i got this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46037 to make some links for susp but it only has the ability to thread the outside of pipe


where can i get something put threads on the inside of the pipe so i can screw them together?

So what are you going to thread on that's NPT?

going to be making suspension links out of sched 80....

want to be able to make links that can twist with the threads, kinda like allthread but have pipe on both sides

how do gas people connect two 20 foot sections of pipe together?

Not sure what you're asking but as a pipefitter by trade, threaded pipe has no business anywhere on a suspension system.

what does all thread use? whats wrong with threaded pipe? it would allow for like a 1/4 inch of movment so the bushings could slightly twist

basicly i want to do what allthread does but build my own

we're looking for something to tap/thread the inside of the pipe with......already have something to thread the outside of the pipe...just an answer to that question would be perfect :D

thanks

we're looking for something to tap/thread the inside of the pipe with......already have something to thread the outside of the pipe...just an answer to that question would be perfect :D

thanks
I guess you have never seen one of these???
http://www.nemicmach.com/nmcsite-III.data/Components/Taps%20&%20Dies%20Graphics/hand%20tap.gif

yeah we have and are looking at them now

the questions is where can i get those for the inside of pipe and have them 11.5 threads per inch like the above posted threaders

Not sure what you're asking but as a pipefitter by trade, threaded pipe has no business anywhere on a suspension system.
Enough said,,,pipe thread (NPT) has a taper to it so it creats a seal on water and gas (cause thats what its made for :shaking: ) so if your link does twist it'll be a loose fit when it unscrews even a little,,,have you thought about maybe using rebar :laughing:

thanks for your concern...and empty sarcasm..... I believe...the pipe will turn a 1/4 turn...and tighten back up...its going to be adjusting the whole time and it wont be so loose that it'll cause any problems.....when we've built it..trail tested it...and abused the hell out of it...we shall see.......if your right..oh well...i'll redo it...no big deal...


in the mean time..do you happen to know where we could find a threader that will do the 11.5 per inch like we orginally asked?

the thread isnt going to become so loose in just a fraction of a turn , our susp links are barely even going to twist. theres no way its going to unloosen enough to create a problem like youre stateing


you can use rebar

and did i ever ask if i wanted opinions on if this was a good idea or a feasable idea? i asked if anyone knew where i could get a male thread tapper that will work with the tapper i posted

if you think its a stupid idea, thanks thats nice, have a nice, post in somone elses thread unless you can tell me where to get what i want

the thread isnt going to become so loose in just a fraction of a turn , our susp links are barely even going to twist. theres no way its going to unloosen enough to create a problem like youre stateing


you can use rebar

Its called threaded inserts. I mean seriously, just how long do you think that two threaded pieces of pipe are going to hold together in such an app??

long enough... :flipoff2:


we dont want to use threaded inserts....we want to thread it ourselves....



dont want to turn this into a whole debate on whether its a good idea or not...just trying to find out where we can get a threader to do the job we need it to do....


thats all we ask........just a lil help would be appreciated...we can debate later..when we've finished and tested the job heh......GREAT THANKS to anyone who can direct us to the tool that will do the job...

long enough... :flipoff2:


we dont want to use threaded inserts....we want to thread it ourselves....


So how bout some specs? Whats the plan? Sh. 80 1.5" for the links, and tap the inside and use what for the joints?

So how bout some specs? Whats the plan? Sh. 80 1.5" for the links, and tap the inside and use what for the joints?



yeah..1.5" sched 80....and weld on bushings...

"Its called threaded inserts" yeah obviously but we want to make our own instead of paying like 12 bucks a pop. and after buying 8 per vehicle and having more than two vehicles its more cost effective to build our own

we want to use standard weld on rubber bushings, like these http://polyperformance.com/bushings.htm we just want twist in them instead of paying out the ass for the ones with threads then buying inserts.

how do gas people connect two 20 foot sections of pipe together?

With threaded couplings. They DO NOT thread the inside of the pipe. go to Home depot and take a look... The inside of the pipe is not a fixed diameter. There can (and will) be variations in the ID. Don't thread it. People are not saying "threaded inserts" for their health.

well where can we get threaded couplings

we can just weld the threaded couplings to the bushings and screw them onto the sched 80

Holy crap this has got to be a joke,,please tell me you guys are kidding

holy crap...maybe your the joke?


like i said before..we aren't wanting a debate thread.......to all those who would like to answer our question..thanks for your info...for all those who want to make fun of the setup..do so after you see it fail...cuz trust me..the pictures before and after the trail runs will be coming....

well where can we get threaded couplings


Right next to the pipe in any hardware store. They can be had in straight, 45*, 90*, etc... :shaking:
Seriously, These fittings (and pipe, for that matter) aren't structural pieces. The threaded section of pipe will be thin, they will break, and you will die a painful death.

If you are going to insist on doing this project, take some of the advice that people are giving you.

"Its called threaded inserts" yeah obviously but we want to make our own instead of paying like 12 bucks a pop. and after buying 8 per vehicle and having more than two vehicles its more cost effective to build our own

we want to use standard weld on rubber bushings, like these http://polyperformance.com/bushings.htm we just want twist in them instead of paying out the ass for the ones with threads then buying inserts.

