I would like to run some Dana 44s under a spring over on my 78 CJ7, however I am worried about which Dana 44 to use do to the spring perches. Are there any Dana 44 axles that can be found fairly easily that do not need to be cut or narrowed (besides moving spring perches) that will fit under the CJ7 without moving the springs outboard of the frame. Every source that I have looked at says that on a CJ the springs need to be moved outboard the frame or the axles need to be narrowed on one side. Any info? I tried search.

narrow a Chevy 44 and call it a day!


:beer: :D :beer:

I have 44's under my 86. THe rear is factory, so no issues there. If you can find a wide-trac 44 (good luck) it's a bolt in.

My front was a Chevy 3/4 ton and it's a custom unit. I don't see any other way around it. EIther shorten a factory axle and relocate the perches or outboard your springs.

Maybe a Waggie 44 front??

too bad you aren't in colorado, cliff over at avalanche is trying to do a promo (free) install of his new full axle kit. you get a bolt on full axle kit, and i think it comes with a stinger bumper.

you need a shackle reversal or it will suck :skull:

For the front try and find an early bronco dana 44 front. I am in the process of installing one as we speak. The front 44 on a bronco has some radius arm brackets and bumpstops that need to be removed, but then weld on some spring perchs and your set, they are the perfect width and they are the same lug pattern too.

Originally posted by YJRockBuggy
For the front try and find an early bronco dana 44 front. I am in the process of installing one as we speak. The front 44 on a bronco has some radius arm brackets and bumpstops that need to be removed, but then weld on some spring perchs and your set, they are the perfect width and they are the same lug pattern too.

Um, cj-7s have passenger side diff. EB 44s have drivers side.

Just outboard the springs its not to tough, expecially if you planned to do a shackle reversal at the same time. The problem with narrowing say a chevy front axle is that most likely you will lose the ability to run junkyard spare axle shafts, which means you will need to have 2 sets of shafts narrowed which is gonna cost $$$.

Will a Scout Dana 44 work?

Originally posted by NE-RokToy
Just outboard the springs its not to tough, expecially if you planned to do a shackle reversal at the same time. The problem with narrowing say a chevy front axle is that most likely you will lose the ability to run junkyard spare axle shafts, which means you will need to have 2 sets of shafts narrowed which is gonna cost $$$.

I second the outboard. If you can't find the time or expertise to make the brackets. Matkins Extreme sells them for $155. You just have to weld on the holes and mounts are all ready set-up.

Originally posted by big4294x4
Will a Scout Dana 44 work?

If you outboard the springs or narrow it. While you're narrowing it rotate both knuckle to get some caster built in.

Thanks for the response. I was just hoping that I wouldn't have to spend the money on narrowing the axles or lose flex by making the springs outboard. What about a fullsize axle like a Dana 60. Is there any hope in finding one with a spring perch width that won't have to be modified.

Even with outboarded springs your not going to loose that much flex. Do some research on outboarded springs. Its been discussed here in detail one or two times..


And yes a Scout 44 will work in the fornt you just have to grind down the housing inorder to make a perch.

My buildup is trying to be as budjet minded as possible. I am a highschool student fulltime and have no job. How much would it be $$$ to narrow the Scout front end? How much would it be to have somebody change the caster angle on the axles or were they already spring over?

How much flex would I lose by moving the spring perches outside the frame?

Ok, my other option would be to go ahead and do the springover and swap in the rear Dana 44 (easy) and leave the Dana 30 up front until the end of the summer when I have some money. Would the Dana 30 ( not locked) have any hope in holding up to the 33" tires, 350 chevy, T150, Dana 20 that I have in there now if I really started to wheel it? I drive fairly agressively, but not to hard on the throttle. What about steering issues? Would having a wide axle in back and a narrow axle up front steer terribly?

Thanks for your time.

My buildup is trying to be as budjet minded as possible. I am a highschool student fulltime and have no job. How much would it be $$$ to narrow the Scout front end? How much would it be to have somebody change the caster angle on the axles or were they already spring over?

How much flex would I lose by moving the spring perches outside the frame?

