I put a 4 inch lift on a 76 international scout traveler. The lift put the diff at too steep of an anle and when we put the drive line in the transfer case started binding up. So, we bought wedges to angle the diff up, but now the tie rod is rubbing on the leef springs. I know that other people have put 4 inch lifts on before, so I'm wondering if anybody else has had this same problem. And if there is anywhere I can get a different steering linkage?

here we go, its been a while sice this happened.......

search for "cut and turn"

goodluck.

what brand of lift is it, a 4" lift alone shouldnt cause any binding

I put a 4 inch lift on a 76 international scout traveler. The lift put the diff at too steep of an anle and when we put the drive line in the transfer case started binding up. So, we bought wedges to angle the diff up, but now the tie rod is rubbing on the leef springs. I know that other people have put 4 inch lifts on before, so I'm wondering if anybody else has had this same problem. And if there is anywhere I can get a different steering linkage?


nope you're screwed...just give up and go buy a jeep.

So, we bought wedges to angle the diff up, Not a good thing! You just changed your castor from 0 (not real good) to minus 3 or 4. It's going to drive real bad. :eek:

A four inch lift shouldn't cause this problem? :mad3:

Even with two inch over shackles?

If it's close you can take out the drive-line and do some grinding around the yoke for some additional clearance. Check at full droop.

Proper solution would be the cut and turn, then you need a CV joint front drive-line. But you would have good castor if done correctly. With that your truck will drive a bunch better as well.

Not a good thing! You just changed your castor from 0 (not real good) to minus 3 or 4. It's going to drive real bad. :eek:

A four inch lift shouldn't cause this problem? :mad3:

Even with two inch over shackles?

If it's close you can take out the drive-line and do some grinding around the yoke for some additional clearance. Check at full droop.

Proper solution would be the cut and turn, then you need a CV joint front drive-line. But you would have good castor if done correctly. With that your truck will drive a bunch better as well.

Welcome to the dark side, as you have just arrived you haven't had enough time to understand just what a complete idiot 1006 is

Shackle reversel can help.

I went SOA and did not bind - did not cut and turn. I stuck with the 0 deg. I will go full axles in the future.

Are the springs in correctly? backwards? I've never used lift springs, always went spring over. More work in the end but WAY better performance, ride, etc...

Welcome to the dark side, as you have just arrived you haven't had enough time to understand just what a complete idiot 1006 is

And to think I was just about to remove him from my ignore list..

Like others said, look for other issues as a "standard" 4" Lift kit shouldn't cause front shaft binding issues.

What degree shims did you use?? Simplest solution is to remove the shims and substitute smaller ones. Find the happy medium between caster, drive-shaft angle and TR clearance.

Also, like other have said, you started with 0º caster, then tilted the pinion up, now you have positive caster... i.e. bad caster and handling will be seriously effected.


Is this your truck or a buddies??
There are binder folks in your neck of the woods that can help...

...you started with 0º caster, then tilted the pinion up, now you have positive caster... i.e. bad caster and handling will be seriously effected...

Hey Rusty,
If he started with 0° caster and shimmed to rotate pinion up, that would give him negative caster, not positive. Positive caster - good. Negative caster - bad.

This is my rig, anyone who'd be willing to help that's in my area would be more than welcome. I also heard that there is a place that does some custom drive line stuff out of Everett, so I think that I will be looking into that. I don't know.

Hey Rusty,
If he started with 0° caster and shimmed to rotate pinion up, that would give him negative caster, not positive. Positive caster - good. Negative caster - bad.
Ya, Ya.. I always get it backwards.... hence I always quantify it by (bad) or (good) :D





you damn engineers... :flipoff2:

Spit Wad, come down to the NW Binders Club Meeting tonight in Redmond, (www.nwbinders.net) Im sure we can find a solution. I'm sure there are drive0line shops in Everett (they are all over), the place I use is in Seattle..

Is this an SOA or SUA? :confused: