I know I have heard about a few rigs having 3 link front suspensions, but I have never seen pic of one, or how they actually do. So does anyone have any pics or info on them? thanks. garrett

I built a 3 link front. The angles aren't quite right, but it does work nicely. One thing to consider if you want to keep away from bump steer, you'll need a tracbar which makes it a 4 link IMHO. I run full hydro steering so bumpsteer isn't an issue, and I don't drive her on the road. I'm in class right now, but I'll get a pic later.

Easy

Originally posted by PW
I know I have heard about a few rigs having 3 link front suspensions, but I have never seen pic of one, or how they actually do. So does anyone have any pics or info on them? thanks. garrett

Just look at any 79 and older 4X4 Ford half-ton

I am building a 3-link on my S10 right now. Anyone will tell you there are pros and cons to all of them. I can't say how good mine is on the trail yet, it isn't trail ready. I can tell you that a 3-link has no [what I call] natural binding. With a triangulated 4-link for instance, the joints will always be binding, even just a little bit, due to the flexing of the frame or the joints or from nicking a control arm on a rock. In other words, if you changed the length of just 1 link something has to bind up or break. A 3-link is free-flowing, free of binding even when a link is bent.

Of course a 3-link also can have more side to side movement of the axle from the panhard, expecially if you can't get it level at ride height. But the panhard also basically eliminates bump steer if it's done right.

There are other considerations, like what just plain will fit your chassis.

Squash

I'm running 3 leading links and a panhard bar and it works really well, mostly due to the lack of bind that squash brought up. Articulates very freely, good vertical travel, pinion controlled just like I wanted it, etc. You will get different castor change with body roll if the upper link is more to one side than the other, so DW effects can be different going around corners, etc. But otherwise it's great.

FYI with my setup having 2 links on the diff side and positioning them correctly, I only get caster change when the diff side moves up or down... the pinion angle changes to point at the CV joint (+/- a few degrees). If the non-diff end of the axle moves I get very little pinion angle change.

Needless to say my suspension geometry is unconventional/not the norm.

Squash

squash, that's the effect I used to chase down part of my death wobble problem. it wobbled different in sweeping turns to one side than it did to the other. the only thing changing was the castor angle so I dialed back the castor a squeeze and took care of it. That along with putting a round tire on the left front. I think that helped too.