Ok, my other option would be to go ahead and do the springover and swap in the rear Dana 44 (easy) and leave the Dana 30 up front until the end of the summer when I have some money. Would the Dana 30 ( not locked) :nuke: :nuke: :nuke: with the 33" tires, 350 chevy, T150, Dana 20 that I have in there now if I really started to wheel it? I drive fairly agressively, but not to hard on the throttle. What about steering issues? Would having a wide axle in back and a narrow axle up front steer terribly?

Thanks for your time.

Sorry about the double post. My computer decided to do some :rainbow: :rainbow: stuff on me + I am a fawkin newbie.:D

I've run a 30 in my 65 for a couple of years with a built 351w, first with a 3spd, then c-4. I never had a problem running 33" swampers. The key is to leave it open. I've had a couple of waggies 44 cut and resplined for $125. You only need to have one side cut if you are going to go with a "wide track" width. If you want to keep from having to grind alot off the center section you can put the perch next to the center section, and have it cut for the narrow track.

My 2 cents: I run spring over. The front is a Chevy housing narrowed to Scout Width. This way I get the spring over perch with inner shafts that are a "stock " width. I simply cut down the housing to match a Scout housing. I use the Chevy outer shafts with Chevy brakes, etc.

My rear is a Waggy 44. Both axles are six bolt so I'm matched on wheels. Yes, I had to outboard the front hangars. It's not a big deal to outboard....search the boards, plenty of pics, etc. out there. :smokin:

big 429 I just swapped axles in my 79 cj7 don't put scout 44's under there I did and had steering problems. Scouts are spring under and wen you change to a spring over your caster is in the positive. scouts have 0 caster to begin with and the pinion angle is almost flat. I had to pay somebody about 400 bones to change the caster and pinion angle for me on my scout axles. Outrigging off of you frame is very simple if you want to keep the width of you 44s. Find a late model wagoneer with 44's. 77 or a 78 they have flat top outer knuckles which some day you can change to high clearance steering AMUST doing i now befoer Easter fest in MOAB:D

Originally posted by big4294x4
My buildup is trying to be as budjet minded as possible. I am a highschool student fulltime and have no job. How much would it be $$$ to narrow the Scout front end? How much would it be to have somebody change the caster angle on the axles or were they already spring over?

How much flex would I lose by moving the spring perches outside the frame?

Ok, my other option would be to go ahead and do the springover and swap in the rear Dana 44 (easy) and leave the Dana 30 up front until the end of the summer when I have some money. Would the Dana 30 ( not locked) :nuke: :nuke: :nuke: with the 33" tires, 350 chevy, T150, Dana 20 that I have in there now if I really started to wheel it? I drive fairly agressively, but not to hard on the throttle. What about steering issues? Would having a wide axle in back and a narrow axle up front steer terribly?

Thanks for your time.
I've wheeled with a buddy of mine for years - he's got an early 80's CJ-7 with a 401, rear 20 with a Detroit (one piece axles), front 30 with an ARB and 37" swampers. The guy wheels pretty hard and has never busted either axle. He's not a throttle jockey, but he's launched that thing many times. The one thing he's careful not to do is stay on it when he starts to hop. And he carrys spares.

hey big4294x4 I think the 30 would be alright wil just 33's if you were easy on it but go with waggy axles if you got a YJ, Its cheap and way easy if you can weld, Im a poor college student so I know how you feel.:flipoff2: FAWKIN NEWBIE:flipoff2: :D

With that list of mods, if your poor, than I'm Ghandi.:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

i have a 30 up front and 20 rear. both are locked with 4.10's and 35" TSL's. I have only broken one inner shaft and that was my fault. i didnt know that they 20 year old u-joint broke and the tires were at full lock. well you can guess what happened when i gace it alot of throttle to get out of the situation.

with 33's i think you will have absolutely no problem

Keep the D30, it will not break easy, and if it ever does, then swap in the D44. I am a poor college student too, and I decided to run a small experiment on the D27 in my 66' Jeepster. I am running a 360 horse Chevy 327, T18, and D20 on 35" MTR's with the D27 front, and I have not broken it yet wheeling in the snow at full throttle. I have been trying to break it, I have a D44 for it, but no sucess yet.