Ok I'll be nice and help you out and try and save you some money. I also used 1.5" sch 80 for my rear links. What I did was take some 1" g5 nuts (for a 1" bolt) and turned them down to fit pretty tight into the 1.5" i.d. of the pipe and used 3 per link end, the inside two were plug welded in, and the outer one stuck out about 1/2 inch and was welded all the way around, then I just used some g5 1" bolts for the threaded joint end. I only made one end of the links adjustable and used some RE joints on that end. The frame end I used yj leaf spring bushings and did not make them adjustable as it isnt neccesary. Also with the wrangler bushings you can use leftover pieces of the 1.5" sch80 as the sleeve as they are a perfect fit into it. I ordered these from PORC as they had great prices and great service, just ask for the 1.5" od bushings, or you can order their whole "boulder bushing" assembly that they sell with everything. Also, that pipe more than likely will not be strong enough depending on what you're doing with it..but my links are tucked up above the bottom of the frame rail and were also built like these, bent up with rect tube bracing the bottom (this isn't mine but exactly like it)...

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/5634/threads008a.jpg

Typically NTP taps don't go by TPI, as in 11 threads per inch, they are nominal unless noted.
Here's a link to NTP taps;
McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=taps&FT_241=76349&FT_1544=72054&FT_1817=72435&FT_236=4312&FT_233=72414&session=taps;241=76349;1544=72054;1817=72435;236=4 312;233=72414)
Here's a link to iron or steel couplings;
Couplings (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=ironsteelppf&FT_138=727&FT_699=45873&session=desc=Pipe%20Fittings;ironsteelppf;138=727; 699=45873)

Question answered.
Now I can't wait to see pics in action.

Typically NTP taps don't go by TPI, as in 11 threads per inch, they are nominal unless noted...
Now I can't wait to see pics in action.
Actually NPT are in threads per inch:
1/8"NPT - 28TPI
1/4-3/8"NPT - 18TPI
1/2-3/4"NPT - 14TPI
1-2"NPT - 11½TPI
2½-4"NPT - 8TPI
They are a tapered thread (1" per foot) and of a different shape & angle than bolt threads. Nor do they match any comparable sized bolt threads in pitch.

I too, cannot wait to pics in action (and am glad I won't be there in person to witness the carnage).

Ok I'll be nice and help you out and try and save you some money. I also used 1.5" sch 80 for my rear links. What I did was take some 1" g5 nuts (for a 1" bolt) and turned them down to fit pretty tight into the 1.5" i.d. of the pipe and used 3 per link end, the inside two were plug welded in, and the outer one stuck out about 1/2 inch and was welded all the way around, then I just used some g5 1" bolts for the threaded joint end. I only made one end of the links adjustable and used some RE joints on that end. The frame end I used yj leaf spring bushings and did not make them adjustable as it isnt neccesary. Also with the wrangler bushings you can use leftover pieces of the 1.5" sch80 as the sleeve as they are a perfect fit into it. I ordered these from PORC as they had great prices and great service, just ask for the 1.5" od bushings, or you can order their whole "boulder bushing" assembly that they sell with everything. Also, that pipe more than likely will not be strong enough depending on what you're doing with it..but my links are tucked up above the bottom of the frame rail and were also built like these, bent up with rect tube bracing the bottom (this isn't mine but exactly like it)...

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/5634/threads008a.jpg



BEAUTIFUL thats exactley what else i was thinking of doing and was thinking last night at home. i think thats the route we will go , thanks for your input

Braxton......Appreciate the help! .... love the pic and the idea.....now if only the first person was so helpful this thread would have died after 3 posts.. :shaking:


oh well..pics will be coming!


thanks again! :D

thanks for your concern...and empty sarcasm..... I believe...the pipe will turn a 1/4 turn...and tighten back up...its going to be adjusting the whole time and it wont be so loose that it'll cause any problems.....when we've built it..trail tested it...and abused the hell out of it...we shall see.......if your right..oh well...i'll redo it...no big deal...


in the mean time..do you happen to know where we could find a threader that will do the 11.5 per inch like we orginally asked?


www.fastenal.com There are a ton of stores in cali. One of many companies that sell em.

that threaded pipe idea is great, if you're building a sprinkler system.

PLEASE- post picks when you are done so I can understand your madness

harbor freight also sells a tap set
harborfreight.com and search tap
its a 6 piece for 39.99

One reads what size one is using off the side of the "DIE" (the term for the widget one uses to thread the external surface of the pipe) and bops down to the local plumbing supply outfit and asks for that size "TAP" (the term for the widget used to thread internally Old Scout posted), the threads will be the same then.

I might also get a copy of Machinerys Handbook and look up pipe thread geometry fer grins, they are tapered and one may not be able to get 1/4" of adjustment out of it without it being a real loose/sloppy arrangement...

[ON EDIT]

Most of what I've said is redundant. Thats what I get fer not reading all the posts before posting "again" :shaking:

D.