perfect world, a dual transfer case setup with super strong components, dual shifters, and easier to use shifters, that could be closed for a flat skid.

The thing I love about it is besides the extreme low range you have way more options for times when you DON'T need the extreme low range. If you run a manual tranny this helps a lot, I find. For easy trails (or the easy part of the trail leading to the good part) I can run at just 2:1 so I'm not holding people up or having trouble finding the right gear. I can use the middle range for medium hard trails, etc etc etc. There's always a gear which matches the situation.

Also I like being able to pop the 203 into high when reversing. This is helpful because on the 435 reverse is the same as 1st, 6.69:1, which means it can take forever to reverse out of somewhere. The 203 shifts real easy, so it is easy to pop it into high, whereas the twin sticked 20 is not so easy to shift, so I like it that way too.

Bottom line is FLEXIBILITY. Now many on this list do nothing but hard core rock crawling, in which case a straight atlas might make sense, but if you, like me, do more than that, and run all kinds of trails, or simply run trails that have long easy sections before getting to the good part, then that flexibility can come in handy - although it would come at the expense of some potential reliability when compared to just an atlas, I suppose.

Chad

Nice pic:

The 203 part is to the right and the 205 case is on the left

Isn't it the other way around?

Thanks for all the great info guys!! Chad, I think you are right, I will be doing alot of slow rock crawling but there's alot of mud and faster stuff on the way to the good stuff. This might be the way to go after all.

tigger4x, I read and re-read the doubler page and don't understand the 2WD, 4WD; FWD, RWD deal. It's just a 203 in front of a 205. Is there a modification to the 205 to make it run in FWD that I missed? That was the only thing the atlas had in addition I thought. :confused:

I only want to make the crossmember and buy driveshafts once. I'm gonna be smart this round take it slow and do it right the first time. :D

Originally posted by MattS

tigger4x, I read and re-read the doubler page and don't understand the 2WD, 4WD; FWD, RWD deal. It's just a 203 in front of a 205. Is there a modification to the 205 to make it run in FWD that I missed? That was the only thing the atlas had in addition I thought. :confused:

You can twin stick the 205 and have low FWD.

Here is a link to one that you can adapt to a 205: http://128.121.255.231/purchase/product.asp?uid=&item=309

It is also rumored that ORD can make you a twin stick for the 205. OR you can look at the link brector put up and use this as a go by.

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v4/6/15/72/29261572qEocaWQURl_fs.jpg

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v4/6/16/2/29261602bwQSRxGPpi_fs.jpg

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v4/6/16/63/29261663ZfWWwOPZDc_ph.jpg

I did not understand how the 2 sticks worked. I just assumed that one was for the front case and the other was for the rear. There's no way someone could steal my truck after the twin stick!! LOL

I learned alot today. Thanks guys!! Now I just need to save this and wait till the bank account can be drained again. :D Looks like the doubler is the one for me.

Figure if you're running a manual, somebody tried to take your truck and found 4 sticks coming out of the floor, you'de have em. Just don't get so much happening w/ the shifts that you forget to drive :D:D

LOL Thankfully I have a 700R4 and I won't have to deal with another stick.

Originally posted by Kyle89K5
Figure if you're running a manual, somebody tried to take your truck and found 4 sticks coming out of the floor, you'de have em. Just don't get so much happening w/ the shifts that you forget to drive :D:D

Then you make them all quick release, and lock them where they can't be found...

My ass would lose the key. That's why run a softop, keyless entry :D:D

I'm installing a 203/205 ORD doubler right now. In a perfect world I'd like to have a Klune in front of an Atlas but that's better than 4k worth of gear reduction. I already run the 205 and picked up a 203 for 20.00. With the twin stick setup and redoing my drivelines I still think I'll be in this deal less than 1200.00. Hope it works out!

What twin stick did you buy? Post some pics. :D

Originally posted by Steve Sommer
I'm installing a 203/205 ORD doubler right now. In a perfect world I'd like to have a Klune in front of an Atlas but that's better than 4k worth of gear reduction. I already run the 205 and picked up a 203 for 20.00. With the twin stick setup and redoing my drivelines I still think I'll be in this deal less than 1200.00. Hope it works out!

If you're serious about it we can turn the 203 up 90 degrees to make it flatter, but generally the 203 sits pretty far forward so it might not be a concern. Or if you have a ford front axle, we can turn both cases flat. That makes the TH700 pan real close to being the lowest point on the drivetrain. But get ready to fabricate floorboards and do some serious monkey motion with the front driveshaft. We could turn both cases flat with a GM front axle and NP205 also.

Cool, nothing like getting the guy that works there to lay it out!! :D

I am replacing my toy axles with D60's, I want the pan to be as flat as possible. My turbo 4.3 downpipe exits on the passenger side. How about this:

use my current 203, buy the doubler and a ford 205, buy a HP ford driver side drop d60. That will get the drive shaft angle up a little higher and keep the shaft on the driver side away from the exhaust. I don't mind cutting floorboards. Any excuse to use the welder is welcome. :D

Originally posted by Stephen
If you're serious about it we can turn the 203 up 90 degrees to make it flatter, but generally the 203 sits pretty far forward so it might not be a concern. Or if you have a ford front axle, we can turn both cases flat. That makes the TH700 pan real close to being the lowest point on the drivetrain. But get ready to fabricate floorboards and do some serious monkey motion with the front driveshaft. We could turn both cases flat with a GM front axle and NP205 also.

i ran the 203/205 in my 82 toy for the last 5years until i rolled it 1 1/2 years ago no complaints at all it is a super bullet proof set up i was running an 85 3.8 turbo not as pumped as yours sounds i had it behind a advance range splitter & sm 465 the only thing i really paid attention to was the choice of inputs into the 205 they range from 10 spline up to the turbo 400 32 spline the 203 shaft can be turned down and splined to mate to any of these the bigger the better i think the ford is 31 spline/definetily clock the 205 as i had problems sbnagging on it

GOOD LUCK YOUR TRUCK SOUNDS WICKED

My $0.02 woth. I'm extremely happy with my 203/205 doubler in my 10,000 lb F350 crewcab turbo diesel expedition rig. The Atlas isn't a weaking by any means but it isn't quite the caliber of the 205 or the 203 GRB. Its' gear/bearing size fall between a D20 and 205, and the aluminum case and (small) 4.3:1 gears...
Charlie

check out www.wagonermachine.com
go to the new products page. John and boys have been making these set ups for a long time and do excelent work.

I love mine! I mean heck it help me beat the guy making um. And idont think i could of done it without the doubler. Or at least not beat stephen so i have to thank him for getting it too me in time to build my triple stick. and getting a little used too it. And stephen knows his s*** and besides that he will work with you if needed to reclock it or whatever the case may be

I will gladly follow bigblaze and offer high marks for Stephen (ORD) for both his product quality and customer service (although in my case it did take a long time). My gearboxes are shown below and include an SM465, NP203 and NP205 modified for twin-stick shifting and incorporating an electronic VSS. My 205 is a late model GM with the round input bolt pattern. Stephen modified the adapter for this 205 and clocked it up 2". I haven't run it yet, but expect the best. This drivetrain will be powered by a 5.7L Vortec and the D60 diffs will have 5.89 gears, producing a crawl ratio of 155:1.
http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~jrice/NP205/Gears1.jpg

Matt, there's a photo on the "custom rotations" page of my Doubler with the GM203 turned 90 degrees and the ford 205 turned up flat (or close to it). We've refined it a bit since that, but it's the same concept, just more purpose built. I still needed about 36 degrees of front driveshaft angle to get it to work out, but I have 15" of vertical in the front on top of 6" of lift, so it moves a lot. The only thing below my frame rails now is a 3/16" plate. It's 28" flat across the belly, I slid a trash can under it tonight to get it out of the way!
I think Brian remembers who told him about the changed entry deadline too. I had a feeling I could be stepping on my whanger by helping him out.........
Oh well, our t-case was the in top 2 spots and it's the first time a fullsize has done that well and we did a 1-2.

Just think if you tried to use an atlas in the mud :rolleyes: you would have to shift into overdrive just to get decent gearing! And if the mud is anythin substantial you really need 4-low. I Hope to have a dana 300 behind my toy reduction box someday.

Originally posted by NE-RokToy
Just think if you tried to use an atlas in the mud :rolleyes: you would have to shift into overdrive just to get decent gearing! And if the mud is anythin substantial you really need 4-low. I Hope to have a dana 300 behind my toy reduction box someday.

have you seen the toy red box to dana 300 at

www.ottindustries.com
NICE PIECE

Originally posted by Stephen
SNIP... there's a photo on the "custom rotations" page of my Doubler with the GM203 turned 90 degrees and the ford 205 turned up flat (or close to it). SNIP... Oh well, our t-case was the in top 2 spots and it's the first time a fullsize has done that well and we did a 1-2.

Stephen, I have a FSJ '76 Cherokee with a 360 & TH400. I am going to be running the 32 spline NP203 & NP205 with your Doubler kit, twin sticked of course. I will be running a DANA60 front and a 14BOLT rear. My question is "If I have you clock the cases so its flat, what kind of driveline issues should I expect?" I don't have to worry about body clearance as I am running enough body lift, 3". Thanks, Keith

tigger4x,

List how high your lifted he will need that. Also you could fake it and imagine where it will end up flat and take measurements and then ask Jess over at highangle. He would be the person to tell you how much angle you can run for a shaft XX long.

MattS... I am currently running with 3" of body lift and an SOA front and rear. I guess I'll have to wait until I get the full drivetrain bolted in before I'll really know how long the shafts will have to be. I will definitely be going to Jess for my (cv)shafts though.:D I was just kinda hoping to figure out if I would run into any issues that I could work out before its too late. BTW, I am loking to run between 38" - 39.5" tires.

Medusa
How did you incorporate the electronic VSS?

What twin stick did you buy? Post some pics

Sorry to take so long to get back to you. I ordered ORD's twin stick setup but haven't recieved them yet. Steve was hoping to get them out this week but I wasn't able to call him today. So far I've recieved the new input shaft and bearing kit for my 205,(had to change to 32 spline), but haven't recieved the 203 adapter or the sticks yet. Hopefully it will be soon as I'm going on vacation in two weeks and will be the middle of February before I can get around to finishing this install if they don't come soon.