Got the AA SYE coming. Other than buying a new driveshaft what can be used to fabricate one? Can an XJ front driveshaft be shortened and balanced to work for a savings of $200? It will be going on my YJ with 4"-5" lift. Also, I'm thinking about fabricating a flat skid. Is there any way to accomodate the skid with this driveshaft so that I don't haft worry about getting a new one made when that happens? Thanks:flipoff2:

Make the skid plate so that it and the drive shaft never are forced to occupy the same space.

i'm in the exact same situation!
i decided to go with a custom shaft cause after a bunch of research, i found that the front XJ shafts are not made as beefy as the rear ones, and would not be recomended as a rear shaft,
i'm holding off with the shaft and the JB SYE install till i finish my belly up and can give them propper measurements.
or else i'll just install the SYE and when i measure it up i'll give them a length that is .5" longer cause i anticipate doing a belly up soon.

i found out that for 3" lift the shaft is lengthened about 1" and a 1.5" lift....shaft needs to be about .5" longer, so i doubt that a belly up is gonna give me more then 1.5" more clearance so i need to ask for a shaft that is .5" longer then the measurement with the stock skid and SYE.

HTH
Sharp.:beer:

Use a front driveshaft from a ford or chevy. They come with a CV and are plenty long to cut down. The problem with those is they arn't super stong so you really need a track bar so they don't bend due to axle wrap. I have done quite a few drivelines and they are easy to do if you have a lathe but if not then I say buy one.

Yea, just find a XJ front shaft and cut it down. It has the 1310 cv on it. I found one and just cut it down my self. I also have a chevy or ford or somethin' front shaft, but the cv is a 1330 or somethin' funny like that. Same cap size but larger cross section. What I'm trying to get at is too measure before you buy so you know it will fit.

Kevo

i have made several drive shafts with out a lathe. its not hard just cut the drive shave where the weld is on the long side down by the splines and reweld it. it is a tight fit and if you set DS on a flat surface and make 100% it is not outa wack weld the puppy up! mine has yet to brake or wobble...much. i can live with a little vibes. i will just use the extra 200 bucks un my pocket to pad my a$$...:beer:

Sharp, I don't know what research you did, but you're wrong.

I run an XJ front shaft from an 80's Cherokee as a rear driveshaft and have one for a spare.

The tube that this shaft has is .120 wall. That is heavy duty.

:idea: Why don't you spend the $10 at a junkyard for the shaft, take it to a driveshaft shop, cut it in half and ask them if they think it'll be strong enough. Then come back and act like you know what you are talking about.

Until then try to limit your posting to sh-t that you have FIRST HAND knowledge of.

Recurve- My buddies and I all run these cherokee shafts, they can also be found in Wagoneers. We all have 35+" tires and experience no problems. $10 for a shaft plus $40 for a shorten and balance, $40 bucks is a lot cheaper than $250. Go for it.

ya what he said. if your are breaking thoes DS then go with lower gears...IMO i would never spend that kind of money on a "custom" DS. you could make 2 and have a spair cheaper than one "custom" driveshaft that they proly get from a junckyard anyhow :beer:

Originally posted by bigdude
Sharp, I don't know what research you did, but you're wrong.

I run an XJ front shaft from an 80's Cherokee as a rear driveshaft and have one for a spare.

The tube that this shaft has is .120 wall. That is heavy duty.

:idea: Why don't you spend the $10 at a junkyard for the shaft, take it to a driveshaft shop, cut it in half and ask them if they think it'll be strong enough. Then come back and act like you know what you are talking about.

Until then try to limit your posting to sh-t that you have FIRST HAND knowledge of.

Recurve- My buddies and I all run these cherokee shafts, they can also be found in Wagoneers. We all have 35+" tires and experience no problems. $10 for a shaft plus $40 for a shorten and balance, $40 bucks is a lot cheaper than $250. Go for it.

I LOVE IT WHEN NEWBIES FIGHT! HEHEHE.

.12 wall is heavy duty? Since you're using front shafts off of grocery getters as your rear, I can tell you really wheel hard :rolleyes:. Rock the mall dude! :flipoff2:

Just smack'n ya newbie for jump'n down on Sharp. He said nothing to justify your "First hand" comment. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by LOPPY


I LOVE IT WHEN NEWBIES FIGHT! HEHEHE.

