Hey guys I am new to the samurai wheeling stuff. I recently baught a Sammy that is already semi built up, I have ran into a problem though. It has the stock carb on it and it seems like whenever it is real cold or raining it will start to chug out like when I step on the gas it will only go to like 2000 rpms and continues to get worse untill I pull over and shut it off. I have to turn it over a couple of times before it works fine. Is it because I dont have that 8 dollar breather thingy that they put out for the sami or is it that my floats on the carb are sticking? I am not that good of a mechanic so any suggestions will help me out. Thanks guys.

P.S. Does anybody live in WA state like around the Olympia area?

do you have the heat exchanger on it that runs from the exhast manifold to the air cleaner? if it doesnt and its cold out your carb is probably iceing up. its happened to me. also check your vacum hoses.
good luck

Rick D

look at this, 2 newbies
:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: welcome to th board newbies:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

and try spraying some carb cleaner into your carb, if its your choke sticking then the cleaner should help it a bit....... thats all i can think of....

screw that stock carb thing, the whole computer, that log that you call an exhaust manifold, all them damn wires and frustration and get the weber...you won't regret it.
hidey ho, newbies:flipoff2:

-justin

M.F.I.

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MECHANICAL FUEL INJECTION
(Diesel, newbies) :flipoff2:

hay Adam


i live in olympia and have like 7 sammis so if you need any help email me moto261@yahoo.com or you can just call me at 360-791-6169 its my cell and i have it on most of the time so give me a call
dan:massey:

Ok thanks man I appreciate it. Have you heard of the samurai club in Olympia? Deezknutz Offroad? Just wonderin because one of the guys name is Dan not sure if that is you or not?

yep that would be me give me a call and see what i can do

dan:massey:

I got this from Suzuki John. I played with my carb for a month when I bought my Zuk and had no luck. This fixed it up and now I have no trouble at all. I do not run the pre-heat duct running from the manifold to the carb and have had no trouble in over a year down to 10 degrees F. I have absoloutely no trouble off-camber, nose up or down situations, but have yet to try upside down. Give it a try, It hooked mine up:

"The most common problem with Sammis is the choke setting...other things like timing can affect it but i'm sure you've already checked all of that... anyway what you do now is get a long flat head screwdriver and lay it on top of the same mount that your accelerator cable runs through before it gets to that large cam on the bottom of the carb that we talked about before...it is the same bracket or mount that the two 12 mm nuts are found that hold the cable adjustment... anyway that bracket is going to bend down a bit after you use it for the leverage you'll need to do the adjustment on this mark you need to make but don't worry about the bending because you can just bend it back up into place after you are done....you'll see what i mean after you do the adjustment...anyway, lay the handle of the flat head on the top of the bracket and then with the flat head of the screwdriver catch the end of the small cam that is pointed your way and push down on the handle of the screwdriver which will cause the bottom lobe of that cam to go up!!!!...so far so good???...now take a small nail or drill bit that will fit snugly into the hole that is in that same cam and you'll see that there is also a hole in the bracket above this small cam that when the lobe is pushed up flush with you can run the drill bit or nail all the way through both and whalah!!! The cam will stay in place now without your having to hold the screwdriver any more!!!...now what you need to do is use that same long flathead to slowly put pressure on the "l" or "c" shaped finger on the other end of this same small cam that we have been dealing with all this time... if you take a look at it you'll see how it is actuated by the thermocouple that comes down from the other housing above it...that thermocouple is actuated by water temperature from the two hoses that run into that same housing...anyway in order to get the idle down, you need to use the screwdriver tip to push that finger up.... do this process slowly and as you bend it a little at a time you'll see that the mark on the small cam will eventually line up with the rod we talked about before... that is where you need for it to be to operate correctly...remember that you need to bend a little...i'd say not more than 1/16th of an inch at a time; then remove the drill bit and see where you are and then repeat these small adjustments until the marks come into alignment...after that straighten the bracket back up that you bent and start your engine!!! You should be much happier"