Did the search thing, didn't help :flipoff2: . Anyone know if a D300 will bolt up to a AW4 (XJ tranny)? Adapter needed?

will the TF 727 (that bolts up to my 258/D300) bolt up to the 4.0?

use the 727 its better.\
it will bolt up, BUT youll have to either curt a hole for the CPS or buy the kit to move it to the front of the engine

i'm pretty sure the 300 will bolt up to a AW4 because a 231 will and a 231 will bolt up to a TF999 and i'm useing a TF999 and 300 sooo that should work and i say the 727 is better because its not all computer controlled like the aw4 and its alot stronger. and ozark is right on the CPS thing

use the 727 its better.\

so why is it better?

Ok, with a little research in other areas here is what I got:
Ozark is right, the TF727 will bolt to the 4.0 but will require the CPS relocator ($400) :eek:
The AW4 will bolt up to the D300 but requires a $204 adaptor from advance.
I agree the AW4 being electronic could be a drawback, but they are a very durable tranny, not sure the TF 727 is so much better that it's worth the $400 CPS relocator. Also the AW4 is 4 speed, the TF727 is 3 speed. This thing will have to drive to the trail (2-6 hrs) until I can afford a trailer/tow rig.

The 300 will bolt to the aw4 if it is a mid 91 or newer since they are 23 spline and the older ones are 21. But you need a 7/8ths spacer between the two or the input housing of the 300 will bottom out the output seal of the aw4. If you need a spacer a can can sell you one that also acts as clocking ring for 160. The one from A/A is just a spacer. If you need any more info on the aw4 just ask.

Hey Blitzer, think you can post a pic of that spacer/clocking ring:question:

Easy

Blitzed, since my AW4 is a 90, I wont be able to hook it up to the D300?

If you do not hacve a 23 spline out put already you can just switch it to one.

Also, you may or may not need to redrill some holes if you want to re-clock it.

you may also have to cut the output shaft a little, e-mail or PM me and I will twell you what the directions I have at home say.

http://www.downeastoffroad.com/mainpage.htm

here is some 300 info for you.

you can pay a shop about $450 to rebuild your t727

a KIT for an AW4 is most likely more than that.

the 727 will hold upto just about anything you can do, huge tires/HEMI V8 ( factory trans behind the famous Hemi cars)

the AW$ is very durable in a stock application, when you ad large tires, and more power it becomes weaker.

Dont get me wrong I like the AW4, I had one go 178K miles with NO probelms in a stock XJ

BUt its not nearly as strong as the TF727

there are plenty of shift kits, and manual valve bodys for the 727 also, nada for teh AW4 that Im aware of.

Ozark, the TF727 is freshly rebuilt (no miles on it).

Here is the deal, got parts from CJ project (258 in middle of adding new crank kit and timing set,TF727, D300) and A running XJ (4.0 rebuilt a year ago, AW4 with over 200,000 miles, NP231 with SYE).

Gonna make one trail rig (gotta drive to trail). Plan to use the XJ as a base with waggy or Ford axles.

I'm just trying to decide the best (affordable) setup with what I got.

I want to use the 4.0 (EFI), to add the TF727 I'd need the CPS relocation ($400:eek: ) then I could bolt up the D300. Or Use 4.0 with AW4 and NP231 (no mods needed) or 4.0 with AW4 and D300 (need spacer $160).

Plan to run 35-36" meats. Front suspension will most likely be leafs.

Thanks so far for all the input.

Ive heard you can cut a hole ion teh bellhousing and bolt the cirrent CPS into a TF727

the only hard part would be the actual location of where to cut.

this would be a really cheap option you might look into.

other wise that $400 saved will go 1/3 of the way towards rebuilding that aw4!

Originally posted by DUG
If you do not hacve a 23 spline out put already you can just switch it to one.

Also, you may or may not need to redrill some holes if you want to re-clock it.

you may also have to cut the output shaft a little, e-mail or PM me and I will twell you what the directions I have at home say.

You dont nee to re-drill if you use the clocking ring this way the ring acts as the spacer needed for the aw-4. As for cutting the output???? the only tranny you have to grind the output for is the nv3500. If you grind a aw-4 or ax-15 you are lossing spline engagment. :smokin:

Im not sure how to post a pic? i will try?

Originally posted by Blitzed


You dont nee to re-drill if you use the clocking ring this way the ring acts as the spacer needed for the aw-4. As for cutting the output???? the only tranny you have to grind the output for is the nv3500. If you grind a aw-4 or ax-15 you are lossing spline engagment. :smokin:

Im not sure how to post a pic? i will try?

True, but.....if you cut down the input bearing housing and use a sealed bearing you don't need a clocking ring and you can just cut the shaft, like the flip kit does but just put it on right side up. If you need it JnJ I can give you the P/N for the bearing and the instructions for cutting the D300 to fit.

Thanks guys, still in the info gathering process.

Is that the bearing kit from down east? If so can you post a pic or send me one? I heard about them but have yet to see it. also by going that way do you still have that nasty 4 inches hangin down?

The bearing thing is not a kit but I got the P/N for the sealled bearing that they use in the flip kit. If you cut the input housing down like they do and used the sealed bearing you could bolt it up in place of a 23 spline 231 with right side drop if you where into that kind of thing.

My flip kit tucks up pretty good but I have it stuck to the back of a SM465 with a AA adapter that was origionally for a NP207 that I converted to accept a 23 spline 231 and redrilled to twist the case up.

Origionally I redrilled the adapther to clock my 231 up. When I installed the fliped D300 I had to slot the holes at the top instead of just drill 2 new ones.

Long story short (to late) mine sits pretty flat....shoot me a PM or a e-mail and I will try and find a pick for you.

Emailed ya Dug.

I know what your saying but why would you spend 200, then have to modify the 300. once you cut the input housing it can only be used on aw-4, ax-15...what if down the road you swap tranny? Why when you can spend 160 on a bolt on ring that would do the same thing plus let you clock it, and you can re-use/sell 300 if you want?

200 bucks? It would cost about 10 bucks for the sealed bearing. If you have the case it's dirt cheap.

opps...i seem to remeber a posting before and some one said 200 for the sealed bearing kit from down east...but you mean DIY sealed bearing....i get it now.

I think that $10 bearing is closer to $50.
SKF #6209-2RSJEM

If I want to put a Dana 300 behind a 23 spline 2 wheel drive AW4, would I just need to build a spacer ring?

I have a new/un used ring for sale actually. It is 7/8" thick, cold rolled steel, designed in cad, and machined on a CNC milling machine. I have an identical one for my AX15-D300 in my YJ and it is a very nice product. I feel it is one of the better clocking rings out there because it isn't the 3/8" thick kind with a 1/2" spacer, and it isn't aluminum. It has four clocking positions and the only thing you should need to put it on is the hardware (6 studs, 6 bolts, cheap...). PM me if you are interested, just thought I would help you out seeing that you are in need of one. I only want $100 plus shipping.

-Dave

Originally posted by squirriljeep
If I want to put a Dana 300 behind a 23 spline 2 wheel drive AW4, would I just need to build a spacer ring?


It could be done, however...the 2WD AW4 's output shaft is about 7" longer. That'd make the spacer close to 8". Depending on wheelbase this could cause a problem.

If you do NOT use a spacer, between the tranny and Xcase, your Xcase WILL interfere with the Exhaust hanger bracket that goes ontop of your tranny mount. only way to counter this is to add the spacer, or toss the exhaust hanger bracket away. I couldnt figure out an appropriate way to trim the bracket so it will not interfere.


I just went ahead and got the clocking ring/spacer. along with the flipkit