.12 wall is heavy duty? Since you're using front shafts off of grocery getters as your rear, I can tell you really wheel hard :rolleyes:. Rock the mall dude! :flipoff2:

Just smack'n ya newbie for jump'n down on Sharp. He said nothing to justify your "First hand" comment. :flipoff2:

you dont have to have a "howitezr" proof drive shaft if'n he has low gears. keep your shaft outa the weeds and you will be fine. you dont have to break DS to be hard core, that just means you F---ed up. hehehe:beer: :beer: :flipoff2:

I only gave him a little because I figured he could take it.

Loppy you're right, .120 wall is plenty tough for speedbumps at the mall, but my guess is you know that FIRST HAND and that's why you posted it.

:flipoff2: :D

good luck:D

Originally posted by Chrisjeep7


you dont have to have a "howitezr" proof drive shaft if'n he has low gears. keep your shaft outa the weeds and you will be fine. you dont have to break DS to be hard core, that just means you F---ed up. hehehe:beer: :beer: :flipoff2:

Oh yeah! Well... well.... your momma wears combat boots! :flipoff2:

I love my howitezr proof drive shafts! hehehe. You know there's no such thing. Wheel hard, parts go :nuke: , that's life and the way it is. I dont understand your "low gears" comment. Having low gears allows you to move slower over obsticles thus reducing wheel speed thus reducing "insta traction" (that's what I call it) where a jolt of torque could be hammered onto your shaft. But I dont see that as a huge problem. When driveshafts go strictly due to torque, it's the ujoint that goes. If you ever see a pretzeled shaft, I'd bet ya $100 you'd find a diviot in it somewhere where a rock started the process.

Hey, if the grocery getter shafts work for ya, more power to ya. I'll stick with Jesse's shafts though, thank you. :D

Just mess'n with you goons. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by bigdude
I only gave him a little because I figured he could take it.

Loppy you're right, .120 wall is plenty tough for speedbumps at the mall, but my guess is you know that FIRST HAND and that's why you posted it.

:flipoff2: :D

Got me there! :rolleyes:

I really hate those bump stops in the parking stalls. Those things are tough! :eek:

You ought to come out here to Nor Cal man. We have some of the best mall wheel'n anywhere!!

:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by onetoncv
good luck:D

Ditto

Jesse, have you come out with your new mall rig shafts yet? I really want the one's with neon lights on em. That'd be sweeet! They'd look killer shining through my spoke wheels! :D

Originally posted by LOPPY


Oh yeah! Well... well.... your momma wears combat boots! :flipoff2:

I love my howitezr proof drive shafts! hehehe. You know there's no such thing. Wheel hard, parts go :nuke: , that's life and the way it is. I dont understand your "low gears" comment. Having low gears allows you to move slower over obsticles thus reducing wheel speed thus reducing "insta traction" (that's what I call it) where a jolt of torque could be hammered onto your shaft. But I dont see that as a huge problem. When driveshafts go strictly due to torque, it's the ujoint that goes. If you ever see a pretzeled shaft, I'd bet ya $100 you'd find a diviot in it somewhere where a rock started the process.

Hey, if the grocery getter shafts work for ya, more power to ya. I'll stick with Jesse's shafts though, thank you. :D

Just mess'n with you goons. :flipoff2:

DUDE it is all physics! The torque on the drive shaft is reduced with lower gears that why u use lower gears...more torque and slower go. is it easier to spin the axle flange or the yolk? (When the tires are off)
:beer:

I understand what you're trying to say, it's just how you're saying it is wrong. Simply gearing down does not automatically reduce torque on your driveline. In fact, gearing down can actually increase the torque on certain components of the driveline system. You have to keep in mind, it's like leverage. Lower gearing is like going from a 1' prybar to a 2' prybar.

For instance. In sand, lower gearing reducing wheel spin would indeed lower the torque applied to the driveline. However only because wheel spin/final drive torque is reduced. Resistance on the system is reduced. It's not all about gearing down, traction, vehicle weight, angle all play into it.

Say your wheels are bolted to the ground. No spin. With engine revved to 4000 and dump the clutch. Do you think having a 4:1 ratio gearbox would save the shaft where a standard 2.32:1 would shread it. No. The lower geared box would stand a much better chance of twisting the shaft than the higher box would.

