Well we were bullsh!ting in the garage the other night and came up with a "Different" traction bar idea.

Basically resembles a ford radius arm with only one link at the axle end. I mounted a ford radius arm bushing at the end of the bar, and made a mount on the crossmember just behind the transfer case. Then a single bar down to the axle with a TJ control arm bushing mounting it to the bracket I made for the axle (Which is gusseted as well) Are we thinking correctly in that this will not limit travel but will stop the axle hop?? I am nearly complete with it, and plan on really testing it this weekend but I wanted to know what everyone else thought of it as well.

Your ideas, questions, comments or complaints are welcome!

I still think the axle can twist about the TJ control arm bushing. If you don't have 2 mounts on the axle, it can rotate. Maybe you left something out of your description.

Originally posted by Eric
I still think the axle can twist about the TJ control arm bushing. If you don't have 2 mounts on the axle, it can rotate. Maybe you left something out of your description.

Well for the axle to rotate, the top would rotate back, and the bottom would rotate forward. I thought by limiting the axle from rotating back on the top, that would stop the bottom from rotating at the same time. Right?? :confused:

If I'm viewing your image and your description correctly, I think you may have a potential flaw.

The axle mount is "solid" in that it can rotate on it's axis because of the bolt thru the bushing, but allows no side-to-side movement.

The crossmember mount is the concern. If I'm viewing correctly, the bushing/arm is designed so that the arm could push forward through the bushing, but is limited from pushing backwards. In this way, when the pinion rotates up and the bar wants to move backwards, the nut/washer contacts the bushing and prevents the rotation.

On compression, the arm is able to slide forward thru the Ford bushing and eliminate any bind there.'

However, on extension, will the nut/washer contact the bushing prior to full droop, and therefore try and force the pinion to rotate down??

This is why the y-link systems (like mine) use a verticle shackle at the frame mount location...to allow for front to back movement at that point. (Granted, there are other issues with this as well....)

I feel single point mounting to the diff seldomly works, and if it does, not for long. I essence you are using a link and the front .5 of the leafspring for the other link. My experience tells me the front of the spring will get trashed and you'll wrap right around (pivot on) the traction bar.:confused:

Originally posted by Aggro
I feel single point mounting to the diff seldomly works, and if it does, not for long. I essence you are using a link and the front .5 of the leafspring for the other link. My experience tells me the front of the spring will get trashed and you'll wrap right around (pivot on) the traction bar.:confused:

That's exactly what I was thinking too. It will be easy enough to add another link on the bottom I think I may just do that before I trash anything else. :D:D

And if worse comes to worse, turning the front mount into a shackle mount facing up would be a piece of cake (I made all of this so I could change it to Woodys method if this didn't work out.) Just experiementing and drinking too much in the garage. Weird things start to happen. hahaha

:beer:

You guys probably dont know me but I work at the FourXDoctor in Burbank and let me just say that you are correct in the fact that the axle will wrap around the taction bar. For a track bar to work correctly it needs 2 fixed points on the axle and at 1 at the frame. Thats why 3 and 4 link systems work so well. They hold the axle in place front to back but also prevent it from rolling under the vehicle. As for limiting travel it will if it is not mounted in the correct position. ie distance from the axle mounting tto the frame mounting. Even the shackle type of traction by like the Sam's offroad makes can limit travel. believe me I know. i own a soa fj40 with a shackle style traction bar on. I'm using 3/4 rod ends on the bar itself and a 2" spring bushing on the frame mount and I'm still loosing about 11/2" of down travel because the shackle doesnt swing front to back on the same plane as the axle. best thing to do is cycle the suspension from full droop to full stuff and find a mounting point on the frame were the links wont want to move front to back. you can use a string line tied off to the axle mounting point and pinck a spot on the frame and go from there. And yes it's a pain in the asss but thats the best thing to do.

glo n dork ~ let me snap some pics of mine, you will like im sure! jIMMy

I use a design very similar to Woody's. It a good design that works well. I run a V8 with 35 inch tires and stock LC SOA with a couple of leafs short of a full pack.
I've had no wrap and no travel limitation.

BTW, Woody, your T-Case Saver is on it's way. Went out in the mail Friday afternoon.

I finally recieved the Dom tubing and will try to copy Woodys design for my wrap bar...I have almost the same set-up..ie FJ-55 springs and spring over..!..I hope it works!!..I have to wheel the Blazer tomorrow!!..I really wnt to run the FJ again!!!