Trailing arm re-work

[marty]

I have a set of the SG HD trailing arms that I purchased for my Disco to replace the stock set-up. I want to re-fab these to conform to a 2-1/2" lift I have installed since buying these. The problem I'm having is the bushings at the frame, they keep tearing 'cause of the added angle.

I need to know how much of a offset or bend I have to put in the arms and also how much longer that stock do they have to be to compensate for the added lift.

Maybe someone has a set they could measure for me?

Marty

[road1will]

hey marty. sell them and buy a set of the rovertym ones. you'll be much happier :D

[evilfij]

Marty,

It depends on how you do them but ideally you want them level at the "ear" mount for maximum flex and minimal bind.

So with a 2.5" lift you need to bend them to equal a 2.5" rise (where you place the bend effects the angle). The you need to either sleeve them or weld reinforcing plates on the bottom.

Now the problem is that when you put in a bend you lose some length and this can throw your drive shaft angles out. how much do you want to add in length? Depends on a) what DS angle you want b) where and how much you bend.

So the bottom line is find someone with a set of RWs or SGs and copy the bend or just shell out the 150 for RWs or 225 for rovertym trailing arms :)

One last option is to just use poly trailing arm bushes. I have reds with a 3in lift and have not had a problem.

Ron

[roverhybrids]

Are the SG trailing arms bent? Or are they straight like the stock ones? Sounds like they are straight.
Usually the aftermarket links are bent to help relieve the binding at the frame bushing. I can't tell you the degree to bend them but you could just "eyeball" it then make the opposite side the same.
The links are usually shortened to rotate the pinion angle up for use with a double cardon drive shaft. I don't know if this is necessary for a disco with the amount of lift you have but for D90's this is common practice. I believe that the amount shortened is 1/2 inch.

[evilfij]

Marty,

Unless you are running a DC rear DS (I am 99% sure you are not) you want them longer. This corrects the pinion angle and keeps the tires away from the doors (a moot point for you soon :))Rovertym uses shims to allow you to change the length to mess with the pinion angle, I have seen them up to an inch longer.

Ron

[road1will]

ron, why do you run the reds? the reds flex like shiat! i used to have all reds on the RR, but i had sooooooooo little rear flex with my (stock) trailing arms. i switched over to the blue polys and wow! what a difference. no difference in ride AFAICT either. they conform so much better than the reds, i cant tell you enough. even if you had one of each in your hand, the reds are hard as a rock while the blues are relatively pliable as far as bushings go.

GO BLUE!!!!

:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

[evilfij]

Yes reds do suck but they came with the truck.

Personally I like rubber :) but when the rubber fails you can go to poly.

Ron

[Old Scout]

Why counldn't you take some 6061 plate stock and make a spacer that goes in between the mount and the poly bushing :question: The bushing just bolts on and 1/2" 6061 is cheap and easy to work with.

[RockRover]

I'm going to copy this design for my rear link configuration....I think with the Rover dimensions this would be perfect.

Nice links (http://www.pirate4x4.com/trailreports/arca_lascruces2001/saturday/Image003.jpg)

[marty]

Originally posted by MeenGreen63
hey marty. sell them and buy a set of the rovertym ones. you'll be much happier :D

Thanks for the input, I think I'll follow Wheeler's advice and just call John at RTE, it'll probably be cheaper in the end :)

Marty

[merv]

Good call to go for the Rovertym ones. I did and am impressed.

I was using blue poly's on the original arms with a 2" lift and drop out cones and the poly's split on me. Keep checking 'em!

Merv.