Ok. enough knit picking. I'm going wheel'n this weekend so I'm fired up. It's :beer: time! I'll let you know how my shafts hold up. :flipoff2: :D

Originally posted by Sharp
i found out that for 3" lift the shaft is lengthened about 1" and a 1.5" lift....shaft needs to be about .5" longer, so i doubt that a belly up is gonna give me more then 1.5" more clearance so i need to ask for a shaft that is .5" longer then the measurement with the stock skid and SYE.

HTH
Sharp.:beer:

Hummm we just did a springover 5 1/2" on a YJ and the Slip in the rear Driveshaft only moved 1/4"

I gotta say, I am entertained at the very least with this post. I feel sorry for the guy that posted it, not like he's getting any really good advice from anyone.

As far as the two newbies, you both need to chill the fawk out! The dude was asking a question, no need to jump all over his ass. I think you may have some type of deep seated issues and should seek therapy.

I also have to agree with Loppy, I believe more torque is applied with lower gears than higher. Let's face it, we all go lower so we can go slower and the torque is multiplied by lower gears. If that's not enough, when you lower the gears you raise RPM which plops you right in the middle of the torque curve. Whatever, I'm not getting into a Physics discussion here. (maybe ER will :D)

.120" wall is plenty thick enough for a shaft. I for one would rather twist a driveshaft than break an axle or destroy a R/P.

As for the original question, you plopped down some chinga for the SYE kit, why go cheap now?? I wouldn't mind doing what you're proposing for a spare, but I would rather spend a little on my "primary" shaft from the get go. Just my $.02.

As for "bigdude" - Whatever dude, you're from Florida, call me when you get your shipment of rocks from the west coast. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by Putzboy
I gotta say, I am entertained at the very least with this post. I feel sorry for the guy that posted it, not like he's getting any really good advice from anyone.

I also have to agree with Loppy, I believe more torque is applied with lower gears than higher. Let's face it, we all go lower so we can go slower and the torque is multiplied by lower gears. If that's not enough, when you lower the gears you raise RPM which plops you right in the middle of the torque curve. Whatever, I'm not getting into a Physics discussion here. (maybe ER will :D)

.120" wall is plenty thick enough for a shaft. I for one would rather twist a driveshaft than break an axle or destroy a R/P.

As for the original question, you plopped down some chinga for the SYE kit, why go cheap now?? I wouldn't mind doing what you're proposing for a spare, but I would rather spend a little on my "primary" shaft from the get go. Just my $.02.

HAHAHA i dont want to get in the Physics discussion either i will loose. hell i only took it in high school i was basing the above statement on half drunk highs cool Physics.... anyhow i was just telling him from my "first hand...*snicker*" experience lower gears will not twist a shaft and easily as high gears. a lead foot will break anything. Just keep your shaft outa the dirt and you will be fine. :beer:

Originally posted by Putzboy

As for the original question, you plopped down some chinga for the SYE kit, why go cheap now?? I wouldn't mind doing what you're proposing for a spare, but I would rather spend a little on my "primary" shaft from the get go. Just my $.02.

Got the AA SYE for $240 shipped. If not for the great pricing then I'd have opted for the RE hack and tap. Just seems like overkill to put a $250+ ds on my POS when I can have 5 made for that price, of course I'll only make 2. I have a 4 banger with 33's and won't go any bigger and by my own admission the rig won't be wheeled hard enough to warrant the high dollar shaft. (It's just not capable enough yet) Now, this summer you guys might say "I told you so" 'cause if something happens I'll be happy to post here to educate others. Thanks for the help and/or entertainment. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by LOPPY


Ditto

Jesse, have you come out with your new mall rig shafts yet? I really want the one's with neon lights on em. That'd be sweeet! They'd look killer shining through my spoke wheels! :D

I heard that he's actually changing his company's name to No-Angle Drivelines:rolleyes::flipoff2:

and like he said... Good luck!!!

its actaully glitter made drivelines - no really just be careful and weld it good huh!the mall cruzer lines are on hold hehe:zzz:

Just becuase someone lists where they are at as FL doesn't mean that is where they are from. Come on you should know that.

I'm originally fron Indiana and lived 30 minutes from the Attica Badlands since it opened. I just moved to FL 6 months ago. Rocks may not be as plentiful in Indiana as Nor Cal., but the Badlands has some pretty tough wheeling. I think anyone who's been there will back me up on that.

My junk is trailered now, so runs to Tellico are common, but I guess there aren't any rocks there either:flipoff2:

Here's some more info you'll like. I'm an engineer for a mining company, we dig in the ground:eek: . And yes when you get down to abou 80 ft in FL there are rocks (actually hard-pan which is a layer of limestone), and we do remove them. Then we pile them in one area. These are big, the size of Jeeps and trucks, and my company lets me ride them (footbal field sized piles). I guess I don't need that shipment after all, huh.

I was just on here and giving out a little attitude like everybody else, not mad at all so I don't think I need to chill out. I also gave recurve an answer to his question. I like posting on this board because normally people don't get worked up, they just kid around with :flipoff2: , and :rolleyes: . I guess you took offense to my joking.

Loppy- when I get more than a weeks vacation and can make the drive out there, I hope you'll show me some of that mall wheelin', but hopefully you can take me on some trails too:beer: :beer:

Originally posted by bigdude

Loppy- when I get more than a weeks vacation and can make the drive out there, I hope you'll show me some of that mall wheelin', but hopefully you can take me on some trails too:beer: :beer:

LMAO! I'm ready for ya! We'll hit Sunrise Mall, Arden Fair Mall and the new one in Roseville. I heard they have speed bumps! :eek:

Then mabe we'll go hit some lame stuff like the Rubicon and Fordyce :D . Seriously, if you're ever out this way (open to all POR folks) give me a shout. Happy to take ya wheel'n! :beer: :beer:

Oh, and never mind Putzboy. It was a bad day. He found his tampon behind his ear and could'nt find his pen. :flipoff2:

Oh, and never mind Putzboy. It was a bad day. He found his tampon behind his ear and could'nt find his pen.

Bawahahahahaha, that's a good one.

For me planning a trip out there is a definite. As soon as my company realizes new employess deserve 4 weeks vacation per year I'm there. And you can bet your ass I want POR guys showing me the trails:beer: :smokin: :skull:

BWAHAHAHahahahahhahhaa..........

Yea, that was funny, NOT!!!

That's why I love this board sometimes, we can sure get into a pissin contest and start up the East Coast vs. West Coast shit. Hehehehehe, kinda funny.

As Lopped off dick said, anytime you're out here, give a shout, we'll wheel, drink :beer: and talk shit, you'll have a great time!!!

So, a mining engineer eh?? Is that anything like a Sanitation Engineer?? :D :flipoff2:

I'm just a chemical engineer who works for a mining company, couldn't get into the sanitation engineer program like you:flipoff2:

No east coast vs. west coast stuff here, any wheeling is good wheeling. But I'll take a camera with the next time I run my companies property and post some pics, you'll be surprised.

And when I can get out there I'll take all the mall wheelin' you guys can dish out :barf: I'll be sure to bring spares and :beer: 's

going back to the origional question......I see no reason to fab a shaft.

I completely agree that I would use a custom shaft for a primary and a junkyard for a backup.

where do you get you're figure of $250 from? I had a local shop here in Denver build me one for $135, and man it is HUGE. I'm talking about a fully balanced shaft that is bigger around than a factory 3/4 ton fullsize (and this is for my MJ)

you can find a better price than $250, just shop around. and you really can't beat High Angle's customer service....especially for fellow POR'ers

http://home.earthlink.net/~klawlernc/dcp00840.jpg
Well it ain't pretty. Got it for a YJ rear brakeline and $10 then another $50 to shorten. It was strong enough for the front of an XJ at nearly 40" and shortening it should strenghen it. Looking for another to use as a trail spare. Still cheaper than $250.

Sorry to bring this up again but am I smokin' crack to think it will hold up? I've got a 4cyl and 33's and 4.88's. Gimme your unbiased opinion.

If I get a new shaft it will be fabricated by the guy that shortened this one and he's as good as anyone that sells them on the net.

$10 says that thing goes :nuke: the first time you try to drive it.
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cause ya gots no fawkin springs:flipoff2: